What Did You Do To Your Busa, Today?

I bought is from a short guy probably 5"2" it feels lower than my 05 busa that I use to have i see the lowering links on the rear suspension Im 6 "3" 300lbs gotta loose some more weight, been watching Utube cutting windshields so I will see

I'de raise it up before trimming the windshield.
 
No, slide the forks down lower in them, where the forks should be for stock height.
Six, I think there is some confusion here. I lowered my bike for a few months and the MCs didn’t get any closer than they were at normal height. Remember that the top clamp is bolted to the frame’s neck, so it doesn’t move up or down as you lower the bike, only the forks move up. the busa doesn’t have Clipon style bars that mount directly to the fork tubes.
 
Six, I think there is some confusion here. I lowered my bike for a few months and the MCs didn’t get any closer than they were at normal height. Remember that the top clamp is bolted to the frame’s neck, so it doesn’t move up or down as you lower the bike, only the forks move up. the busa doesn’t have Clipon style bars that mount directly to the fork tubes.

Oh ****!
Yep, I got on that train of thought too late last night(at least that's my excuse).
Sorry for bad info.
Something isn't right though.
Which leads me back to aftermarket parts and/or bent fairing/windshield bracket.
As it doesn't appear to lack much clearance, but the windshield also doesn't look like a factory fit at the edges either.
 
Oh ****!
Yep, I got on that train of thought too late last night(at least that's my excuse).
Sorry for bad info.
Something isn't right though.
Which leads me back to aftermarket parts and/or bent fairing/windshield bracket.
As it doesn't appear to lack much clearance, but the windshield also doesn't look like a factory fit at the edges either.
There is definitely something going on there. My gen2 has the .75 spacers and helibars, per your recommendation years ago and the MCs clear by a few mills and the control housing on the clutch side, barely touches the dash panel.
 
There is definitely something going on there. My gen2 has the .75 spacers and helibars, per your recommendation years ago and the MCs clear by a few mills and the control housing on the clutch side, barely touches the dash panel.
All fairing brackets are not equal. Could be something like a drop or minor hit on them but they do move around. Not really a fine measurement issue IMO. I'm not sure they are all straight from the factory.
 
Oh ****!
Yep, I got on that train of thought too late last night(at least that's my excuse).
Sorry for bad info.
Something isn't right though.
Which leads me back to aftermarket parts and/or bent fairing/windshield bracket.
As it doesn't appear to lack much clearance, but the windshield also doesn't look like a factory fit at the edges either.

Im just going to get my mechanic to trim windshield and put the helibars on in a month or 2 pay him to have the headache of messing with it
 
This is what I did to my busa today had my mechanic put on new rotors and EBC double H pads frony rotors have titanium blue bolts looks better than it was Question, fellas how long will it take for my breaks to seat ??? Thanks in advance

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This is what I did to my busa today had my mechanic put on new rotors and EBC double H pads frony rotors have titanium blue bolts looks better than it was Question, fellas how long will it take for my breaks to seat ??? Thanks in advance

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You need to do at least 3 hard stops from 60+mph.
The heat from that will help embed pad material into the rotor. As pad material sticks to itself better than it does to the rotor.
 
This is what I did to my busa today had my mechanic put on new rotors and EBC double H pads frony rotors have titanium blue bolts looks better than it was Question, fellas how long will it take for my breaks to seat ??? Thanks in advance

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I will be glad when these brakes and rotors seat. Pulsating break lever after they heat up they feel ok only put 20 miles on it so far look at that break dust gotta clean it today
 
I will be glad when these brakes and rotors seat. Pulsating break lever after they heat up they feel ok only put 20 miles on it so far look at that break dust gotta clean it today

They shouldn't be pulsating, at all.
I would check and see if you have a bent rotor.
 
I will be glad when these brakes and rotors seat. Pulsating break lever after they heat up they feel ok only put 20 miles on it so far look at that break dust gotta clean it today
Take it back to the mechanic that fitted the new rotors, tell him the brakes are pulsating thru the lever, get him to test ride it and ask him to measure the rotor run-out with a Dial Idindicator, he may very well have incorrectly installed the rotors or the one of the rotors may have already had an issue when manufactured, or damaged in transit.
Whenever I install rotors I always clean and prepare contacting surfaces, torque the mounting bolts evenly in a criss-cross pattern, and then finally measure for run-out BEFORE the wheel is re-fitted to the bike.
 
Should I clean that brown build up on the rotors from the break pads

BrakeClean is great for pads and rotors, and I use it on both for new installs and maintenance. It gets off any grease or oil.
But as Kiwi said, sounds like a rotor was manufactured incorrectly, or was damaged during shipping or installation.
One or both is bent, or possibly but unlikely seated incorrectly.
 
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