Hayabusa gen 1 1300 GSXR stottering bad throttle response misfiring only under load or half throttle

iceantz

Registered
Hello hayabusa community,

Sorry for my english but i am from germany and try my best.

I have a problem with my hayabusa gen 1 engine which is fitted in a desert buggy.
we got it from a friend. It was build by an american company and everything worked perfekt. The buggy stood 5 years outdoor in the sun of dubai.

now we are trying to fix it.

We did oil change, cleaning injectors, new spark plugs, new fuel pump, filters..., new ignition coils.

The engine sounds really good. In idle and if we rev it in neutral everything works fine. We tested it several times and noticed, that it runs bad under load. It sounds like the engine swallow/stottering. We changed the ignition coils and sparkplugs an tested it in the desert. It was working fine for maybe 5 minutes. After that we had the same problem.

We thought maybe its a problem with the alternator or the rectifier. Maybe too less voltage for higher rpm under load...
We notices that the alternator was not working before, because the batterie got really low. We checked while engine was running and got only 11,6v.
Strangely the next day everything was fine again....
I checked the resistance of the 3 yellow cables coming from the alterantor. 2 were good around 0.2 ohm but the last one got 0,9 ohm. But all cable brought enough voltage... more than 65v at higher rpm.
Also the voltage at the batterie was good. around 14v without consumer.

We did not know further.

From despair we adjust the 3 screws direct at the throttle valves.... no success. the screws are a bit rusty and everthing looks a bit old....
Maybe now it is even worse. Now we dont have throttle response after half throttle.

So we are clueless. What elso could clear our problem?

For me it sounds like a fuel problem. But it worked for 5 minutes.... and we changed all filters, the pump and cleaned the injectors.

Could be the ignition the Problem? or a bad cleaning of the injectors? Or is it afterall still the alternator? Maybe also a heat Problem? Fan is working well, but the temperature gauge is not working.

What is about the valves? I dont know the milage of the engine, but probably not much. do we need to adjust the valves?

Tomorow i can upload some pictires or videos if you need.


I hope someone can help us and give us a good hint to solve the problem.


Thankyou.
 
Probably best to speak to Frank from Berlin, he’s a very experienced Busa Technician and is very helpful too… plus you have your language in common which helps.
His name here is @Berlin Germany
He will probably contact you direct by private message or you could do the same.
All the best from Kiwi!
 
You need to test the alternator stator output at the 3 yellow wires, should be each 20v AC at idle and 60 to 80 vAC at 5000rpm
 
Sorry for my english but i am from germany and try my best.

Your English is quite good. Compared to my German, your English is expert.

We notices that the alternator was not working before, because the batterie got really low. We checked while engine was running and got only 11,6v.
Strangely the next day everything was fine again....

A short may appear in the stator coils when hot but magically heal when cooler. Because of this the voltage and impedance tests may only be meaningful when the engine has run a lot and these parts are roasting hot. The rectifier and stator are still highly suspect as problems. Any out-of spec measurement according to the service manual is proof of failure, even if the next day the same test is good.
 
Your English is quite good. Compared to my German, your English is expert.



A short may appear in the stator coils when hot but magically heal when cooler. Because of this the voltage and impedance tests may only be meaningful when the engine has run a lot and these parts are roasting hot. The rectifier and stator are still highly suspect as problems. Any out-of spec measurement according to the service manual is proof of failure, even if the next day the same test is good.
Thank you.
This i also thought....
Its not working now, but the alternator brings enough voltage. So could not be the problem. Also tested direct after the start and in hot conditions...
I might measure again
 
A short may appear in the stator coils when hot but magically heal when cooler.

that magic :lol: is simply caused by physics

material that warms up expands and by that a wire in the generator opens a gate so no voltage can flow

when mat is "could" again the gap in the wire closes again because the mat shrinks back and volts are running again.

same effect you can find at ign. coils etc.
 
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