Would you dare use car oil in your brand new bike?

^^Ya, but this is jus for storage over winter and then it gets dumped. I plan to fill it to the top to eliminate any chance of rust in there. I just can't bring myself to throw away all that expensive motorcycle oil. I bet it will be almost 2 gallons.
 
All I use is car oil. Brocks recomends mobil1 5-30 for clutch life. So I use it and have gotten over 200 passes out of the stock clutch, which is good for a 230+lb drag racer:beerchug: I have done this with my past 4 bikes and have never had an issue
 
All I use is car oil. Brocks recomends mobil1 5-30 for clutch life. So I use it and have gotten over 200 passes out of the stock clutch, which is good for a 230+lb drag racer:beerchug: I have done this with my past 4 bikes and have never had an issue

Nice.
 
I have never heard of engine failure due to oil type or brand. It's all good.:thumbsup:
 
Not this subject again..

Just use OIL and make sure it has no friction modifiers. It doesn't matter if it has a picture of a motorcycle or car on the container..
 
You will.
Not if you just use the car oil for storage and replace it when you ride. I used the cheapest car oil I could find for winter storage once. Drained it and put Rotella T6 (diesel engine oil) in when the riding season started. No problems. I don't think it hurts the oil to let it sit in the bike for eight months so I just change it before I store it and run that oil for 2500 or until it's time to store again. Rotella T6 5W-40 costs about the same as conventional motorcycle oil. I don't think the shift quality lasts any longerbut it;s synthetic so I use it over the Kaw or Suz oil. No problems yet.

This thread made me hungry for popcorn. Glad I had some.:popcorn:
 
It's kind of cool to have my old threads dragged up again. I didn't know how to watch them when I was a new member. Now I have them watched. Thanks! :)
 
I was concerned about that too but it was fine. I probably checked that the oil I used didn't have friction modifiers though.
 
Pretty old thread resurrection....worthy of 'ol @RedBull himself....

Oil thread like the tire threads, chain threads, sprocket threads, politics threads always leads to several opinions.
 

Rotella T6 5W-40 16 years ,
original clutch plates
and 100 thou km .



No problems yet !


Laugh Out Loud .


cheers
ken




:lol:
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Rotella-T? | General Bike Related Topics
 
is the JASO thing all bullshit? can we run whatever?
No I don't think the JASO rating is BS. I wouldn't run any oil in my busa without it. Any oil should be ok in the motor if you're just letting the bike sit and then you dump it before you operate the bike but I have heard the JASO rating is required for a clutch that is imersed in oil as the Hayabusa clutch is. The plates might slip if the oil isn't JASO rated. That problem might reverse as soon as you switch back to a JASO oil but clutch plates are a lot of work to replace if the problem doesn't reverse. If your storing for 8 months, I don't think it makes a bit of difference if the proper oil is stored in the bike or if it's in the jug. As long as the bike doesn't run while stored, that fresh oil should last just as long as if you just poured it in on the first day of the riding season. If you're storing for ten years, might as well go with good oil for that too. It's ten years, saving a few bucks won't matter and who knows, it might soak into the clutch fibers so much it might be hard to get out. Why risk it?
 
No I don't think the JASO rating is BS. I wouldn't run any oil in my busa without it. Any oil should be ok in the motor if you're just letting the bike sit and then you dump it before you operate the bike but I have heard the JASO rating is required for a clutch that is imersed in oil as the Hayabusa clutch is. The plates might slip if the oil isn't JASO rated. That problem might reverse as soon as you switch back to a JASO oil but clutch plates are a lot of work to replace if the problem doesn't reverse. If your storing for 8 months, I don't think it makes a bit of difference if the proper oil is stored in the bike or if it's in the jug. As long as the bike doesn't run while stored, that fresh oil should last just as long as if you just poured it in on the first day of the riding season. If you're storing for ten years, might as well go with good oil for that too. It's ten years, saving a few bucks won't matter and who knows, it might soak into the clutch fibers so much it might be hard to get out. Why risk it?
Unless you park you Busa laying on its side the clutch is definitely not soaking in oil all winter. The clutch is actually quite dry unless the engine is running to slop oil up there. Even then, if the clutch isn't pulled it is pretty tough for anything to get in there. Clutch fibers are quite dry when you pull them out normally. If you have a bike with a weaker clutch that doesn't like some of the automotive oil you can switch back and the clutch will recover. I like to change the oil in the spring in case there was any condensation in the motor over the winter. Warm it up, drain the oil. Fill with fresh. If you sleep better with motorcycle-specific oil it is certainly worth the price though.
 
I posted a thread ~7months ago asking for opinions of maufacturer suggested break in vs a more severe break in and i got a lot of good opinions. I've decided I'm going with a high rpm WOT breakin similar to what "Moto Man" recommends for dyno break in.

"How To Break In Your Engine For More Power & Less Wear!
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power"
(^^^I'd post the link but I don't know how to do that yet)


Does anyone know why this guy is recomending using Valvoline or Halvoline 10W-40 car oil for the first 500 miles and then switching to conventional motorcycle oil? The only advantage i can see is that car oil would be a lot cheaper if you are going to be changing frequently. Other than that, using car oil seems a little risky for use in a motorcycle.
My dad put car oil in my 82 Yamaha xj750 and the clutch started slipping on hard acceleration, I changed the oil to motorcycle oil and it's much better now. Idk if that helps but everything I've read on forums from people who actually use car oil says it doesn't hurt anything. I guess you could try it and if it sucks switch the oil type when you do an oil change.
 
No I don't think the JASO rating is BS. I wouldn't run any oil in my busa without it. Any oil should be ok in the motor if you're just letting the bike sit and then you dump it before you operate the bike but I have heard the JASO rating is required for a clutch that is imersed in oil as the Hayabusa clutch is. The plates might slip if the oil isn't JASO rated. That problem might reverse as soon as you switch back to a JASO oil but clutch plates are a lot of work to replace if the problem doesn't reverse. If your storing for 8 months, I don't think it makes a bit of difference if the proper oil is stored in the bike or if it's in the jug. As long as the bike doesn't run while stored, that fresh oil should last just as long as if you just poured it in on the first day of the riding season. If you're storing for ten years, might as well go with good oil for that too. It's ten years, saving a few bucks won't matter and who knows, it might soak into the clutch fibers so much it might be hard to get out. Why risk it?
That's a good point, it could soak in
 
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