When/how often to change oil on a new engine?

[Mythos]

???I can almost swear I've heard this hard break in theory since i owned my first bike in the 6th grade. That was back in the late 70s. The idea isn't new but for some reason, the proof, if it exists, is not widely shared. Only evidence I've seen is Moto Man's Piston Graveyard which I'm sure many of you have seen on the infamous web page. I wouldn't call that alone proof or even hard evidence but I hear too many experienced racers supporting the notion of breaking in hard for it to be a fantasy. True, you may void your warranty but maintaining your warranty is the only reason I have ever heard anyone give for going with a manufacturer break in.

I have nothing against playing it safe. That is the thing to do, always, when you don't know what you should do. I have asked a lot of questions about this and listened to a lot of advice and when I got on my new bike, it didn't feel wrong to make it work hard-- so that's what I did. I will never know what effect, if any, doing a manufacturer siggested break in would have had but I did it the way it felt right to me. I guess that's what I was doing when I broke the 14 in. I went gentle as can be on it and I'm happy with it.

 

[BA BUSA]

Okay, I would like to see this proof that you speak of.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

[BA BUSA]

Break it in HARD

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

[Cookie]

I even broke my little EG Si hatch in hard. Always ran fast and loose.

 

[BA BUSA]

On my Gen2...I went out and ran it pretty hard in the twisties for about 80 miles just like I would normally ride...then dumped the oil. At 600 I dumped it again and put on a new filter too...@2,800 another oil change + filter and full synthetic oil

 

[Cookie]

Wow. No kidding?? You waiting until 2800 miles? Dropped and synthe at 999.9 for me.

 

[BA BUSA]

Wow. No kidding?? You waiting until 2800 miles? Dropped and synthe at 999.9 for me.

I flew to North Carolina for the '08 Spring Bash...picked up the bike on a Monday morning and spent the week at the Gap. Left there on Sunday with about 1,295 on the bike. It had the oil dumped twice, did the 600 service there...Tuesday I was in New Mexico at Wag's house with almost 2,900. He has a bike lift in the garage...so I threw on a new rear tire, did another oil change + filter and Mobil 1 4T Racing

Hit the road @ 5am Wensday for SoCal...did three days down there with the local boys and then headed home for NorCal...15 days straight for a total of 5,130 miles

 

[Cookie]

Wow,, a road trip. I need one of those. Maybe next year,,, I join you cross country!

 

[BA BUSA]

Good times...it sure was FUN!!!

 

[Mythos]

At the 750 oil change, there was little if any particles on the magnetic drain plug. That caused me to go to synthetic sooner than 3K which is when I historically switch.

You mean to tell me we have a magnetic drain plug? There's one more cool thing! I was wondering what that black nob on the end of the plug was. I just wiped it off without looking at it. The oil itself did not look real healthy after only 20 miles. It was transparen but it was dark and there was a bit of a film of mucky looking stuff floating on top. I don't know how normal that is. I've never changed oil in anything after 20 miles.

There were some metal flecks in the bottom of the pan after I emptied it. Not very much but there were some in there.

 

[TDI2Fan]

I certainly cannot speak for EVERYONE but my Gen II has one. I am a big fan of magnetic drain plugs. Have one in every engine I have that I can get one for. Bear in mind that not ALL particles can be magnetized, so it only picks up some of the metal particles floating in the oil.

 

[Mythos]

The magnetic drain plug on your G2 is the stock plug, right?

 

[Hobo]

Everyone has differing opinions on this subject & I've had many disscussions/arguements on the topic. But this is what I do & believe at this point of my life.
First, I never use full synthetic oil, only mineral or semi, I've been told by an engine builder it tends to glug up on the inside of the engine walls.
I ran my last 09' busa in easy straight flat road riding for the 1st 400kms no load on the engine, it later developed power delivery inconsistancies.
My local dyno guy said run it on the dyno, or do a track day (neither of these I agree with). When the engines blows Suzuki will want to analyse my ECU for over revving & I'm screwed. I used to think running the revs up higher than recommended was good for running it in hard but now I run for about 100kms then slowly increase the load on the engine by increasing riding up steeper and steeper hills & eventually (bout 500kms) getting the fattest chic you know to get on the back and increase the incline of the hills, so the piston & rings push up hard against the cylinder walls. This should reduce the amount of oil the engine consumes later ! Just my 0.02c

 

[Mythos]

now I run for about 100kms then slowly increase the load on the engine by increasing riding up steeper and steeper hills & eventually (bout 500kms) getting the fattest chic you know to get on the back and increase the incline of the hills, so the piston & rings push up hard against the cylinder walls.

They would never suspect I was hitting them up to help break my bike in.

 

[TDI2Fan]

The magnetic drain plug on your G2 is the stock plug, right?

Yes, all stock

 

[Tinman's Busa]

I did a manufacturer's suggested break in on my 14. I waited to 500 before changing oil for the fist time. Saw a lot of shimmering metal filings in the bottom of the drain pan. Second change same thing. 12,000 miles later, good performance, no leaks but it does burn a little oil (or at least it does something with it- I have to add 200ml every thousand miles).

I would like to do a WOT 11,000 rpm ring seating on the busa after a thorough warm up and then change the oil at ~20-30 miles. The people at the dealership are telling me to leave the oil in at least 250 miles because the friction caused by microscopic metal shavings will help my engine ware in. My feeling is there is going to be a hell of a lot more metal floating doing the max rpm ring seal than there would with a gentle break in.

Do you think changing oil too soon or too often when the bike is new is bad for the engine?

LOL The guys who built your bike is telling you how to brake it in. Why would you even doubt it?? The manual is the bible and if anyone says don't believe your manual they need their head examined.

 

[Tinman's Busa]

I would not go WOT at only 30 miles. Gradually work you rway up and down rpm range. Shut down, let it cool down and then do it again. My first Busa. Did this for first 100 miles and then rode normal for 100 miles then at 200 miles slowly pulled to redline and slowly back down couple times and let her cool down. Sold the bike with 25K miles and didnt burn any oil between changes at 4K mile intervals. Current bike nearing 12K miles. Little less aggressive break in but same idea letting it cool down between rpm pulls - no oil useage at all between 3K mile changes. All my bikes have been like this - even my zx12. So its not a brand thing.

I'd hate to tell ya. There is no right way or wrong way to break in your engine. There are test results done where 2 brand new bikes were purchased and one was broken in very carefully. Rev low then High then low then high and hard and one almost redline through every gear for 500 miles on each. The oil was drained and examined at a lab for shavings and the engine was stripped completely apart to examine everything for damages. Guess what?? They both showed the enact same ware for both engines. If you are uncertain just read your manual and do exactly what it recommends.

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

I'd hate to tell ya. There is no right way or wrong way to break in your engine. There are test results done where 2 brand new bikes were purchased and one was broken in very carefully. Rev low then High then low then high and hard and one almost redline through every gear for 500 miles on each. The oil was drained and examined at a lab for shavings and the engine was stripped completely apart to examine everything for damages. Guess what?? They both showed the enact same ware for both engines. If you are uncertain just read your manual and do exactly what it recommends.

Your post makes no sense. You first say there’s no right way or wrong way to break in an engine and then you say to do exactly what the manual recommends. If there’s no right way or wrong way....WTH?

 

[JeffSyh]

This post is from 2009 I'm confused.

 

[Mythos]

LOL The guys who built your bike is telling you how to brake it in. Why would you even doubt it?? The manual is the bible and if anyone says don't believe your manual they need their head examined.

Because they probably don't race and even if they do, their bosses probably won't let them suggest I redline my busa in any gear for legal reasons.

Twelve years later and 16,000 miles I'll be doing a compression test this summer. If it looks good (and I have no reason to suspect it won't), I'll do another redline break in on any new bike I get in the future.

This post is from 2009 I'm confused.

It's my post. It's a great one. Glad it was dragged up, for the longest time, I've been thinking I bought the 08 busa in 2010. One of the last brand new 08 Black/Oranges to be had.