Would you dare use car oil in your brand new bike?

Been running car Mobil for years in my Busa. And I hammer it!

Where's my popcorn! :popcorn:

Me too, +1 on the car mobil.

The important question is, what do you put on your popcorn? I think melted butter is for old school losers. Myself I like cajun spice and olive oil.

cheers
ken
 
i made 461 hp / 280 ft*lbs (and others have made hundreds more than me) using Mobil 1 synthetic CAR oil.

+1

I tried the fancy race oil and didn't notice a bit of difference.

MOBIL 1 is all I've run before that and since then.... :beerchug:
 
Broke mine in on Quaker State 10w40 dino car oil(non-energy conserving) as per Brocks' instructions then switched to synthetic Redline 10w40 Motorcycle oil at 2000 miles.

Ya ever had jalopena popcorn? Good $hit! :rofl:
 
Just follow the motoman directions. Don't go longer than 7,000 miles on any oil and you'll be fine.
 
:thumbsup:

Maxima530RROil.JPG
 
Me too, +1 on the car mobil.

The important question is, what do you put on your popcorn? I think melted butter is for old school losers. Myself I like cajun spice and olive oil.

cheers
ken

Thanks Ken! I love Kettle Corn. I just can never find a decent load of it! Mmm yeah,, good stuff! :thumbsup:

But,, regular,,, just a ton of butter, come salt and maybe some of that cheese. Cajun,, yeah,, i'd go with that!
 
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There is no such thing as "motorcycle" oil or "car" oil. Marketing bastids would like you to believe that, though. If you really must insist on handing your money over to them, though, knock yourself out. :laugh: !!!

Pennzoil 10-40 in the gallon size has worked for me for 60,000 miles.

That isn't to say there is no difference oil to oil. Synthetics will make it shift a tad more smoothly but in my own never-to-be-humble opinion, it's not enough of a difference to matter for as much money as you have to spend for it.

ABSOLUTE MUSTS:

The only things that are critical are:

1. Change the oil every 3,000 miles like clockwork. No further discussion need be had!
2. Make sure the oil you get has no friction modifiers in it.

Oh, just an addendum to 1, change the filter on every oil change. And that little drain plug washer, too! :;):

--Wag--
 
Wag wrote:

Synthetics will make it shift a tad more smoothly

I tried full synthetic in my 14 once and the smooth lasted about 500 miles. Same as dino after that. Might try a dif brand of synthetic some time.
 
Pretty much all done with the break in. I used Spectro 4 with blue cap which is a 100% conventional motorcycle oil and it was not cheap. I changed 3 times in 1000 miles. Now i need to store and i want to go cheap so car oil is the way. Here's the question:

How do we know for sure a car oil we select for our motorcycle does not contain friction modifiers?
 
Pretty much all done with the break in. I used Spectro 4 with blue cap which is a 100% conventional motorcycle oil and it was not cheap. I changed 3 times in 1000 miles. Now i need to store and i want to go cheap so car oil is the way. Here's the question:

How do we know for sure a car oil we select for our motorcycle does not contain friction modifiers?

Read the API crescent seal on the bottle.

I don't know what the gen2 uses but if it's still 10W40 you shouldn't have to worry about it. I have never seen a 40 weight oil that is energy conserving.

Personally I used to use Mobile 1 synthetic car oil but for the last two years I haven't been able to find it in 10W40. Been using Shell Rotella T Synthetic in 5W40 since. Great stuff for bikes but if the gen2 has catalysts in the exhaust that may open a whole new can 'o worms during the long run. :whistle:
 
^^^Thanks. I will check for an API crescent seal. I don't want to go to synthetic for a while. I should be able to find a 10W-40 conventional car oil without FMs.
 
A lot of guys run the synthetic Shell Rotella from Walmart. You can get it in the gallon jugs at a very good price. I use Amsoil motorcycle oil. Shell states the synthetic Rotella is fine for motorcycles. If you change your oil often, it is probably the cheapest way to go.
 
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