What Did You Do To Your Busa, Today?

Hey Greg,
No one touches my baby, so it was torqued by me to 72.5lbs of torque. I’ve been scratching my head for the past few days wondering what went wrong. I got a few turns out of it and was able to slide the wheel forward to remove the chain from the sprocket and then get a cut off wheel between the washer and nut to cut the axle off. At least I can’t be mad at a shop, since I do all the work myself. Lol!
I have considered welding a nut at the end of axle and trying to en screw the nut through the cut off end to inspect the threads on it and the part of the axle under it just out of curiosity, but maybe I’ll just hang it on my toolbox lid as a reminder a reminder of my struggles.
Hey Miguel.. who torqued that axle nut up last time?
If it was over torqued last time, it could be that the thread was stretched and damaged causing the problem you just had with it.
Just a thought.
Hope you get it all sorted soon mate.
 
Hey Greg,
No one touches my baby, so it was torqued by me to 72.5lbs of torque. I’ve been scratching my head for the past few days wondering what went wrong. I got a few turns out of it and was able to slide the wheel forward to remove the chain from the sprocket and then get a cut off wheel between the washer and nut to cut the axle off. At least I can’t be mad at a shop, since I do all the work myself. Lol!
I have considered welding a nut at the end of axle and trying to en screw the nut through the cut off end to inspect the threads on it and the part of the axle under it just out of curiosity, but maybe I’ll just hang it on my toolbox lid as a reminder a reminder of my struggles.
only thing I think of was maybe your torque wrench is out of calibration and you are actually stretching it without knowing it . . you could get the T wrench calibration checked and recalibrated if necessary . . i dunno, sometimes we can over think things, but the reason it happened may be a tough one to pin down.
Glad you have it under control my friend., nice to see you out riding again too!
I've just come back from a 220 km ride with 4 other guys, we had a blast, stopped at a pub and had a meal etc, GOOD TIMES!!
 
only thing I think of was maybe your torque wrench is out of calibration and you are actually stretching it without knowing it . . you could get the T wrench calibration checked and recalibrated if necessary . . i dunno, sometimes we can over think things, but the reason it happened may be a tough one to pin down.
Glad you have it under control my friend., nice to see you out riding again too!
I've just come back from a 220 km ride with 4 other guys, we had a blast, stopped at a pub and had a meal etc, GOOD TIMES!!
That’s something I’ll have to look into and see if my torque wrench is in calibration. As for riding, I took the DR650 out the other day and then rode the concours14 to meet @c10 when he was in the area. Looking forward to putting some miles on the busa before love bugs and rain ruin riding in the sunshine state. She should be back together by Tuesday.
 
While I had the rear wheel off waiting on parts to arrive, checked my tires and my rear didn’t have much life left and the manufacturing year was 2013! Got a set of PR2s since the price was right and some forum research shows that they are good for @WuzzaCBXRider up in the mountains so they should be good for me in flat land. She is all back together with new sprockets, chain, tires, and all fresh fluids. I have to say I enjoy wrenching on this thing, as much as, riding it.
Oh, checked my torque wrench @Kiwi Rider and is calibrated or at least very close, so doesn’t look like that caused the problem.

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I have a love / hate with my o.c.d. It makes projects take longer but they are always done right or "over done" right. Previous owner did more damage than I knew, so when I was prepping for paint I opened up a can of works picking at their "fixes". A bunch of plastic weld and filler later, bike will be as good as new.
 
I finally got some new rotors and pads today to help my brakes improve.
The rotors I'm replacing are 90,000kms old and worn to 4.2mm, min thickness is 4.5mm. they are no longer flat and the pads are at the end of their life too (50,000km).
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The rotor bolts were loctited and were a PITA to remove..took ages.

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Look at how filthy the lower fork legs are . . 25,000kms since Ive had the mudguard removed lol

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That's my Nissin radial M/Cyl from a GSXR1000K7... fit's nicely, no clearance issues at all.

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That's a very tidy '82 XR200 that I'm sorting for a friend, it starts, runs for 5 mins and dies, cools off then will start again and die, repeatedly.
I reckon I know the cause, anyone here got any ideas? pretty simple really . . .
 
That's a very tidy '82 XR200 that I'm sorting for a friend, it starts, runs for 5 mins and dies, cools off then will start again and die, repeatedly.
I reckon I know the cause, anyone here got any ideas? pretty simple really . . .

If it stalled more quickly like in thirty seconds I would wonder about a broken choke or carb cleaning. It sounds like it is directly related to heat. Is the mileage right for a piston? Or is the ignition cutting off?
 
I finally got some new rotors and pads today to help my brakes improve.
The rotors I'm replacing are 90,000kms old and worn to 4.2mm, min thickness is 4.5mm. they are no longer flat and the pads are at the end of their life too (50,000km).
View attachment 1650747
The rotor bolts were loctited and were a PITA to remove..took ages.

View attachment 1650748
Look at how filthy the lower fork legs are . . 25,000kms since Ive had the mudguard removed lol

View attachment 1650749
That's my Nissin radial M/Cyl from a GSXR1000K7... fit's nicely, no clearance issues at all.

View attachment 1650750
That's a very tidy '82 XR200 that I'm sorting for a friend, it starts, runs for 5 mins and dies, cools off then will start again and die, repeatedly.
I reckon I know the cause, anyone here got any ideas? pretty simple really . . .

Sounds electrical, the recitfier/regulator, or the primative 'cdi'.
 
Replaced the front brake pads, the cush drive and ordered a rear rotor before I swap the pads because I realized mine is shot. Previous owner recently replaced the pads but not the rotor so it cut grooves in the new pads.
 
I did a crazy experiment with my old white bagster tank cover. Prepped it really well and sprayed with a spray can of the OEM gray paint on my bike. Curious to see how long this will last in the Florida head and inner legs friction. I was really bored and wanted to spend some time in the garage. Need to do something with the blue stripes.

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I finally got some new rotors and pads today to help my brakes improve.
The rotors I'm replacing are 90,000kms old and worn to 4.2mm, min thickness is 4.5mm. they are no longer flat and the pads are at the end of their life too (50,000km).
View attachment 1650747
The rotor bolts were loctited and were a PITA to remove..took ages.

View attachment 1650748
Look at how filthy the lower fork legs are . . 25,000kms since Ive had the mudguard removed lol

View attachment 1650749
That's my Nissin radial M/Cyl from a GSXR1000K7... fit's nicely, no clearance issues at all.

View attachment 1650750
That's a very tidy '82 XR200 that I'm sorting for a friend, it starts, runs for 5 mins and dies, cools off then will start again and die, repeatedly.
I reckon I know the cause, anyone here got any ideas? pretty simple really . . .
Coil?? Also just went thru a similar issue on my sons 300ex quad and of course went after the coil only to find it was fine. After a minute of scratching my head I checked the carb bowl for fuel and had none, turned out the vent in the fuel cap had rusted up and was vapor locking. Luckily was able to supersets the 2 pieces and punch a hole in it to finish the day off riding.

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