Not sure either yet built motor with nitrous or turbo???

[Destin07]

motor= aggressive build to make a true 220HP, wear out valve train, gotta have a good 1K exhaust, aftermaket filter ect.

Turbo= pick up a stage 1 from RCC, get Greg Smith ECU flasher, stud it and replace the titanium valves and you can have a very reliable adjustable 200HP-300HP non intercooled streetbike. If you don't do WOT runs on it and keep up your maintenance it might go 30K miles or more. I doubt you will find a true 220RWHP 1441 last that long

 

[R1000]

Agree, except for the need for IC, I wouldn't like to leave the scene when WOT runs are needed. Heat-soaking in turbo applications is a big issue, and the cost for a good IC is small in the total picture.

 

[24eclipse]

ok well how about this is a 1gen busa exhaust port the same as a 2gen?

then i was thinking if im going to run lets say 8 psi of boost. i will doo some head porting and some biiigger cams and valves.

then have u guys ever seen sound performances new thing with running open exhaust as soon as it hits boost? i was thinking of add that too.
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[Bird Hunter]

just like it says up top. I'm not to sure which one to go with. so i need a lil help.

i do alot of different riding and have to motos and might be adding another to my fleet. so the 08 busa would be more used for street and strip raccing. the mods i have right now is 4 to 5 inche stretch and the clutch mod.

so please post what you think and pics too please.

I would go turbo..


PLEASE invest in a leather 1 or 2 piece suit, and some good high top boots.. Going that fast, especially on a hot sticky track will tear you to pieces if something goes wrong..lease: Don't take it wrong, I'm just tryin' to look out for you. We had a guy get off at my local track right off the line, and he was peeled up pretty bad even with leathers on. The track was just grabbing and peeling his leathers off as he tumbled. I can only imagine what he would have looked like without them...

 

[24eclipse]

ooo yeah i have leathers on the way and boots too. the piic i posted was my fiirst time ever at the track and beiing liike 89 out and humid. ha ha my fiirst pass ever i ran a nice slow pass of 11 flat @ 135mph. ha ha iill admt i sucked. next month m gettiing fitted for a leather suite. also before summer i need to pick up a trailor too.
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[Destin07]

Agree, except for the need for IC, I wouldn't like to leave the scene when WOT runs are needed. Heat-soaking in turbo applications is a big issue, and the cost for a good IC is small in the total picture.

I'm all for intercoolers also .....but 8lb-12lb boost WOT for burst is fine but i wouldn't do it myself

 

[Destin07]

ok well how about this is a 1gen busa exhaust port the same as a 2gen?

then i was thinking if im going to run lets say 8 psi of boost. i will doo some head porting and some biiigger cams and valves.

then have u guys ever seen sound performances new thing with running open exhaust as soon as it hits boost? i was thinking of add that too.
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I have no idea what your talking about "have u guys ever seen sound performances new thing with running open exhaust as soon as it hits boost" Maybe your referring to a dump pipe?? Yes the Gen 2 heads flow better than Gen 1 heads. Head porting your talking 1500+, then cams 800+, then misc head parts valves prob another $400... So you just spent $2700 when you could take that and invest in a used A/A intercooler, and a set up aftermarket rods and other goodies and make 300+HP on pump gas. The stock heads and cams can go past 600HP so why replace them unless your trying to make maxium Hp on pump gas in which you would need a RCC ultra plenum. Hell if you just wanted the ability to run 300HP on pump gas and run it WOT then you prob could skimp on the rods and just do the A/A intercooler. You first should decide how much HP you really want and then how your gonna to use it. WOT runs without intercooling and you will be buying new stuff very often

 

[24eclipse]

they call it a sp exhaust cutout(boost activated) so u can run a full exhaust then under wot wiith full boost iit will go open exhaust after the turbo, so you can be quiiet cruising.
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[24eclipse]

what i was woundering with the exhaust was it the exhaust manifold are enterchangable between the gens? cause ii can get a use 1gen turbo exhaust manifold and compontents for kinda cheep and just get a new turbo.
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[Destin07]

what i was woundering with the exhaust was it the exhaust manifold are enterchangable between the gens? cause ii can get a use 1gen turbo exhaust manifold and compontents for kinda cheep and just get a new turbo.
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you would have to check with turbo kit makers but I think they are mostly the same...not sure though. I know the throttle bodies spacing is different. You would be suprised how quite dump pipes are. They are loud idling but not as loud as a N/A bike with full exhaust

 

[Bird Hunter]

you would have to check with turbo kit makers but I think they are mostly the same...not sure though. I know the throttle bodies spacing is different. You would be suprised how quite dump pipes are. They are loud idling but not as loud as a N/A bike with full exhaust

 

[Destin07]

yeah not many people realize that....I had a guy do a fly by on my turbo busa in 6th gear and a GSXR 1000 with a full exhaust was louder. the actual air my bike was pushing and the turbo spooling was mostly what you could hear

 

[Bird Hunter]

yeah not many people realize that....I had a guy do a fly by on my turbo busa in 6th gear and a GSXR 1000 with a full exhaust was louder. the actual air my bike was pushing and the turbo spooling was mostly what you could hear

There is a guy at our local track with a turbo busa. I could not believe how quiet it is, even standing on the exhaust side at the tree.. My bike with the AH setup is waaaaay louder...

 

[sean06]

yep the turbo quites the exhaust down quite a bit, its really just a high hp producing muffler

 

[Draco1340]

For a "street bike" , getting a 300+ HP Turbo down the track can be expensive and take a lot of development time. There are a lot of hidden cost such as a variable boost controller. Getting it controllable in first gear so that you can come out WOT and not kill yourself is the trick. If you go turbo, make sure you know someone that can walk you through this stuff.
The advantage of dry nitrous is cost. I think you can go just as fast for a WHOLE lot less money. Look at Real Street right now. Its a dry nitrous vs. turbo street bike class. Both are competitive.

 

[BusaHANG]

So lets say i want at least 250hp on pump gas, turbocharged. What am i looking to spend? I know there are turbo kits from RCC which to me sounds really reputable, at reasonable cost. But is there more behind just buying a kit? I come from a turbocharge vehicle and sometimes when i read up on turbocharging the busa i get lost. Everyone has different inputs which is fine, but what im asking here is not the cost of the turbo kit itself but other things that may apply. What else do i need to do with the motor? Is it safe to just throw the kit on stock motor? THanks guys, newbie here trying to learn.

 

[24eclipse]

So lets say i want at least 250hp on pump gas, turbocharged. What am i looking to spend? I know there are turbo kits from RCC which to me sounds really reputable, at reasonable cost. But is there more behind just buying a kit? I come from a turbocharge vehicle and sometimes when i read up on turbocharging the busa i get lost. Everyone has different inputs which is fine, but what im asking here is not the cost of the turbo kit itself but other things that may apply. What else do i need to do with the motor? Is it safe to just throw the kit on stock motor? THanks guys, newbie here trying to learn.

Second that!!!

 

[Destin07]

For a "street bike" , getting a 300+ HP Turbo down the track can be expensive and take a lot of development time. There are a lot of hidden cost such as a variable boost controller. Getting it controllable in first gear so that you can come out WOT and not kill yourself is the trick. If you go turbo, make sure you know someone that can walk you through this stuff.
The advantage of dry nitrous is cost. I think you can go just as fast for a WHOLE lot less money. Look at Real Street right now. Its a dry nitrous vs. turbo street bike class. Both are competitive.

I agree if your are just going to local strip to play that nitrous you can go fast and the average rider probably faster and way cheaper. For the street Nitrous sucks bigfoots hairy wang. "WOW i pushed the nitrous button 2 times on the flyby and now I'm out....Lets go spend another $15 for 2 more passes...and I can only shoot a safe 40 or so HP unless I run race gas For street riding turbos are way way way more fun and efficient. Since he has a gen 2 300HP is pretty easy to achieve but I agree he will go faster on nitrous at first but if he learns to ride the turbo it will be over

 

[Destin07]

So lets say i want at least 250hp on pump gas, turbocharged. What am i looking to spend? I know there are turbo kits from RCC which to me sounds really reputable, at reasonable cost. But is there more behind just buying a kit? I come from a turbocharge vehicle and sometimes when i read up on turbocharging the busa i get lost. Everyone has different inputs which is fine, but what im asking here is not the cost of the turbo kit itself but other things that may apply. What else do i need to do with the motor? Is it safe to just throw the kit on stock motor? THanks guys, newbie here trying to learn.

But the kit from Richard and if you don't then your going to wish you had. Gen 2's are safe to run 4-4.5lb I think. If you want more then you have to replace the titanium valves, stud it ect... but not alot more. Since you are "new" to turbos starting with RCC is your best decision you can make. Call Richard and hear for yourself exactly what you will need and what you will not. If you keep the boost at 4.5lb I believe you can throw the stage 1 on a gen 2 and make a solid 230HP or more. Then if you enjoy turbos and want more HP you can do the valves and spacer and up the boost to 10lb on stock motor. You also need to get ahold of boostbysmith.com or greg smith and get his ECU reflasher and have your bike tuned with that. He can setup Gen 2 bikes were you can set your bike in A, B,or C mode and have different boost settings in each

 

[BusaHANG]

But the kit from Richard and if you don't then your going to wish you had. Gen 2's are safe to run 4-4.5lb I think. If you want more then you have to replace the titanium valves, stud it ect... but not alot more. Since you are "new" to turbos starting with RCC is your best decision you can make. Call Richard and hear for yourself exactly what you will need and what you will not. If you keep the boost at 4.5lb I believe you can throw the stage 1 on a gen 2 and make a solid 230HP or more. Then if you enjoy turbos and want more HP you can do the valves and spacer and up the boost to 10lb on stock motor. You also need to get ahold of boostbysmith.com or greg smith and get his ECU reflasher and have your bike tuned with that. He can setup Gen 2 bikes were you can set your bike in A, B,or C mode and have different boost settings in each

Thanks for the quick reply, so just to clear this up for newbies like me and others who are looking to do so, Its "SAFE" to throw RCC's stage 1 kit on a STOCK Gen2 motor running at 4-4.5lbs of boost. Then also having to get the ECU flasher either from boostbysmith or greg. If so I think this could help alot of the newbies figure out what route they want to go in. Thanks Destin07.