ECU Editor / Nitrous NOT WORKING!

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DenisTheMenace

Registered
Hello all,

I purchsed my bike with it tuned through ECU editor and the nitrous set through RPM and TPS, few nights ago i sprayed it and it pulled like a train, last night the nitrous would not activate, today i checked the solenoid to make sure it was working and it is, there was a local dyno run today in town so i went and did 2 pulls, the nitrous isnt coming on...

Schnitz wired it and wiring isnt my topic so i stopped before i messed it up... Anything i should check for?
 
Sometimes the nitrous will not work if the bottle pressure is too high! Are you running a dry system, any safety devices installed to prevent it from working under certain conditions?
 
The pressure is right around the 950psi according to the guage, dry system, what i dont get is it worked 2 nights ago and today it doesnt, i was going to replace the relay but the relay thats on there has some kind of resistor tacked onto it
 
It's pretty easy to figure out in person, not so easy over the internet. As stated, high bottle pressure will keep the solenoid from opening. Try this: Put the bike on a rear stand. Put the kickstand up. Put the bike in a gear that nitrous should be enable in. Turn the key on, but don't start the bike. Arm the nitrous system. With the bottle closed and pressure out of the line, fully open the throttle. Push any activation button (if needed). You should hear the solenoid click. If not, grab a friend and your meter and start checking if you are getting juice to the solenoid or not under these conditions. Follow it back until you find the problem. If you are getting juice, try keeping the bottle pressure down, like open the bottle slightly to pressurize the line but close it before it goes over 800 psi. Repeat the test. If you still don't get anything try unhooking the solenoid from the output line and retest to elminate the possibility of a plugged output line. I've had this happen on my Spyder system which has very small jets. Hopefully this is enough to get you started.
 
That will not work.

He has the TPS and RPM limit set up through the ECU editor, or he should. Since the RPM is not within the stated window, it will not turn on
 
I dont think the above mentioned method will work, how would it work if it doesnt sense RPM? There isnt any activation other then RPM and TPS? I talked to Greg and he had me try it using the MODE up button but that didnt activate it either, I think im going to mail the harness to him and see if he can test it make sure the relay isnt bad or something. Let me know if you guys have any other ideas!
 
If you are using ECU flash and the pair output for nitrous activation what I described is the proper debug tool. ECU flash was written so that when the enging is off, full throttle, kickstand up, in an appropriate gear, and the mode input on the ECU grounded (if flashed for it), it will activate the pair output and if everything is working, the nitrous solenoid. There is no RPM needed, the code bypasses that requirement when the engine is off. I do this often on mine to be sure things are working properly. In fact I did it yesterday.

You can have RPM and TPS activation only, which means you will always be running your nitrous map even if the bottle is off. If you flash for RPM, TPS, and mode (DSM) input, you will either need to push the mode button or have another method to ground the appropriate mode button input at the ECU. I flashed mine to require the mode input and have a dpdt switch wired so I can run in 1: auto (mode input grounded) or 2: manual (mode input grounded by my flash to pass button), or 3: off (no ground supplied to mode input)
 
Dennis said:
If you are using ECU flash and the pair output for nitrous activation what I described is the proper debug tool. ECU flash was written so that when the enging is off, full throttle, kickstand up, in an appropriate gear, and the mode input on the ECU grounded (if flashed for it), it will activate the pair output and if everything is working, the nitrous solenoid. There is no RPM needed, the code bypasses that requirement when the engine is off. I do this often on mine to be sure things are working properly. In fact I did it yesterday.

You can have RPM and TPS activation only, which means you will always be running your nitrous map even if the bottle is off. If you flash for RPM, TPS, and mode (DSM) input, you will either need to push the mode button or have another method to ground the appropriate mode button input at the ECU. I flashed mine to require the mode input and have a dpdt switch wired so I can run in 1: auto (mode input grounded) or 2: manual (mode input grounded by my flash to pass button), or 3: off (no ground supplied to mode input)
Click to expand...

My bike is set up to have the activation switch ON, then at 7000RPM and 95% or more throttle the nitrous kicks in. My mode always displays A and i cant change it.
 
I tried this test and it DID NOT WORK. I tested the pair connector and the orange wire does get 12V, i hooked my test light up to the battery and on touched the relay and the solenoid activated... could my relay be bad?
 
I think i found the problem, the relay isnt getting ground from the PAIR valve to activate the solenoid. If i take direct power to the relay it kicks the solenoid on. Now i cant find out why the pair isnt sending signal to the relay...
 
Problem SOLVED. The relay was bad, not sure how or why but it was bad. I bought a new relay, plugged the wires in, and click went my solenoid! My mode up button doesnt activate it, so i switched to the mode down button, now going to ground the wire to ecu and ill be on my way!

The jet is stamped 030, i think thats a 34hp shot, im adding 16% fuel on 100% cycle, should i add more or is this enough?

Thanks,
 
No valve springs werent changed, when it comes to nitrous everybody has a different opinion, Schnitz tuned the bike and said 40hp shot is fine on stock springs, ive read where guys progress a 65hp shot and have been fine for 2 seasons. The tune is key is what people say.

The bike will visit Schnitz when i get back from vacation to get re tuned for the Brocks pipe (previous akrapovic) and filter upgrade. Well see what the beast puts out!
 
DenisTheMenace said:
No valve springs werent changed, when it comes to nitrous everybody has a different opinion, Schnitz tuned the bike and said 40hp shot is fine on stock springs, ive read where guys progress a 65hp shot and have been fine for 2 seasons. The tune is key is what people say.
Click to expand...

I'd take that advice with a grain of salt. I know a couple people that have spit shims with a 40-shot or less. I'd do the upgrades unless you want to pay for it twice down the road...
 
You never know. I've been spraying 40 hp for 4 years on a stock motor with no issues. It could blow up tomorrow.

I also wouldn't bother retuning for changing from an Akra to a Brocks. I suspect there is as much variation due to changing weather conditions as there is between those two pipes so a wideband would be a better solution in my opinion.
 
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