Mr Turbo problems




#1
Guys I got a 2001 Mr Turbo bike. I bought it as is. I didn't do anything to it. I took it down to Ryan Schnitz and had it tuned. Ran good but not "great". Great to me is it wasn't super reliable to be a daily rider. Had good power but just below 4000 rpm it would hesitate and surge. When your on it , it runs good. Went to the track and made a pass, spun in first gear till 2nd gear, missed 2nd gear. Totally crappy run. 11.11 @134 mph. Next pass 11.02 128, 10.97@ 124 mph. Made 4 passes and on the last pass the motor was in the red zone on the temp gauge. It didnt feel like it wasn't making power, but obviously it wasn't. Bike stalled after the last pass on the return road. Wouldnt fire back up. I had to push it back and load it up and go home. I fully expected this bike to easily run low 9's. I am an experienced rider and should have easily gotten high 9's with total **** runs. So back at the shop..... I find the intake going to the plenum came off. The elbow going into the plenum was worn out. So I bought new one. Well back to turbo power again. But after riding it for a day, the starter took a dump, the starter clutch went bad and I had bad surging when I did ride it. It was cutting out, like someone was turning the key off.

So off to Maximum Performance to have them mess with it. Mean while I made a 1400 mile trip on my Vmax. Flawless.

I get back and a week later MP says my bikes done, but they can't find the reason it surges. So I pick it up, and ride it 10 feet from there shop and it surges and dies right there. I figure I ll just take it home and fix it myself. So it starts up and makes a 110 mile trip back to my shop ok. I ride it two hours after I get back and its surging again. Fuel pressure the whole time it 48-52 psi. I can hear the pumps running and they don't sound like they are shutting down. So I am bummed, I am thinking I am going to sell the bike. I am tired of having a bad ass ride and not being able to ride it. So I am back the shop, I start messing with the teether kill switch and I think its the problem. So I get that taken care of and my cutting out is gone. I ride it and I am happy, for a day.

Now I ride it and its surging but not cutting out. Fuel pressure is still up ( atleast on the gauge ).

I am not a electrical guru, hence me taking it to Max P. But that didnt get me anywhere either so I am stuck trying to figure this out myself.

So any pointers on things to take a look at.

Quick break down.


idle to 5000 rpm it surges if you cruise, doesn't matter what gear. Above 5000 rpm if your ripping into it, it runs like a raped ape and will spin the tire between 10-11,000 on every shift. I ve run it up to 195 mph indicated on the speedo with no problems. It plain pulls hard. But cruising sucks.

Both Ryan and Max P said the tune is just about spot on. It made 230 hp and 137 ft lbs.

I ll get more specs on the motor. But Ryan did say it had 36 lb injectors in it and that it wouldn't cruise great. But its almost unbridgeable now and I didn't have that problem till recently.

I am at the point and I hate to say that I am thinking of selling both my Busa's and my Vmax and buying a ZX14, putting a pipe on it and a pc with a good tune and throw a 50-60 dry shot on it and have a 8 second bike that will be reliable and go anywhere at the turn of a key. I am just getting to old to constantly have to mess with crap like this.

Todd

Ps I bought this bike ( the turbo ) because I wanted a 8 second bike and I know if I had enough seat time and I could get it running it would be there, but I want it to be streetable and fun too. Not a drag only bike.
 
#2
the other issues probably influenced the tuneups , do you have a datalogger that you could check and adjust the areas giving problems now


what engine management a pc3 and fmu ?? if so you probably don't need big injectors untill your over 10 psi
and once your over that your better off upgrading the management
 

frisbee

GODSPEED RACING
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#4
Not a guru here but it sounds like your ECU or PCIII is messed up or going bad. maybe a loose wire. Can't believe that a shop would say that "your bike is done "BUT" we can't find out why it surges" . Where are you located ?
 

RYC1966

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#5
It sounds like it is falling on its face here and there.....if you can repeat the problem 2 or 3 times and identify to much fuel / air or not enough fuel / air....if it leaned out you would melt the engine....it seems like at a specific fuel range it is fat...the other issue is tuning in on a table....not sitting on the ground just revingit up....the bike needs a load on the tire + engine needs to get the breeze for cooling and breathing
 

Moparict

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#7
There is nothing wrong with your turbo kit. It definately sounds like a tuning issue. Find a reputable tuner who is familiar with a turbo bike and your electronics. I drove 9 hours to a tuner, others have driven further.
 

POWERHOUSE

Frank
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#8
There is nothing wrong with your turbo kit. It definately sounds like a tuning issue. Find a reputable tuner who is familiar with a turbo bike and your electronics. I drove 9 hours to a tuner, others have driven further.
I agree. Anyone who tells you that your bike will never cruise "great" because it has 36 pound injectors in it is wrong. To be fair, Ryan (according to you) tuned what you brought him and what you brought was not set up correctly in the first place. There are some things you just can tune "around". Get your bike to a turbo shop that knows what its doing . . .:laugh:
 
#9
PC3 with an FMU.

And to clarify, Ryan didnt say it wouldn't cruise great necessarily, but said it will be fat on the bottom end and he tuned it the best he could. He said a stock bike will cruise much better than this one will at lower rpm. I drove 6 hours to Ryan. And it ran alot better. But it just seems to have a hiccup and I can't see to shake it. But honestly its fine and then its not. So sometimes it maybe running awesome and then 2 hours later it surges. Then an entire day it might surge or just barely surge. And its not 100% consistent that its surging at 4500, sometimes its lower and other times its 4500. After 5000 it seems to be ok.

My problem is finding someone in Michigan that is good at Turbo bikes like this. Hence the reason I took it to Maximum Performance in Ohio. They dyno'ed it also and came up with 230 hp and 137 ft lbs of torque. So I know the motor is on par with what it should be roughly or atleast its where a stage 1 turbo should be roughly for a Mr Turbo kit.

I run my own business and wish I had time to mess with it more and learn everything. But I want to ride right now, so if someone local could be trustworthy enough to fix it, I would drop it off. But I don't want to be waiting 6 weeks again to get it back. Riding season is short enough as it is in Michigan. If I can fix it myself in a weekend, I d go for it.

I am just getting frustrated and at the point of selling my 99 busa, 99 Vmax and this 2001 turbo busa and just buying a brand new Gen 2 or ZX14 and putting a pipe, pc and tune, and a 50 dry shot on it and I should have atleast 250-70hp on a ZX14. Have a reliable 8 second bike I could ride cross country if I wanted ( brand new is nice to ). But I really like the turbo bike and the looks of a Gen 1 ( hence why I have 2 ). But the headaches and wanting to ride more than fix it are starting to eat at me.

Thanks for the response so far also guys I appreciate it.
 
#12
are they doing just a WOT map or are they actually tuning it through the whole rpm range?
and if you really think the injectors are the issue put stock in it and have it retuned. my last ghetto kit made 260-270 on stock injectors without leaning out. I have ridden busas on the street with s2000 inj with no issues on motor-nos bikes.
PC3 with an FMU.

And to clarify, Ryan didnt say it wouldn't cruise great necessarily, but said it will be fat on the bottom end and he tuned it the best he could. He said a stock bike will cruise much better than this one will at lower rpm. I drove 6 hours to Ryan. And it ran alot better. But it just seems to have a hiccup and I can't see to shake it. But honestly its fine and then its not. So sometimes it maybe running awesome and then 2 hours later it surges. Then an entire day it might surge or just barely surge. And its not 100% consistent that its surging at 4500, sometimes its lower and other times its 4500. After 5000 it seems to be ok.

My problem is finding someone in Michigan that is good at Turbo bikes like this. Hence the reason I took it to Maximum Performance in Ohio. They dyno'ed it also and came up with 230 hp and 137 ft lbs of torque. So I know the motor is on par with what it should be roughly or atleast its where a stage 1 turbo should be roughly for a Mr Turbo kit.

I run my own business and wish I had time to mess with it more and learn everything. But I want to ride right now, so if someone local could be trustworthy enough to fix it, I would drop it off. But I don't want to be waiting 6 weeks again to get it back. Riding season is short enough as it is in Michigan. If I can fix it myself in a weekend, I d go for it.

I am just getting frustrated and at the point of selling my 99 busa, 99 Vmax and this 2001 turbo busa and just buying a brand new Gen 2 or ZX14 and putting a pipe, pc and tune, and a 50 dry shot on it and I should have atleast 250-70hp on a ZX14. Have a reliable 8 second bike I could ride cross country if I wanted ( brand new is nice to ). But I really like the turbo bike and the looks of a Gen 1 ( hence why I have 2 ). But the headaches and wanting to ride more than fix it are starting to eat at me.

Thanks for the response so far also guys I appreciate it.
 
#13
It was tuned through out the rpm range. Ryan sent me another tune to try to help in the 3-5000 range. But since I just got the bike back recently I didn't install it. But he said it wasn't much different if I recall correctly. This is my first fuel injected and turbo bike. So while I know what people are talking about my experience isn't as great as old time jets and carbs etc. So alot of the tech on this bike is totally understandable to me, but new to me as never owning something like this. So to be honest, I know the injectors aren't the problem. Because there are times when the bike runs awesome at low rpm. Then there are times like on the way home, it stalled on me twice at idle. It just cut and died. Started right back up, but ran rough and surged the next two miles home on and off.

So I am leaning to something electrical that is either eluding me like a break in a wire, a sensor like a map going back or something along those lines. I am not familiar enough with all the "extras" done to the bike but to know when I am looking at it, I know this wire or loom isnt factory. But I am unsure what every where is on the harness, so when I see something tied into a factory wire, I am not sure what its tied into.

I am just aggravated because one minute it runs great the entire day and the next day it runs like crap for the day or half the day, then goes back to running great. Its ride able, but not the way I want it to be. I want turn key and go every single time ( doesn't everyone ) with no problems.

I ll deal with loss of low end power and things because of the higher end power gains, things like that. I am ok with. But when I can't go down the road with out riding a bucking horse, that is unacceptable.

Thanks again for the suggestion.
 
#15
Before I fixed my brake light problem, which the fuel pump is tied into the brake light power wire, it would lose tach signal. But it hasn't done that recently. I did the teether "fix" and I figured that was causing the complete loss of power. As the tach needle and speedo would bounce like you just turned the bike on and off. It always restarts. It never stops and won't start.

Also it never did it on either dyno, which made me think it was a loose wire some place being aggravated by bumps in the road.
 
#17
That I am not sure. And one thing I am going to move and change. There is no key, only a kill switch. Which I figured if anything the fuel pump should be wired off the kill switch not the brake light. And this is one of the reasons I don't quite understand what and where all the wires are going and why.
 
#18
its a wonder its not blowing fuses.
That I am not sure. And one thing I am going to move and change. There is no key, only a kill switch. Which I figured if anything the fuel pump should be wired off the kill switch not the brake light. And this is one of the reasons I don't quite understand what and where all the wires are going and why.
 

Poppy

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#19
That I am not sure. And one thing I am going to move and change. There is no key, only a kill switch. Which I figured if anything the fuel pump should be wired off the kill switch not the brake light. And this is one of the reasons I don't quite understand what and where all the wires are going and why.
That's interesting. I would sort out all of the electrical wiring mysteries because it may not be a mechanical problem causing you grief. If you figure it out definitely post up your results! Good luck too!
 
#20
Sounds like a fuel supply or regulation issue to me. Either a junk FMU , junk fuel pump, or hoses that are getting hot.

I'd wire a relay directly off of the battery for the fuel pump, with the power for the relay coil coming from the yellow wire with red stripe that powers the injectors.

When you say the temp was in the red zone on the gauge, were you running the bike round robin for 4 passes?

Is the FI light on?

Seems a bit dd that a streetbike woudl not have a key. Leads me to think this one is going to be one electrical gremlin after another.
 

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