Gen 2 turbo problems





busakiller

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So my turbo bike has a weird problem at 3k to 5k Rpms at part throttle. It sounds like it’s running on 2 cylinders. Had it on the dyno and does it when in gear and not in gear. The afr stays the same before the bike starts to run funny and after. We changed the afr all over the place and that doesn’t effect the problem. So iam stumped and the dyno guy doesn’t know what to do. It sounds like the ignition is getting cut out. This problem isn’t out of the blue. It’s been like this since I bought it and havent been able to figure it out. I thought it was the tune so I had the bike tuned Thur the ecu. Problem not gone. So I bought a new ecu and problem still there. So I got the ecu flashed and still there. Put a power commander on to get the bike tuned and that still hasn’t changed. Going to pick up a tool that lets me watch the spark going to the spark plug to confirm if it’s losing spark. Bike only acts up part throttle when your in that rpm area. Once your out of that it free revs nice and smooth. But if you hold the Rpms in the area it runs like garbage and sounds like it’s running on half the cylinders. Anyone have any ideas on it could be or what to look into. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

Mr Brown

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Not trying to come off like a prick, but they're not the same. Reason I ask is because that's about the RPM you'd find it, and it makes a motor run like sh!t. If you're confident there's none built in, ok. Next thing I'd suggest is the secondaries. Are they right? Opening and closing as they should for the map?
 

busakiller

Registered
Not trying to come off like a prick, but they're not the same. Reason I ask is because that's about the RPM you'd find it, and it makes a motor run like sh!t. If you're confident there's none built in, ok. Next thing I'd suggest is the secondaries. Are they right? Opening and closing as they should for the map?

Hey man it’s all good. I know the ecu has 2 step flashed in it. And iam pretty sure it doesn’t have anti lag. The bike has done this since I bought it and I have swapped the ecu out with a different and doesn’t change a thing
 

busakiller

Registered
What’s the afr when this is happening? What plugs are you running, and what gap?

Iam running stock plugs and gapped at .020. We went from 12.0 afr to 14.5. It didn’t matter what the afr was at it sounded the same and didn’t change.

I will take a video when I can and show you guys what’s it doing. I do plan on checking the tps sensor tomorrow once I can find the instructions on how to adjust it.
 

busakiller

Registered
Stock iridium plugs? Should switch those out. How much boost? What turbo kit?

You can use the live data feature on ecu editor and do a full sweep on the tps and make sure it goes 0-100%.

I don’t have ecu editor. The plugs I run are the ngk cr9e. Running 7 pounds right now and it’s a pieced together kit. I put the bike in dealer mode and it looks like the tps is off. It’s on the bottom so this afternoon I will start the bike up and let it run and reset the tps. I also found the bike still has the secondary butterflies still in it. Pulling those and putting new plugs in this morning
 

Boosted Cycle Perf

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I don’t have ecu editor. The plugs I run are the ngk cr9e. Running 7 pounds right now and it’s a pieced together kit. I put the bike in dealer mode and it looks like the tps is off. It’s on the bottom so this afternoon I will start the bike up and let it run and reset the tps. I also found the bike still has the secondary butterflies still in it. Pulling those and putting new plugs in this morning
Is it a built or stock engine? Definitely pull the secondary throttle blades. Also, do you know for sure it’s hitting 7psi, or just assuming it is because of the spring that’s in it?
 

busakiller

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Here’s a video showing what iam talking about. This is before I adjusted the tps. That’s why the idle is jumpy. It idles smooth now but still doesn’t rev up smooth on light throttle. If you lean on it the bike revs smooth.
 

ColdBusa

Take this Jerry, you silly little rodent
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What's your fuel pressure at idle? It sounds like it's dumping and cutting fuel to make the bike meet it's idle RPM. Possibly your regulator needs some adjustment or replacement. When you rev it up and it's asking for more fuel to the injectors, the pressure will drop, and the regulator is probably opening enough so you don't see this cycling happening. May have a kinked fuel line possibly as well on the regulator.
 

Boosted Cycle Perf

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Drop the new plugs down to .018.

Does the bike have a 1:1 regulator or an fmu? 3 bar map sensor?

Sounds like it’s going really fat right there. If it was going lean it would have more of a popping sound. That’s more of a rich stutter. What was the afr at idle? Usually when they’re really rich at idle they’ll surge a bit like that. Or the map blending in that area is really rough. The tuner say anything about pulling any timing out of it?
 

busakiller

Registered
I put new plugs and nothing changed. Gapped at .022. I will pull them out and gap them to .018. The old ones were pretty black. So it’s running pig rich. Afr at idle is around 13.5.

It’s a 1:1 fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure is around 43 pounds at idle. Fuel pressure doesn’t go down but does go up when You rev it but not crazy looks like a pound or 2 more fuel pressure.

Bike does have a 3 bar map sensor.

The tuner is only tuning with a power commander.
 

Mr Brown

Registered
It sounds for all the world like it's loading up on fuel, but that doesn't make sense because of the throttle percentage. Have you pulled the secondary flies? If they weren't opening as they should could that be causing it to run so rich? I'm thinking aloud, not from any expertise....
 

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