fossil or synthetic?

vincent

vincent

What blue lights?
Donating Member
Thinking of switching over to synthetic oil on next change (this weekend). Have heard a lot of opinions on this but would like to know peoples actuall results. Did it help the engine to run better?

Also, anyone know why you aren't supposed to go back to fossil oil after using synthetic? Never did understand that one so don't really know how much I believe it right now
 
questions:
how many miles are on your bike?
have you tried even a semi-sinthetic oil?
My recommendation would be AMS oil for sinthetic...it's nice, it's what I run...full sinthetic.
 
Comin up on 14k miles. Have only used Motul in it so far. Using Castrol Syntec in car.
 
I'm curious about this too.......is there actually a difference or is it all hog wash.........anyone have dyno numbers on before and after a change to synthetic.........anyone running synthetic have reliability problems ie: bearings or the like.

:beerchug:
 
I don't know if the motor runs any better, But I switched to Mobil 1 in SLEEPER and there was a BIG difference in the way it shifted!!!
MUCH, MUCH smoother!
 
You're using the regular 15W50? I didn't notice any difference when I went from Syntec to MXT4 to Mobil 1 15W50... well, except my wallet. :laugh: I only use 15W50 now, changing it every 4K miles (yep, I actually follow service schedule, rather than draining every 1K as I have seen). :super:
 
Hmmm, odd, I thought the 10-30 had energy saving additives, in it as opposed to the 'racing' 15-50. Or is that only 10-40. :super:

Have you already done the weld mod to the torque limiter? If not, I did the 2002/3 clutch update (last fiber replaced by fiber+2 parts). It's even smoother now. Not sure if it would make a difference with the thingy already welded, though.
:thumbsup:
 
I went to Mobil1 at 1200 miles. I immediately noticed an ease in shifting and freer revving. I change out the filter every other 3 grand.

I used to run Mobil1 MX4T when I read in all of the write ups that the only difference was the amounts of Magnesium compared to Calcium (used primarily for the catalytic converter).

Car Mobil1 was doing the same thing for $3.00 less per quart.

Here is a good article: Motorcycle vs. Car oils http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm
 
Narc, are you talking about the welded hub mod?

If you are, do it, but make sure you don't forget the HD springs from Schnitz Racing for twenty dollars. Without them, you will slip in fifth and sixth gears pulling a load at high RPM's.

That mod makes all the differences in the world for launches. One word: Responcive!

Also noted when you are in a turn, you will no longer notice the surge when you go to re-apply the throttle in the turn. :super:
 
Yeah, the hub mod. But the updated clutch takes care of the old lag and drag as well.

I'm not sure exactly how it operates, though. The last (closest to the engine) fiber is replaced by a new fiber with the inside diameter cut larger and in the empty space is a flat ring and an angled ring. I guess that applies pressure to the plates differently?

Anyway, I suppose the effect of either mod would be the same. Cost me $20 in parts and it's like riding a brand new bike. :cool: :thumbsup:
 
run first few thousand miles on reg oil. this will allow proper break-in. then u can use synth. only a few synth oils will work best. for more info, stay tuned.........
 
(Narcissus @ Aug. 25 2003 said:
Yeah, the hub mod. But the updated clutch takes care of the old lag and drag as well.

Anyway, I suppose the effect of either mod would be the same. Cost me $20 in parts and it's like riding a brand new bike.  :cool:  :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
As I said before: That mod makes all the differences in the world for launches. One word: Responsive! <sp>

Also noted when you are in a turn, you will no longer notice the surge when you go to re-apply the throttle in the turn

I know that you can send in your hub to Brock and he will weld it for you. Keep your core.

It has to be welded on a jig to assure it be hub centric.

You have the 'new' fibers, which I have yet to do, all you need to do is to get the welded hub and the HD springs to complete the package.

I might be able to work out something with Guy Caputos cousin if you are interested in getting a welded hub. Let me know if I can help. :cool:
 
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