Don't use synthetic, it's a waste of money!

A buddy of mine races late model dirt here, and does periodic tear downs of his engine. Since he switched to synthetic, the wear is practically non-existant. I've seen the proof, and the difference is amazing. That made me a believer, and I've used synthetic in my cars and bike since.
 
Mobil 1 Synthetic 15-50 gold cap in mine, the buildups (1397 and then the 1441) each got regular cheap stuff dino for the first 100 miles and in with the good stuff...
 
Just to add to this lively fresh debate....what do you guys all think about switching to synthetic late in a bike's life? 28k miles....I ran dino on my first change, I have no clue what has been run in the bike all its life. There are old wives tails that synthetic after dino could cause oil leaks because it clears up sludge on seals that dino left, hence causing leaks.....does anyone have any experience with this? I want to go to synthetic, but not at the cost of oil leaks...
 
Coconut/Banana Oil by Coppertone :thumbsup:....it smells good. :laugh:
 
Olive oil.
Reduces cholesterol. :laugh:

extra virgin olive oil should not be exposed to heat higher than 325°F, so you might want to change to Grapeseed oil for the summer since it has a relatively high smoke point of approximately 420°F. :laugh:
 
I like the way the guy at the shop walked you into this.... have you been running synth... wonder what his response would have been if you said yes. :laugh:


the guy asks me if I've been running syn. already. I tell him no, this will be the first time. He tells me how their shop uses nothing but regular fossil oil and that they don't recommend synthetic.
 
You can run dino and change it every 3 to 4, or you can run synth and leave it in longer. That's the bottom line. Synthetic will lubricate better longer because it won't break down as quickly. That's about the only quantifiable difference between the two. A lot of people say it's "smoother" or "tighter" with synthetic but the internet is also full of mental giants who's "butt dyno" says they picked up 30 rwhp by putting a cone filter on a sedan with a 4 cylinder in it.

exactly. Non-synthetic oil will turn to VARNISH after taken to extreme heat several times. Synthetic oil can withstand higher heat and won't break down as much.

Both lubricate great. Synthetic is just designed to handle heat better.
:cheerleader:
 
Ok straight from the horse's mouth, here goes shops stock and supply regular oil for 2 reasons COST, and cost

There are small advantages to running synthetic but the cost difference you could change your regular oil more often. And if you get stuck in no-where ville take a wild stab at type of oil you will have to add.
 
2 reasons a dealer will not push synthetic oil. 1, lower profeit margin on full synthetic more money in selling you regular oil, 2, they want your bike to wear out or break down(so the dealer and mechanic can make real money from you).
 
well even if it didnt help or make a difference, it sure aint gonna hurt it, id go with semi synth
 
well synthetic I have ran since my 600 service I street race and play hard. I have had the valves checked at 15 k and just last week at 24k, no adjustment needed still. Now more of my 2 cent's, shell full synthetic rotella ( yes diesel oil ) benn running that in every bike I have owned never had a problem check out a web site called bobs the oil guy . com/ full oil change for me with the fram filter every time at 3500 miles is 25 bucks.... if you are running regular oil ( dyno ) try yamaha lube it really is much better then the suzuki oil shifts soooooooo smoooooth
 
I tried syn. in my girl for 3g and noticed no difference whatsoever in temp or shifting. I also tried syn in my quad and smoked 2 sets of clutches b4 some1 explained that due to syns over slipperiness, it blows the clutches. Went back to yama-lube and never had a problem again. my $.02....
 
When I switched to 15w50 synthetic I've had to turn my engine idle down 3 times. It makes the engine operate and be more efficient.

Nothing oilwise is gonna make an overnight change unless it's one extreme to another.
 
I have to say syn. is better for heat reasons. I run Royal Purple in both my turbo cars, one race and one street, and compared to the dino that was in it from breakin to the 3rd oil change in each it was night and day. Both my cars have heavy tuning done to them and the dino was noticably worn after 2k were as the syn. still seemed new after 3500. It wasn't rite off though it took one run on the syn to really see a dif. My egts are quite a bit lower and the motor much happier. I'm switching to the same in my busa now that it has 5k on it so we will see how it likes it. I figure using the good stuff in the vehicles I run harder will just keep them in better condition. I use regular dino in my powerstroke and both my work vans and they are just as happy.
 
I have switched to synthetic in three of my bikes and will transition the others as oil changes come due. Two differences I can visually notice are lower engine temps and smoother shifting. That seems worth it to me, but make your own decision:beerchug:
 
Ok straight from the horse's mouth, here goes shops stock and supply regular oil for 2 reasons COST, and cost

There are small advantages to running synthetic but the cost difference you could change your regular oil more often. And if you get stuck in no-where ville take a wild stab at type of oil you will have to add.

That is why I keep a quart around just in case I need to add some. Thus far none of my bikes have needed any oil added between changes.
 
I noticed better shifting and lower engine temps with syn oil; I switched to it at 6500 miles. Amsoil and their filters are what I recommend. Others will disagree... :whistle:
 
run mobil1 10w40 in my car, truck, & busa. better gas mileage and only have to buy 1 brand:thumbsup: it works out great since the truck takes 7 quarts, I always have leftovers to do a change on something else.
 
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