Synthetic Vs Minerial Oil


I ride a 03 stock busa with 18,000 miles on it and I've had it for about 4 years. All I've used is Suzuki Conventional Oil 10W40 with a Suzuki oil filter. I'm thinking about switching over to Shell Rotella-T Ful Synthetic oil 5W-40 with a motorcycle Fram oil filter. The cost would be $25 vice $35 for the Suzuki stuff. I would still change my oil & filter about every 2,000 miles. I think the engine would be better protected with the Synthetic oil and myabe shift a little easier. Can anybody tell me why I should not change over to the Synthetic/Fram oil/filter? Has anybody had a bad experiance with this Shell/Fram combination?


First I have heard of the Rotella T Synth? People on here have had good things to say about the Regular Rotella T though. You know Shell makes regular Synthetic oil for Motorcycles too right?

As far as the Fram filter I am not a fan. Try the Purolator #ML-16818 filter instead.


if u look online there is a test on oil filters and the fram scored very low so get the purolater i have been using it for a while now and i also use mobil 1 synthetic

but any synthetic will be better than any standard oil it flows alot easier and doesnt break down as easy


Mr. Anderson

Donating Member
at 2k intervals synthetic may not even be neeed. if you do not rev the engine alot over 8-9k alot rarely, it really isn't needed.

also, why so much for the suzuki dyno fluid? 1 gallon at the dealership should be about 12.99. filter is usually $12 also

Big Red

Donating Member
I have been using Rotella Synthetic in my Honda ST-1300 for over three years now. Synthetic oil is more stable than convetional motor oil over a wider temperature range; consequently, it doesn't break down as easily because it has fewer hydrocarbon molecules.It cleans and protects better and longer! I am going to switch over to it on the Busa next oil change. One gallon containers of Shell Rotella Synthetic (blue bottle) can be bought at Wal Mart fairly cheeply. I haven't seen any automotive oil filters that are recommended for the Suzuki Hayabusa though.


Grippin' and Rippin'
Donating Member
Skip the Fram (Nasty), go Eaom 109 Amsoil......ANYTHING but Fram........


I've been using Rotella synyh for quite some time in my asian bikes. They love it and shift much smoother w/it I go 3-4 k and have had the oil sent to Blackstone a couple times and all reports came back great.


Fram uses a paper filter element. I use amsoil oil and filter. Amsoil uses a much heavier element material and it filters out down to a micron level. I used to use valvoline oil. After switching to amsoil, I will never use anything else. I use it in my cars, lawn mower, dirtbike, snow blower......


The purolator PureOne is the filter you want, not the standard purolator. Oddly enough, the Supertech brand (WalMart's house brand filter) also ranked very high for filters.

personally, im cheap when it comes to oil. I run standard 10w40 suzuki oil and the pureone oil filter. However, I change my oil every 2k of riding time, every fall before I put the bike up, and every spring after storing the bike.


Track Coach / TufPoodle Coach
Why change horses in the middle of the stream? If you are having good results with Suzuki oil and filters. Why change to squeeze out a couple bucks every two thousand miles.

IMO if you aren't racing and you aren't looking to extend the miles between oil changes, dino oil serves the purpose just fine. We use to use synthetic oil in our race bikes but we went back to dino (Suzuki Oil) oil. We did have some clutch slippage problems using synthetic. We change the oil after every race day and when we pull the engine down at the end of the season, the engines using dino oil looks just as good as the engines using synthetic.

IMO synthetic oil is a bit over rated.


Fram doesn't have much media inside. I seen a test where Honda filters and Baldwin filters are the best. If you are going to spend good money on oil get a quality filter.

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