Clutch slipping after brock's clutch mod

Hayadoing

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I have a 2002 busa 12,000 miles on it. I did the brock's clutch mod and put in new plate's ,steels , and springs . Test ride the bike acted as if the clutch wasn't disengaging all the way. I used motorcycle oil in the engine, and followed the instructions to the T. Any ideas would help , I have stock levers on the bike also.
 
I have a 2002 busa 12,000 miles on it. I did the brock's clutch mod and put in new plate's ,steels , and springs . Test ride the bike acted as if the clutch wasn't disengaging all the way. I used motorcycle oil in the engine, and followed the instructions to the T. Any ideas would help , I have stock levers on the bike also.
I did the same mod. I get a much heaver clunk when I go into gear from netural. Other then that it seams OK. I really don't think the shims that go on the springs that come with the mod are necessary. If that persists removing those shims will give you back the normal feel to your clutch.
 
Plates are the same but order of frictions is important as they are all not the same .
On the gen1 there are 2 steels that are a bit different thickness. In the breakdown they show a specific place for them in the stack. But where they are placed really doesn't matter. But you're right on the friction disks. The inner and outer are different and usually marked. The #12 in the attached pic are the odd steels.
I really think this problem is the shims that come with the Brock's Clutch Mod.

Clutch Disk Closeup.png
 
When I put the fiction plates and steels in exactly like the instructions showed. The spring spacers are said to be omitted if I use the heavy duty springs. I suppose I will take it apart and triple check the double check. Thank you for your help.
 
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When I put the fiction plates and steels in exactly like the instructions showed. The spring spacers are said to be omitted if I use the heavy duty springs. I suppose I will take it apart and triple check the double check. Thank you for your help.
Also VERY important... If you used the shims that come with the Brock's mod. Or probably even if you go to a heave duty spring. You need to put a support over your clutch slave cylinder. I know with the Brock's Mod it stats "Do not install the Clutch Spring Spacers - .180” with the clutch cushion kit.". Did you install that as well?
 
Also VERY important... If you used the shims that come with the Brock's mod. Or probably even if you go to a heave duty spring. You need to put a support over your clutch slave cylinder. I know with the Brock's Mod it stats "Do not install the Clutch Spring Spacers - .180” with the clutch cushion kit.". Did you install that as well?
Yes I did.
 
I'm looking at the clutch slave and there is movement ( ie. Flex) when I pull in the clutch.
You did everything as you should. That slight flex at the slave could be the issue. The amount of flex at the slave translates to less movement of the push rod at the pressure plate. Meaning less disengagement of the clutch. I would put a slave sopport on before I pulled the clutch. With the changes you've made you need to do that anyway.
 
I'm looking at the clutch slave and there is movement ( ie. Flex) when I pull in the clutch.
The flex you see at the slave will turn into a crack very soon. Below is a link to the support I use. I prefer it over the U shaped supports. It goes right over the center of the slave cylinder. The U shaped supports just rest on the edge. You do have to pull the rubber pad off your coolant recover tank to use it. But other then that it's just a bolt on. Any support you decide on is better then not having one. That is a weak point on the Busa even if the clutch has not been modified.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5337943218&icep_item=170653629829
 
The flex you see at the slave will turn into a crack very soon. Below is a link to the support I use. I prefer it over the U shaped supports. It goes right over the center of the slave cylinder. The U shaped supports just rest on the edge. You do have to pull the rubber pad off your coolant recover tank to use it. But other then that it's just a bolt on. Any support you decide on is better then not having one. That is a weak point on the Busa even if the clutch has not been modified.
Hayabusa Billet Aluminum Slave Support Block BLACK | eBay
I bought it. Thank you
 
I bought it. Thank you
Glad to help. That will probably take care of it. If not you may want to bleed the clutch system to make sure there's no air in the system. But even if everything is right. You will have a different feel to the clutch after doing the Brock's Mods. I just did the hub mod. The spring shims only increases the lever pressure about 10%. When you install the clutch cushion kit as well the new springs increase lever pressure about 25%. Or so he stats in the instructions. Either way you're making the slave work harder. Both are good mods for the drag strip.
 
I put a brocks clutch mod and only issue is a heavier lever pull, which I don’t like. I’m thinking about removing the spacers, since I don’t drag race and I don’t ride that aggressive.
 
I put a brocks clutch mod and only issue is a heavier lever pull, which I don’t like. I’m thinking about removing the spacers, since I don’t drag race and I don’t ride that aggressive.
Works just fine with the stock springs. Maybe a little shorter clutch life. Gives back the normal pull on the lever. Really the hub mod is only needed if you're launching hard enough that the stock slipper is jumping. Engine braking is also much improved with the Brock's Mod.
 
if clutch slides , control if
the #10 at the microfiche above is at its right position - one "tooth" to left or right - one "hole" different to all others (LH or RH doesn´t matter)
its tooth is not allowed to be at the same degree like all others.

thats the rule for all origin hayabusa clutches and i think it is the same for all other manufacturers too.
 
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