clutch help

[freponyryd]

I'm trying to find a way to adjust where the clutch engages. I realize it is a hydraulic setup and this may cause some issues. And before you ask yes I know about the adjustment wheel on the lever. I had carpal tunnel surgery on my left hand approximately four years ago and after about fourty-five minutes of riding my left wrist starts to get aggrivated and hurts. What I'm trying to do is change where the clutch engages, mine doesn't totaly engage until almost all the way out and I would like to have it engage closer to maybe middle pull or a little less. Does anyone know how to change this?

Thanks,

 

[Aquaman]

I dont think you can with hydraulic, however, I think you can ge a kit to change it to a cable driven clutch and then you will be able to. Some guys who drag race use this set up.

 

[scotty - 12]

The gen 1 also has a hydro clutch and I met a guy a couple months ago that said his drag Busa only had like 1/2" before it engages to leave the line better? So I would think there is something you could do to fix that issue besides growing longer fingers.

 

[Aquaman]

Hit up Professor (Rick) here on the board. He might be able to help you.

 

[Professor]

A few ways to change it some cheaper others easier.
1)Adjustment wheel on the lever will move it some
2)Replace the adjustment wheel on the stock lever with the one Brock sells.
3)Pazzo levers will allow more adjustment
4)You could change the push rod length but that would be a pain
5)Changing the clutch plate stack height will change the point of engagement.


This is based on the 2002-2007 clutchs but they use the same steel "driven"￾ plates on the 08. Total stack height might be a bit different as the friction plates are different part numbers.

Order a few 21451-24F10 plates. There are 2 in the clutch from the factory. I find you need 4 on a new clutch to get the desired effect. As the clutch wears you need a couple more. It would be best to measure each existing friction to make sure they are within spec. By swapping a thicker 21451-24F10 for an existing 21451-24F00 plate you gain .012"￾ stack height. I shoot for a total of 1.98-2.00"￾ without going over 2.00"￾ My more "used"￾ clutches will end up with 7 or 8 thick plates. The OEM service manual calls for 1-4 thick ones but all I have seen have had 2. The service manual does not go into stack height but is a pretty import part of it. The friction plates can wear .010-.018"￾ and still be within limit. It all adds up, loose .150"￾ of stack height can reduce the springs pressure on the plate by 30-90 lbs depending on the setup.

 

[freponyryd]

Thanks, I think the Brocks lever cam wheel might be the ticket. although breaking open the entire clutch assembly and changing the plates does sound tempting to try to tackle over my lunch break.

 

[99'busa]

I've heard alot about people who don't use the clutch at all for upshifting. You just let out the throttle a bit and at the same time upshift. They say it is easier and better. If this is true you wouldn't have to clutch at all on upshift except for first gear.

I'm just throwing this out there. Hopefully Prof. is still around and can put some 2 cents in on this.

I have tried this and it DOES shift VERY easy.

 

[BIKE DUDE]

I still use clutch on 1-2 shift to ease wear on the trans and always use it when down shifting but thats it.

 

[solarbarack]

I've heard alot about people who don't use the clutch at all for upshifting. You just let out the throttle a bit and at the same time upshift. They say it is easier and better. If this is true you wouldn't have to clutch at all on upshift except for first gear.

I'm just throwing this out there. Hopefully Prof. is still around and can put some 2 cents in on this.

I have tried this and it DOES shift VERY easy.

I do that all the time, but if your not used to it or are a lazy shifter you can bend your forks.

 

[Professor]

I've heard alot about people who don't use the clutch at all for upshifting. You just let out the throttle a bit and at the same time upshift. They say it is easier and better. If this is true you wouldn't have to clutch at all on upshift except for first gear.

I'm just throwing this out there. Hopefully Prof. is still around and can put some 2 cents in on this.

I have tried this and it DOES shift VERY easy.

I do that all the time, but if your not used to it or are a lazy shifter you can bend your forks.

I agree here. Most of the damage occurs trying to cram it in gear after a missed shift. When I was foot shifting the 2006 season, I used the clutch on the 1-2 upshift and without on the rest. On the street "at a spirited pace" I upshifted all without the clutch. Now I use an Air Shifter at the track. I just went though my motor and tranny. The tranny looked great after 2 years of my abuse (over 500 passes). One fork had some signs of high temp but was straight.

 

[freponyryd]

Yeah I do the clutchless up-shift at times, but around here there is a lot of traffic and traffic lights, therefore a lot of stop and go. I don't mean to give the impression that I dont know how to ride the bike, but I want my baby to be perfect in every way. I just got mine on the first of this month and my last bike was a ZX6R that I dropped a lot of mone into changing and adding parts so this time I'm trying to find ways of making the little modifications without spending any money (per the wife).

My next question would be will the 5 position cam wheel adjuster from the brake lever be a viable option for the clutch lever. I like the brake lever set in the 1 position so maybe this would be a free option. any thoughts?

 

[freponyryd]

Well folks, I have met with success! I decided over a few beers that if Brocks could engineer a cam wheel that would allow closer clutch engagement so could I, without ever taking the clutch lever off of the bike. I pulled out the stock cam wheel and my trusty dremmel tool and shaved down the flat side coresponding with the #4 on the wheel. Now the clutch engages approximately 1-1.2 in. from the handle, much more comfortable for someone with short fingers and carpal tunnel. If any of you are thinking of doing this I will recomend maybe getting a large clear plastic bag and kind of condom it over the whole left handlebar because when you pull the stock cam wheel out there is a tiny (really small) metal ball held in by a spring under the wheel that locks the wheel in the desired position, and it flys really well across the garage. Thanks for the help,