Choke doesn't do anything...

Not trying to TJ but I just finished adjusting mine and there is a stop screw that was not letting mine fast idle. It is a real pain in the a** to get to with the airbox on but you can get to it.:beerchug:
 
LOL...I left my cable alone, and now just move my bars left or right to change idle speed!!

Seriously, I did have to adjust mine after re-routing in connection with install if riser/Heli-bars. It was very easy...just follow steps above.

CW
 
pcosho said:
Not trying to TJ but I just finished adjusting mine and there is a stop screw that was not letting mine fast idle. It is a real pain in the a** to get to with the airbox on but you can get to it.:beerchug:
Click to expand...

My cable isn't loose either...it's that set screw...and I can't get to it.
 
BA BUSA said:
Correct...the cable gets stretched after a while and needs to be adjusted...loosen the lock nuts, and the sheathing (cable) needs to move towards the front of the bike.
Click to expand...

Good job BA. I think that the adjustment to increase the fast idle is in the opposite direction of the regular idle, but turning it one way or the other will tell you right away.
 
berryman said:
My cable isn't loose either...it's that set screw...and I can't get to it.
Click to expand...

You have too check the slack in the cable first...there should not
be much...if you move the lever and the cam doesn't move until you
are 1/2 way on the lever or more...it's too loose.

Once the cable is set right...then you can use the screw to fine tune the fast idle speed.
 
But the screw is behind the cables...how do you get to that or are you adjusting the screw that holds the pulley on?

Fastidle-1.jpg
 
Last edited:
Well done on the instructions BA BUSA. I had this with my bike as well. It's normal for the high idle to need adjusted from time to time.
 
BUSAGO1979 said:
OMG this is the best post...I have known for a while that I needed to adjust my engine idle but this gives me so much more information...

My bike will not stay idling with out the Fast Idle Switch being pulled all the way open...if I push it back to fully closed the bike dies, as it is I only idle just under 1k when warmed up and often have to hold the throttle open while warming up....

Once I finish adjusting the engine idle to comfort zone I will adjust the fast idle...

Whoever posted this thread.....THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:cheerleader::bowdown::thumbsup::beerchug:
Click to expand...

Note that this thread is talking about the fast idle, not the standard engine idle. If you're adjusting the regular idle, set it to 1250 rpm. 3500 is only for the fast idle used to warm the engine up before riding. You may already be aware of this, but I couldn't tell for sure from your post so I figured I'd clarify, just in case.
 
berryman said:
View attachment 135074

1 or 2
Click to expand...

#1 is the stop screw...

But all you need to do is loosen the lock nut on the right side of the bracket and then turn the nut that is on the 'cable'...with the tank raised, run the bike to warm it up. Move the 'fast idle lever' to the full on position...then turn adjustment nut until the bike is running at 3500 rpm...tighten the lock nut back up. You may have to do this a couple of times, because when you tighten the lock nut, the speed may change...
 
I"m gonna do my adjustment today --- didn't get to it this morning like I planned. ???

Thanks again for clarifying it even more... those close up pix are a God send for people like me... :beerchug: Thank you rusheriv --- that tid bit about keep the handles turned one way or the other was prefect. I keep my bike on the rear stand most of the time, and the front wheel is usually straight. That would've made a difference for me.

I'll let you know how it goes...
 
Last edited:
BA BUSA said:
#1 is the stop screw...

But all you need to do is loosen the lock nut on the right side of the bracket and then turn the nut that is on the 'cable'...with the tank raised, run the bike to warm it up. Move the 'fast idle lever' to the full on position...then turn adjustment nut until the bike is running at 3500 rpm...tighten the lock nut back up. You may have to do this a couple of times, because when you tighten the lock nut, the speed may change...
Click to expand...

Which one is the adjustment nut? The one on the right or the left of the bracket? Thanks.
 
VetteNBusa said:
Which one is the adjustment nut? The one on the right or the left of the bracket? Thanks.
Click to expand...

There is one on the left of the bracket in the pic...and two on the right. You shouldn't have to touch the one on the left side...the one next to the bracket on the right needs to be loosened...the larger one to the right of that one is where you adjust the speed. Then lock the other one back down.
 
BA BUSA said:
There is one on the left of the bracket in the pic...and two on the right. You shouldn't have to touch the one on the left side...the one next to the bracket on the right needs to be loosened...the larger one to the right of that one is where you adjust the speed. Then lock the other one back down.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply BA... Sorry. I was labeling this when you must have been replying.

So, this is the way it looks now. Should this setting tighten the cable or loosen it? Should #1 be closer to the bracket?

I CAN NOT get the fast idle over 2k when open. Am I missing something really simple? TIA :beerchug:

Dave


CDL-CCW-Scan-003.jpg
 
VetteNBusa said:
Thanks for the reply BA... Sorry. I was labeling this when you must have been replying.

So, this is the way it looks now. Should this setting tighten the cable or loosen it? Should #1 be closer to the bracket?

I CAN NOT get the fast idle over 2k when open. Am I missing something really simple? TIA :beerchug:

Dave


CDL-CCW-Scan-003.jpg
Click to expand...

Turn the adjuster the other way...I think I said to go that direction earlier in the thread... :banghead:
 
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