:tiptoe:
2008 hayabusa front sprocket
- Thread starter mister08busa
- Start date
:tiptoe:
:tiptoe:
I'll spell it out again as best as I know how, and then let it die, as I did not start the arguement.
If you change sprockets on a bike and the engine is unchanged.
The engine's power curve, rpm of peak hp and rev limit do not change.
So changing the gearing lets you move your speed up or down into an optimal rpm range(optimal being where the rider wants it to be).
When you do this you can make less or more use of the torque the engine is outputting at a given rpm range(hp is also calculated from torque).
When a front sprocket is changed for a lower size the engine must work harder to accomplish the same speed as before, the opposite is true for changing the rear for a larger one, (both top speeds are reduced).
This is why -1 does not equal +3 on the rear, no matter how close a 17/43 to an 18/46 ratio is on paper, or their capable top speeds per gear.
Gearing changes are done for 2 reasons, application; 1/8th, 1/4, or 1 mile racing, top speed runs, trackdays, ect., or preference; you like how your bike feels with certain gearing.
Which sprockets are best for dragracing(which seems where the topic went) is dependant upon track/weather conditions, rider weight and skill, and other bike modifications.
The lengthning and shortening of the wheelbase based on sprocket sizes and the exact distance of change will also vary depending upon rider weight and chain tension.
To all who have ridden a 1000 and a busa with stock gearing, you can notice that the 1000 has less torque(which it does) and revs quicker. Riding the stock busa you know that it revs slower even when accelerating at near identical speeds as the 1000, and you can feel that the busa has more torque(which it does).
Now, put a -1 front sprocket on your busa and tell me it doesn't feel like a 1000. Put the stock front back and add a +3 rear and tell me that it doesn't "feel" as if it has gained a substantional amount of torque.
M Ridgeway as I told him has a very condesending attitude and only laughed at this statement. He also made no effort to defend them other than that I kept saying the same "stupid" thing over and over.
He also made no comment other than "I had wasted my money on a bunch of sprockets"(quite the contrary as I enjoyed trying every combo on every bike). He obviously has never tried this for himself and has limited experience with motorcycles.
I want this arguement to die and not to ruin this thread. I also don't want correct information belittled by someone with a bad attitude who is just spouting misconstrued information he read elsewhere, and who has no personal experience with the subject.
Ikillbugsfast
Registered
what size are the stock sprockets front and rear on the 2011
18/43
I'll spell it out again as best as I know how, and then let it die, as I did not start the arguement.
If you change sprockets on a bike and the engine is unchanged.
The engine's power curve, rpm of peak hp and rev limit do not change.
So changing the gearing lets you move your speed up or down into an optimal rpm range(optimal being where the rider wants it to be).
When you do this you can make less or more use of the torque the engine is outputting at a given rpm range(hp is also calculated from torque).
When a front sprocket is changed for a lower size the engine must work harder to accomplish the same speed as before, the opposite is true for changing the rear for a larger one, (both top speeds are reduced).
This is why -1 does not equal +3 on the rear, no matter how close a 17/43 to an 18/46 ratio is on paper, or their capable top speeds per gear.
Gearing changes are done for 2 reasons, application; 1/8th, 1/4, or 1 mile racing, top speed runs, trackdays, ect., or preference; you like how your bike feels with certain gearing.
Which sprockets are best for dragracing(which seems where the topic went) is dependant upon track/weather conditions, rider weight and skill, and other bike modifications.
The lengthning and shortening of the wheelbase based on sprocket sizes and the exact distance of change will also vary depending upon rider weight and chain tension.
To all who have ridden a 1000 and a busa with stock gearing, you can notice that the 1000 has less torque(which it does) and revs quicker. Riding the stock busa you know that it revs slower even when accelerating at near identical speeds as the 1000, and you can feel that the busa has more torque(which it does).
Now, put a -1 front sprocket on your busa and tell me it doesn't feel like a 1000. Put the stock front back and add a +3 rear and tell me that it doesn't "feel" as if it has gained a substantional amount of torque.
M Ridgeway as I told him has a very condesending attitude and only laughed at this statement. He also made no effort to defend them other than that I kept saying the same "stupid" thing over and over.
He also made no comment other than "I had wasted my money on a bunch of sprockets"(quite the contrary as I enjoyed trying every combo on every bike). He obviously has never tried this for himself and has limited experience with motorcycles.
I want this arguement to die and not to ruin this thread. I also don't want correct information belittled by someone with a bad attitude who is just spouting misconstrued information he read elsewhere, and who has no personal experience with the subject.
It really is as simple as the math. Stock is 18/43=2.388, 17/43=2.529, and 18/46=2.555. This is torque multiplication and is also the reason we have multiple ratios ("gears") in our transmissions. The 2.555 will take more rpm's to go the same mph as the 2.529 but they are close enough you won't notice the difference. Effectively they are the same. There is no mystery "feel" difference or torque vs rev speed.
In theory, there would be slight differences in frictional loss due to winding the chain in a tighter circle around the smaller front gear vs more teeth on the rear. There would also be a difference in rotational inertia. You won't feel either of these.
Now for my credentials: I have run all three of these and combinations and others on 08 Busas. Now I'm running the 18/46 on my street bike because it is easier on the chain, it won't rub on the arm, and because I wanted to buy a cool black rear gear anyway. I added one link to keep the wheelbase close to the same. I drag race 1/8 mile and 1/4 mile. I have owned a liter bike with stock gearing (it revs slower than the Busa in first gear but goes over 100 in first). I am an engineer and worked for the leading class-8 truck transmission manufacturer for 8 years where we made fine and coarse pitch transmissions not because 10/40 has different torque characteristics than 15/60, but because there is a difference in load carrying, noise, and cost.
Depending on the air you are in you will have problems keeping the front end down in first gear. You will gain top end acceleration up to the rpm limiter (or top speed limiter if still equipped) but you will give up some top speed. Do you really need to go 186 mph rather than 174? You may find that the natural vibration of the Busa is at a better or worse rpm for your highway cruising with one ratio or the other. Give it a whirl and if you don't like it, change it back. Cheap fun!
I never said torque changes. It's the ability to make best use of it. Why else would you change gearing? Of course the redline stays the same and the bike can't be revved higher.
Why are you the only one challenging the statement?
Continuing to go with larger sprockets obviously becomes impractical due to size and weight, of course there is a limit. The same is true going smaller, until the diameter is too small.
Why don't you answer my question too? What IS your bike experience? Can you back up your paper claims with real world experience? I doubt it.
You always show up in various threads with your input, which you assume is never wrong.
I've also seen you quietly disapear when you are proven wrong by a 3rd party.
Show me what you can do with a bike. It's hard to when you never ride and it looks pretty in the garage isn't it? How many have you owned? How many have you changed gearing on? How many have you compared time slips with? How many have you wheellied and noticed the differences from gear changes?
Few to none I'de bet.
As I've said before, just because 2 gear ratios are the same on paper does not mean they perform the same in the real world.
You can keep your opinion and condesending attitude out of my posts and responses in future, and we'll agree to disagree. If you had a better attitude maybe more people would be willing to discuss things with you.
i'll admit im wrong all day. but im not. your the dumbass that quoted me. you start dumb **** and feel the need to perpetuate it. ive taken it pm with every person ive had it out on here with and on ever other forum.
i dont care if you are too stupid to understand things. it is math, thats it. ive had 2 motocycles. why dont you tell me how you change gears in my car (which ive had several of and diff ratios from 6.57 to 3.27) and use torque better? let me guess because your stupid bull**** wont change. changes final driven ratios in cars is diff than bikes. youre an idiot i havent disappeared in ****.
you see that? thats you making an idiot out of yourself. not only will that feel like it has more torque because it does. because of the lower ratio and shorter wheelbase.
take your stupid bull**** to a site where people race or show me a time slip. im done with your dumbass and your on my ignore list right next to the idiot that thinks ching chong fairings fit great.
"You've taken it to pm with every person you've had it out with here and on every other forum".
I wonder why there seems to be so many of them? It must be your bad attitude, bad language, disrespect, anger issues and overall poor attitude...and don't pm me. I'm suprised you're still here with such actions.
It would also be adviseable to work on your grammer, punctuation and spelling if you're going to call someone stupid.
I'm also glad you know how to do math, and to set up a ring and pinion, as do I. This discussion was also never about cars no matter what the simularities.
As far as the wheelbase being shorter(or longer), how much also depends on rider weight and chain tension. So it will not always be the same amount.
I'm also glad you've owned two motorcycles and are the authority on everything here, and apparently on other forums.
I'm happy to know I'm on your ignore list and will hopefully never have to deal with you again.
I hope you have a nice day! Really!
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