My busa needz CPR

[cache]

If by "going up" two teeth in the rear you mean you added two teeth.. that'd make it tougher for the bike to move (less torque).

I think the Busa should be able to easily handle it.. just wouldn't stand up as easily with a twist of the throttle.

what ?     yer kiddin right ?

read on brother, he corrected his correction, your correctiveness............

[InsertOriginalNameHere]

what ?     yer kiddin right ?

lol, don't stone the newbie.. I had a slip and forgot you remove teeth from the front and add to the rear for increase in tq!

[rubbersidedown]

What year is your busa?  If its 99-00 there was a problem with the fuel system.  You might wanna check this link out.  But if its not one of these years...disregard and press on.

you'd really feel the fuel starvation deal , I know I did .It stalled , idled like krap , etc etc , you know .

The up 2 at the rear should make it feel likes its charging harder . You'll just lose a few clicks top speed wise .

The clutch thing. Find the steepest hill around , even take a passenger , gun it in one of the taller gears , if yer clutch is bagged you'll find out in a hurry . I dont think your clutch is slipping thou . Too few a miles on her .

[Rhythm]

It'z a 2001

[Daddy Fatsac]

Well beats the hell out of me then. hehe I tried.

[Rhythm]

I appreciate your input Big Daddy>>>>>>>> Good lQQkn out Playa!

[curtis T]

When you loose power...this is how I would start(listed from easy to advanced)
Like mentioned, Verify clutch operation.
Check or replace all filters.
Pull spark plugs, has it been burning lean or rich?(white plug end too lean, black or wet plug end too rich)
if lean, check fuel pressure, pump might be going bad.
If rich, air filter could be restricted with debris.

Further checks would be to perform compression test to find any cylinder leakage do to ring problems or excessive wear and or valve timing or valve adjustment issue.

If you really know what your doing and haven't found a problem with any of the test above, then I would move to testing the fuel managment componets (the sensors that send information to your ECM or computer) they all have Specs. for eather ohm readings or voltage readings. if a sensor looses it's calibration, it will be giving the ECM false information causing possible fuel map changes when not required, this could cause power loss as well.
You need a service manual to find the required specs for this.
And ofcourse for those that don't have a clue what I just posted,or the time and tools, have it checked a your dealer.

[Rhythm]

Will do on the check list ; but I would neva let a dealership touch my baby or some of these cheesy azz wanna bzzzzzzz bike shops around here if I cant get this issue resolved in my own garage I'll take it up to Cleveland and let Dennis (Motorhead)bring it back to life, thankz Curt

[rubbersidedown]

what ?     yer kiddin right ?

lol, don't stone the newbie..

According to Bob Dylan :

"Everybody Must Get Stoned"

...besides , some people like to get stoned... hee hee hee

my appologies bro...sometimes I get lazy,an' dont read ahead . I'm a slo reader.....but I hope 1 day to improve,
my "Hooked on Phonics" tapes on coming soon . hee hee

[SierraFlyer]

This may sound like a wierd question, but did you add fuel stabilizer to the the tank before you stored it? If not it may have varnished in the injectors a little cutting down on the fuel flow. Try runing some injector cleaner?

[InsertOriginalNameHere]

my "Hooked on Phonics" tapes on coming soon

Hooked on Phonics worked for me!

[rubbersidedown]

. Try runing some injector cleaner?

Is there a motorcycle friendly injector cleaner out there?

I'm usually not big on these... "Just pour some of this Krap in your tank and it will solve all of your worries"...types of products . But if anyone knows...I'm all ears....

[Rhythm]

This may sound like a wierd question, but did you add fuel stabilizer to the the tank before you stored it? If not it may have varnished in the injectors a little cutting down on the fuel flow. Try runing some injector cleaner?


Nah no stabiler wuz used . I'll try sum fuel enjector cleaner anyway cant hurt.

I wanna give a SHOUT OUT to all the helpful Playaz that responded to a brau- man in need. Good lQQkn Out

[SLEEPERBUSA]

Put a big can of Berryman B-12 injector cleaner in it!

It says that it treats like 20 gallons.
It won't hurt a thing. That shyt works!

[Rhythm]

Coming from a man with experience like u >>>>>>>>>will do !!!!! Thankz again Pimp (Chris)

[SLEEPERBUSA]

If the injectors are clean, it won't do a thing, but if they are dirty, it'll help.
I wouldn't steer a Brotha in the wrong direction!

[BusaDlr]

I love reading this "olde" thread!. Howdy. I’m new to THIS forum, so please be kind to an old Phart.

I am the original owner of my 2003 40th Anniversary ‘Busa, and it’s been a "dealer’s bike" since new. I’ve never had an issue with it, before now. The bike is "bone stock", except for a K&N air filter and Leo Vince exhaust. After it sat for well over a year, (family stuff — don’t ask), it now won’t start. It had Stabil in the fuel. The fuel pump wasn’t kicking on (at first; it runs now), so I checked the fuse, fuel pump relay, tip-over sensor, etc., and AOK. gotta have something wrong with/ the fuel pump, right? So it’s into the tank we go. YUCK! Everything in there was olive drab in color. After pulling the pump out, I hooked it directly to 12V and (after a coupla ON/OFF cycles, the pump started to run. Good (I thought). NOPE. The bike still wouldn’t start, using . Fuel filter clogged? Let’s check. Took the pump apart and swapped out the filter on the pump intake. All parts (now clean with new gas), tried it again. NOPE! OK, let’s check out the fuel pressure. It produced about 60psi while the pump was running but fell off to zero within a second after it stopped. Hmmm… pressure regulator stuck open? OK, took it all apart again and tested the regulator w/ compressed air @ 60psi. The bypass (high pressure condition) worked fine. When the air-tank pressure got below 45psi, the bypass closed (as it should) and it held the air pressure. Thinking that maybe the air had blown all of the olive drab crappola out of the regulator, and unstuck it, I put it all back together and tried again. NOPE! drat… In an obscure part of the service manual it mentioned a "fuel pump check valve"; there is no indication I can find of where it is! Must be internal to the pump assembly, but where? Any ideas of how I can check this out?

I’m kinda glad I’m not paying a dealer for all of my labor on this.

[jwcfbd]

I love reading this "olde" thread!. Howdy. I’m new to THIS forum, so please be kind to an old Phart.

I am the original owner of my 2003 40th Anniversary ‘Busa, and it’s been a "dealer’s bike" since new. I’ve never had an issue with it, before now. The bike is "bone stock", except for a K&N air filter and Leo Vince exhaust. After it sat for well over a year, (family stuff — don’t ask), it now won’t start. It had Stabil in the fuel. The fuel pump wasn’t kicking on (at first; it runs now), so I checked the fuse, fuel pump relay, tip-over sensor, etc., and AOK. gotta have something wrong with/ the fuel pump, right? So it’s into the tank we go. YUCK! Everything in there was olive drab in color. After pulling the pump out, I hooked it directly to 12V and (after a coupla ON/OFF cycles, the pump started to run. Good (I thought). NOPE. The bike still wouldn’t start, using . Fuel filter clogged? Let’s check. Took the pump apart and swapped out the filter on the pump intake. All parts (now clean with new gas), tried it again. NOPE! OK, let’s check out the fuel pressure. It produced about 60psi while the pump was running but fell off to zero within a second after it stopped. Hmmm… pressure regulator stuck open? OK, took it all apart again and tested the regulator w/ compressed air @ 60psi. The bypass (high pressure condition) worked fine. When the air-tank pressure got below 45psi, the bypass closed (as it should) and it held the air pressure. Thinking that maybe the air had blown all of the olive drab crappola out of the regulator, and unstuck it, I put it all back together and tried again. NOPE! drat… In an obscure part of the service manual it mentioned a "fuel pump check valve"; there is no indication I can find of where it is! Must be internal to the pump assembly, but where? Any ideas of how I can check this out?

I’m kinda glad I’m not paying a dealer for all of my labor on this.

Here is a picture of the pump showing the check valve. Have you checked the injectors? Here's a picture of the injector as well showing a filter in it.

[202mphbusa]

compression test
and or leak down test
send the injectors to Schnitz or someone to clean and flow test

[BusaDlr]

Thank you for the quick replies, folks. All this from a tank of really lousy, dirty gas.

I love the drawings! I figure that the fuel has already gone thru 2 filters, by the time it leaves the tank and heads to the injectors. This would seem to indicate that the lowest-pass (finest) filters are in the injectors? At this point, I’m thinking that a sticking check valve might explain the slow leak from the fuel tank, when the S-shaped fuel line is disconnected, but not explain why there’s no fuel getting to the cylinders. (The engine does run if I spray throttle-body cleaner into the intakes. However, it quickly dies.) I did the pump tests called out in the service manual, and it’s producing good pressure and flow, so that seems to me to say that the failure to run MUST be in the injectors, as "jwcfbd" and "202mphbusa" suggest. Are those injector filters replaceable? Available? Guess it’s time to study up on the injectors.

I’m not familiar w/ "Schnitz", but evidently I should be.

I apologize for the newbie questions, guys. It was a lot easier when I owned a dealership and had an ace tech who knew all this.

Thanks again for tolerating my inexperience.