New brake lines and pads, waste of time $$

[Nicholas]

Oh PLEASE!

This bike is better than anyone on this forum, and if you're using all of its muscle on the street, well, all I can say is I hope you rest in peace! I'll stick to anticipating dangerous situations and avoiding them before they happen. It's enabled me to stay riding for over 35 years and, even at 52, I can assure you I do NOT "just put put around."

All you blokes who want to spend a lot of money "upgrading" an already close to perfect bike have at it. It's your money and your bike. But this man changed to braided lines and thought it was a waste of time and money and shared his opinion with us. And because he bruised a few egos who disagree with him he's told he doesn't know how to bleed a line and/or he doesn't know how to ride?

Sheesh!

wow ignorance is amazing... i have had my brakes fail on me from them getting too hot from braking hard without giving them time to cool down at all.. so u have alot to learn and need to ride more before u make judgments about anything without.. its always the people that say they been riding for all these number of years but yet they ride a 1980-90's sport bike and then jump on a busa and thinks its perfect,..... alot of upgrades from the **** ur use to but no where near perfect so maybe one day when u stop riding 50 in 6th gear u will understand... untill then stop making urself look like a complete idiot

 

[Johnnycheese]

AGAIN what pads were installed enough said

 

[kml]

mnnnnnn.... popcorn.......

 

[Tufbusa]

AGAIN what pads were installed enough said

I'm happy to see we have at least one among us that has a grasp on brakes. Steel lines have absolutely no effect on braking. Steel lines have an effect on brake feel but does not add one ounce of additional pressure to the calipers.

Even the popular HH pads won't really stop you any faster. They are simply more agressive and require less lever force. Although some are more effecient than stock when heated (Less brake fade). You can lift the rear tire with stock brakes just the same as with steel lines and HH pads, it just takes a bit more pull on the lever.

Braking is about pressure and pad grip. You can upgrade to cast rotors that will allow better grip for the pads but they are very expensive and wear out quicker.

 

[teryx]

AGAIN what pads were installed enough said

vesrah pads

 

[raydog]

Mr. Critterdoc, your agressive tone coupled with your statement about your vast experience seem to reduce your credibility on this subject. Anyone that has ridden the stock Hayabusa hard enough in the heat to experience moderate to severe fade, understands the OEM shortcomings. Some may be happy with OEM braking for 100k miles, that is fine. Can we acknowledge that both perspectives are valid?
My Busa's brakes were highly modified because I'm heavy, I ride hard, and I want 2 finger pressure to remain the same all day. I don't care if you are Carlos Checa, you can't trump my personal experience with my motorcycle.
BTW, I suggest none of you should get personal, especially towards someone like Tufbusa......you have no idea whom you are talking about. Raydog

 

[kml]

Busa's come stock with HH pads.

No kidding.

cheers
ken

mnnn...... popcorn....

 

[raydog]

What a load of utter bollocks. - Suzuki made the world's fastest bike, and then deliberately put under-powered brakes on it, so that riders "wouldn't get themselves into trouble"?
You voted for Obama, didn't you?

Rainbow7, as a matter of fact, a Suzuki executive told me the exact same thing.....that "a softer brake is a brake that gets less people in trouble". Also, I did vote for Obama, does that mean I know nothing about motorcycles? Keep your politics down under, this is a "motorcycle related topics" only thread. Raydog

 

[fiend]

mnnnnnn.... popcorn.......

Pass some over here lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[teryx]

Its so much fun to get bashed by a 21 or 22 year old expert on this forum, I really love the, "entry level motorcycle tech" telling me with his vast experiance, that i cant ride or bleed brakes."I vacuum and pressure bleed" they work as good as they can,"which aint bad". Boy if I just did more "stoppies" I would earn there respectStay alive on the road for another 30 years , maybe then I will listen

 

[theskaz]

Its so much fun to get bashed by a 21 or 22 year old expert on this forum, I really love the, "entry level motorcycle tech" telling me with his vast experiance, that i cant ride or bleed brakes."I vacuum and pressure bleed" they work as good as they can,"which aint bad". Boy if I just did more "stoppies" I would earn there respectStay alive on the road for another 30 years , maybe then I will listen

I hope that wasn't pointed at Raydog or Tufbusa.... If so, you are in for a rude awakening...

 

[teryx]

I hope that wasn't pointed at Raydog or Tufbusa.... If so, you are in for a rude awakening...

No, those two do know a thing or 2 about motorcycles,

 

[scrappy]

I'm happy to see we have at least one among us that has a grasp on brakes. Steel lines have absolutely no effect on braking. Steel lines have an effect on brake feel but does not add one ounce of additional pressure to the calipers.

Even the popular HH pads won't really stop you any faster. They are simply more agressive and require less lever force. Although some are more effecient than stock when heated (Less brake fade). You can lift the rear tire with stock brakes just the same as with steel lines and HH pads, it just takes a bit more pull on the lever.

Braking is about pressure and pad grip. You can upgrade to cast rotors that will allow better grip for the pads but they are very expensive and wear out quicker.

That is not true, the reason i replaced my OEM lines with steel lines is because the OEM lines were starting to flex out when pressure was applied causing less pressure to reach the caliper and thereby causing less braking friction. You may have not had a problem but i know i did and when i replaced the lines i noticed a massive difference, also i had the same brake pads that were on it before and after i replaced the lines. I know i can say in honesty that the lines i installed are doing their job and they are doing it very well..

 

[Tufbusa]

That is not true, the reason i replaced my OEM lines with steel lines is because the OEM lines were starting to flex out when pressure was applied causing less pressure to reach the caliper and thereby causing less braking friction. You may have not had a problem but i know i did and when i replaced the lines i noticed a massive difference, also i had the same brake pads that were on it before and after i replaced the lines. I know i can say in honesty that the lines i installed are doing their job and they are doing it very well..

What you noticed was a difference in feel. You gained no additional stopping power with the new steel braided lines. No matter how much the old lines may have flexed it did not change the pressure applied to the pads. It merely took a bit more lever travel to fill the void of the stretch. The pressure remained the same!

 

[Tufbusa]

One thing I'll add! All you guys should change your brake fluid every spring irregardless of how much or how little you ride.

Use a good quality dot 4 fluid with the highest boiling point you can find. I'd stay away from the cheap stuff you get off the shelf at your local auto store or walmart.

Another tip! If you use a vacuum pump to bleed your system be sure to avoid pushing the fluid through the system with air unless you have a diaphragm between the fluid and the air. If air is used to push the fluid directly you will penetrate the fluid with air bubbles so tiny that it's difficult if not impossible to bleed out. These tiny air bubbles will carry moisture which will produce steam when heated and give you early brake fade.

 

[scrappy]

What you noticed was a difference in feel. You gained no additional stopping power with the new steel braided lines. No matter how much the old lines may have flexed it did not change the pressure applied to the pads. It merely took a bit more lever travel to fill the void of the stretch. The pressure remained the same!

What i gained was performance. If braking requires less effort because my fingers travel less distance to get the same result in a greater distance then i have gained performance, more so than just feel. I can feel the pressure build by applying the braking lever, but i also get better performance because it requires less work from the rider (me).

I bet if i put brand new OEM lines back on then i would get the same feel that i do with the steel lines. However my OEM lines were worn out, flexing and were a serious hazard. One reason i went to the steel lines is because they have a lifetime warranty, so putting rubber lines on every two years would not be cost effective.

 

[Johnnycheese]

Again The pads install are POS quit crying and go ride

 

[m_ridgeway]

What you noticed was a difference in feel. You gained no additional stopping power with the new steel braided lines. No matter how much the old lines may have flexed it did not change the pressure applied to the pads. It merely took a bit more lever travel to fill the void of the stretch. The pressure remained the same!

you sir need to go back and read pg 76 of your owners manual

 

[BusaWizard]

I also voted for President Obama; and changing your brake lines and pads will make a difference.

 

[fallenarch]

One thing I'll add! All you guys should change your brake fluid every spring irregardless of how much or how little you ride.

Use a good quality dot 4 fluid with the highest boiling point you can find. I'd stay away from the cheap stuff you get off the shelf at your local auto store or walmart.

Another tip! If you use a vacuum pump to bleed your system be sure to avoid pushing the fluid through the system with air unless you have a diaphragm between the fluid and the air. If air is used to push the fluid directly you will penetrate the fluid with air bubbles so tiny that it's difficult if not impossible to bleed out. These tiny air bubbles will carry moisture which will produce steam when heated and give you early brake fade.

Also if you switched to a radial MC like the Brembo, remember to bleed at the caliper and at the MC up top. Otherwise you will pour bottles of expensive brake fluid through the system before you realize it is never going to firm up. Not saying how I learned that lesson

So, my question to Tufbusa: How much difference do rotors really make on a mainly street ridden bike. I ride pretty hard but not crazy and I am a hefty fellow. I have Brembo MC, SS lines, EBC HH pads, stock calipers and stock rotors. No problems and the feel is amazing, but those rotars look cool and it's Christmas and all .......