Draco1340
Registered
I have been tuning using on board logging on all of my race vehicles since 98. Its a pretty valuable tool, and its good to see more people use it. A couple of things to keep in mind if you log though the ECU interface
The woolrich log box gets its analog data through the ECU interface that is similar to the OBD interface of all modern cars. The 32 bit ECU is fairly fast but they update the interface very slowly. When I looked into buying one, the interface only updated itself (from memory) only about 10 times a second. A direct logger that takes its analog signals directly off the sensors (RPM, TPS, MAP, etc.) collect them at 20 to 50 times a second. So what this means is that you probably want to avoid tuning in lower gears where RPM and AFR are changing very very quickly. Further more you want to know EXACTLY what RPM you have that lean of fat spot in, so if you are only collecting a data point every 100 milliseconds, and the rpm is changing 2000 rpm in that time window, you really have no idea what the AFR is at any given RPM. Don't trust data just because you have a number. Tuning in 3rd or 4th gear is not a problem however, and the level of tune you get logging is far superior to a dyno.
Second, you will find with logging that your tune changes constantly. It changes with the weather that day. It changes with the seasonal blend changes in gasoline. It changes with the seasons. It changes with the temperature of the engine. It is a modern myth that modern fuel injection and sensors compensate for all the different changes the motor sees. That's crap. I have seen the Density Altitude on a fall day go from 1800' at noon time to -300' by 4PM. The Air Fuel Ratio on a normally aspirated Busa changed accordingly from 13.0 - 13.2 all the way up to 13.6. That's overly fat to dangerously lean and on the edge of detonation. In 4 hours. You would think the temperature and air density sensors would compensate, but they don't. A responsible tuner will tune a bit fat knowing that the next tank of gasoline might push the motor to the lean side, so they leave meat on the table. When you begin tuning you can really wring the Btch out, but you need to make sure that it stays safe and adjust accordingly. I have seen the most power on a Gen II at 13.4 to 13.5 or even 13.6 in spots with the right fuel and timing, but I would log every pass to be safe. I run N2O on my own race bike in part because the weather has much less affect. The blizzard is in the bottle so to speak.
Some other minor things to keep in mind.
Hopefully this was helpful.
The woolrich log box gets its analog data through the ECU interface that is similar to the OBD interface of all modern cars. The 32 bit ECU is fairly fast but they update the interface very slowly. When I looked into buying one, the interface only updated itself (from memory) only about 10 times a second. A direct logger that takes its analog signals directly off the sensors (RPM, TPS, MAP, etc.) collect them at 20 to 50 times a second. So what this means is that you probably want to avoid tuning in lower gears where RPM and AFR are changing very very quickly. Further more you want to know EXACTLY what RPM you have that lean of fat spot in, so if you are only collecting a data point every 100 milliseconds, and the rpm is changing 2000 rpm in that time window, you really have no idea what the AFR is at any given RPM. Don't trust data just because you have a number. Tuning in 3rd or 4th gear is not a problem however, and the level of tune you get logging is far superior to a dyno.
Second, you will find with logging that your tune changes constantly. It changes with the weather that day. It changes with the seasonal blend changes in gasoline. It changes with the seasons. It changes with the temperature of the engine. It is a modern myth that modern fuel injection and sensors compensate for all the different changes the motor sees. That's crap. I have seen the Density Altitude on a fall day go from 1800' at noon time to -300' by 4PM. The Air Fuel Ratio on a normally aspirated Busa changed accordingly from 13.0 - 13.2 all the way up to 13.6. That's overly fat to dangerously lean and on the edge of detonation. In 4 hours. You would think the temperature and air density sensors would compensate, but they don't. A responsible tuner will tune a bit fat knowing that the next tank of gasoline might push the motor to the lean side, so they leave meat on the table. When you begin tuning you can really wring the Btch out, but you need to make sure that it stays safe and adjust accordingly. I have seen the most power on a Gen II at 13.4 to 13.5 or even 13.6 in spots with the right fuel and timing, but I would log every pass to be safe. I run N2O on my own race bike in part because the weather has much less affect. The blizzard is in the bottle so to speak.
Some other minor things to keep in mind.
- Don't run the bike without having the O2 sensor powered. That will kill them.
- If you kill your sensor, Auto Zone has them for ~$60. No need to buy from Innovate.
- You can run leaded gas with an O2 sensor. The directions say no, but you can get a couple of years of of them with Lead.
- Most modified Busa's and ZX14 will throw O2 sensor errors at high RPMs. This is caused by overheating. Nitrious will definietly do this. You need to buy the radiator adapter.
- If you decide to get your RMP signal direct, and not through the ECU interface, DON't use the stick coil for the signal source. It will NEVER work even though instructions tell you to. Use the fuel injector as the signal source. That signal is much more stable than the coil.
Hopefully this was helpful.
