Woolich Logbox and Innovate Motorsports LC-1 anyone?

beachz

Registered
I just got my LC-1 in the mail and I will be starting the install soon. I already have the logbox and have been running it since last summer. If anyone has anyone has any suggestions, insight, or lessons learned I would love to hear 'em. :thumbsup:


IMG_20130204_182433.jpg
 
No personal experience, but it's on my list when cash allows.
I have been doing alot of reading on the B-King forum though.
There is more info there than here, and of course the B-King has the same mechanical engine.
The B-King ecu can be flashed as a Busa too(mine is), so anything you read there will apply.
This is one of a few links, and is by Justin from Woolrich himself.
He answers questions throughout it's many pages.
Hope it helps:beerchug:

Log in
 
Thanks SixPack! I have been following JW and Greg in a few places and posted a couple of initial questions on new WoolichRacing forum. I will check out the B-King forum. If you haven't already been there, check out his new forum and Woolich Racing Tuned software. I think this is where the Woolich team will be concentrating most of their effort.

WoolichRacing.com Forum
 
Thanks SixPack! I have been following JW and Greg in a few places and posted a couple of initial questions on new WoolichRacing forum. I will check out the B-King forum. If you haven't already been there, check out his new forum and Woolich Racing Tuned software. I think this is where the Woolich team will be concentrating most of their effort.

WoolichRacing.com Forum

Thank you sir, I'll check it out:beerchug:
 
Let me start by saying I AM NOT A TUNER! I am just a rider that wants to be able to add/change parts on my bike without having to get the bike dyno tuned every time I mod something. I would much rather spend my time in the saddle than tinkering (sort of). There is not a tuner within four hours of me that I trust and has experience with the Woolich system. I just found a recent thread about one of our members running a full exhaust without a tune and catastrophic failure occurred at around 17k miles. I cannot afford that either monetarily or emotionally. :D I am not looking to eek every available pony out of my Busa as required by you guys running down the 1/4. I do however want the bike to run close to its potential with the peace of mind that I am not leaning out and risking catastrophic failure.

I am going to put some general information in this post for future reference for myself and anyone else that my want to go this route in the future. Some of you already know a lot of this information and some don't so please just skip through the fundamentals if you already know the deal. I still haven't found a good single source thread for this setup/configuration. I am not saying it isn't out there, just that I haven't found it. If anyone is aware of such a thread, I welcome you to add it to this posting. I will attempt to post accurate information but if you see something that is wrong, do not hesitate to call me on it.

I am currently running the Woolich Racing Logbox which has the ability to read and flash the bikes ECU. This is not a piggyback system, rather an interface to alter/modify the factory settings with complete control. There is also a built in "factory" program so that you can start from scratch if you feel you have screwed something up. When hooked to the bike, you can also log data from the ECU and "Autotune" based on the data you log. I am currently running the stock narrow band O2 sensor which is less than ideal for logging data to autotune with. Below you will find information regarding the difference between narrow an wide band sensors and how they send data to the ECU, gauge, and/or real-time tuning system. As stated above, I am preparing to install the LC-1 to send accurate A/F data to my logbox so that I can accurately autotune my bike for my mods.

That is enough for today and I will post some more links and pics as I move forward. BTW, I bought the LC-1 kit pictured above factory sealed for $157.60 shipped from a reputable distributor off of eBay.




From here: Auto Meter

Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge vs. Narrowband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge

To fully understand why a high performance vehicle tuner would be better off using a wide-band O2 sensor/gauge versus a narrow band setup, we must first understand what each sensor was originally developed to do.


Narrow Band O2 Sensors began to appear on vehicles with the advent of fuel injection in the 1980's. Their purpose was to monitor component degradation (i.e. fuel injectors, vacuum leaks) of vehicles as they accumulated miles. Their basic job was to let the computer know whether the vehicle was running at an air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1 under idle (ideal ratio for gasoline engines), moderate acceleration, and cruise conditions, and if it wasn't, to "trim" the injector pulse-width to either slightly lean or richen the engine. When the computer is paying attention to the input from the O2 sensor, the engine is operating in a "closed-loop" capacity. Under heavier acceleration or wide-open throttle the computer ignores the O2 sensor because it requires an air/fuel ratio other than 14.7:1, which is outside the design parameters of the sensor. This is known as "open-loop" operation. The sensor lets the computer know if the engine is running above or below 14.7:1 by sending voltage to the computer in a range between 0 and 1 volt, usually sweeping between the two extremes of this scale. Auto Meter's traditional narrow-band air/fuel ratio gauges are simply a voltmeter for this signal. This can be seen by the repeated sweeping back and forth of the gauge in most idle, light throttle, and cruise conditions. To summarize, a narrow band O2 sensor is only able to tell a computer (or gauge, for that matter) whether an engine is operating above or below a 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio.


Wide Band O2 Sensors where developed in the early '90s as vehicle manufacturers began looking to obtain air/fuel ratio information under all circumstances. This ranged from WOT to varying ratios, for example running air/fuel ratios leaner than 14.7:1 under cruise conditions. Volkswagen and Honda pioneered the development of the wide-band O2 sensors to provide accurate air-fuel ratios under these varying circumstances. They did this by broadening the voltage range in which feedback from the sensor was provided and making a linear scale that provided a fixed voltage that correlated to a specific air/fuel ratio.


Hope you enjoyed today's installment. Tune in next time for my post on tuning software options. :)
 
Datalogging is more efficiant than dyno tuning.
So technically, you will be "eeking" all the available power out of it.:laugh:

Looking forward to seeing how it goes for you.
 
have both installed on my bike great setup just remember to recal the o2 sensor every now and then, and dont data log for idle or clutch pulled in it will mess your map up i had to learn the hard way
 
Thanks pal! :beerchug: I will try to keep up with this thread so I can turn it into a How To... if I don't blow something up. :laugh:

We are close enough we need to ride sometime.
 
Thanks pal! :beerchug: I will try to keep up with this thread so I can turn it into a How To... if I don't blow something up. :laugh:

We are close enough we need to ride sometime.

If you wanna head this way and ride the Blue Ridge Parkway when it warms up, let me know.
I ride all year too, but bike is broke at the moment.
I'm also a half cripple and no way can I ride 4 hrs of slab out your way:laugh:
 
Wow, sorry to hear. I hope you are both back 100% soon. Maybe when it gets nice I can talk Earlybird, CrazyArch, and my buddy in NoVa with a VMax (who has been ragging me about doing the parkway) into a weekend trip or something. :thumbsup:
 
I have the exact setup, and am very happy with how well it all works. I don't even use the gauge, I just log it all and tune. When I make changes, I repeat the process. You will never look back!:thumbsup:
 
I have the exact setup, and am very happy with how well it all works. I don't even use the gauge, I just log it all and tune. When I make changes, I repeat the process. You will never look back!:thumbsup:

Thanks Stevo! I was thinking of temporarily mounting the guage in an extra (already damaged) right side fairing filler (between the tank and the tupperware) just so I can see what it's doing when I get started. If you don't mind, could I ask you where you mounted the unit and what switchable 12v lead you tied into?

Did the knife come with the kit?


Haha, sorry no. If it did I would have ordered several because the knife was almost as much as the kit. :) It doesn't come camo'd though. I did that myself. :thumbsup:
 
Oh gosh, I don't recall on the wire I used for power, I think it's tied into the rear tail light stuff. I installed mine fall of 11 so a little while ago. The big part of the LC1 is just laying under the tank. I never worried about making it permanent and attaching it to anything.
 
Thanks. That's cool. I don't even remember what I had for lunch today. :laugh: I was thinking under the tank was where I was going to look first. I appreciate the input! :thumbsup:
 
Ive been using the log box, with the factory narrow band, I too just got the LC1, and I'm getting ready to install. Couple of questions for those running the setup already...

Did you use the inovate adaptor or did you weld a new bung in the pipe?

If you welded a new adaptor, did you put it far enough back to catch all 4 cyl, or are you just getting data from 2?

Pics of the installs would be great :-)

Thanks guys
 
Back
Top