who changes their own tires?

[Mythos]

I agree. I like doing my own work, too. This is really kicking my @$$ though. I got the next two irons in and the rim protector is actually bending--pulling forward over the edge of the rim! I'd have to show a pic to explain. I'm going to try the straight ends of the irons and I think I will end up cutting the bead with a dremmel or a wire cutter to loosen it up. I can't see going all the way around the rim like this. The tire is 6 years old. Maybe it is a lot harder than a new tire.

Here's my main concern: The tire is TIGHT around the wheel. The bead is broken, the tire pushes down toward the center of the wheel but there is still no room to slide an iron under it. Is it bad to scratch the paint on the inside of the rim? I know you def don't want touch the bead surface of the rim but how about the rest of the inside of the rim?

 

[Tufbusa]

I went through the manual tire changing thing with tire irons, sweat and frustrations. I now have a power machine that makes tire mounting a piece of cake. I actually bent a rim with a tire iron trying to get a 50 series touring tire off. I got tired of removing a rotor in order to remove the tire from a front wheel.

I have no idea why but I seem to have generated lots of additional friends once I had a real tire machine in the garage?

 

[1 wheel peel]

I have a Black Widow tire changing stand, 4 rim protectors and 3 fifteen inch tire irons (the ones with the curved end to reach around the edge of the rim).

All I can say is that the first bite was as much of a beech as levering up the tire on my ZX-14 or Carrozzeria rim halfway around. Is there ANY drop center in the stock busa rim? .....

I have not used that type of stand. I bought a NoMar a couple of years ago after having used a friend’s.

The first time I changed tires on my C14 (the hoop is the same as the ZX) it was very difficult just because of the very reasons you mentioned. Bought an `09 from a guy in 2012 who just never rode it. The bike had 1,100 miles on it. The stock OEM tires were hard as rocks. I was able to eventually get them off but it was a royal pain and I have my NoMar bolted to the slab. There have been many changed on it since and while they are much easier because they are not as hard they are still a pain! The front wheel is actually easier because it does have more of a valley/drop in it. I have seen people use a hacksaw and cut through the tire right up to the bead and then use something like a die grinder or dremal to cut the rest of it.

The rear BST on my B-King is the same way. It may be a little worse only because the carcasses on the Q3’s are much stiffer than those of the PR3's that I run on the C14. If you ride much it doesn't take long for good mounting system to pay for it's self. We keep track of the number of tires done and between friends and family we are just shy of 50 tires in the 2-3yrs that I have had it.

 

[brpo]

My set up...

 

[Mythos]

" I actually bent a rim with a tire iron trying to get a 50 series touring tire off. I got tired of removing a rotor in order to remove the tire from a front wheel. "
That's what I'm afraid of. I don't think I've bent anything yet. If I didn't bend the Carros, I don't think these were damaged. I guess I will take the hint and remove the front rotors. That means puttingthe wheel back on to loosen the bolts.

" I have seen people use a hacksaw and cut through the tire right up to the bead and then use something like a die grinder or dremal to cut the rest of it."
That's what I'm going to end up doing. I'm afraid to pull the iron out that is resting on that deformed rim protector. I think the rim protector will pull out with it. Everything is all wired in place. dig out the dremmel and the hacksaw. Hope the new tires are easier because you can't cheat on those.

 

[Mythos]

Here is the problem I am having. There is a vertical bead surface against the rim and there is a horizontal bead surface more inside the wheel. I am try ing not to touch either.



I had two irons in and I cannot get a third in there. The pressure to lift the second iron out was a lot and I think I'd be afraid of bending the rim by levering the third bite out if I could get an iron in. You can see the rim protector on the left is pulling over the edge in the pic below. This is only the first bite.

I took the irons out and stared a second time only to have the same thing happen.

Now, I got my dremmel out and sliced through the bead to relive some tension so hopefully I will be able to get another iron in there. There is a steel band around the edge of the tire bead. Should I cut the steel band with the irons in there? It is very tight. The irons are wired down but I'm apprehensive. Will the tire snap like a rubber band and send stuff flying? I don'y want ti hurt myself. If you work in a tire shop or have ever tried this, please advise.

You can see the steel band inside the middle cut.

 

[Hayabusawannabe]

I watched this video and thought about it but then I changed my mind because I live in an appartment. My mechanic only charges $100 bucks for both so oh well. It doesn't look too hard though.

 

[VFRcanada]

Do you have the other side of the tire pushed down into the center of the rim? You can wedge some boards in between the rim and the tire to hold the tire down. Lots of soapy water too.

 

[RedBusarider]

I don't think cutting the band will make things go flying. But I also don't think it needs to be cut.
Once you get the edge up over the wheel, things will start to go better.
Use lots of soapy water to help it slip over the edge of the wheel.

Where are you Mythos? PM me if you don't want to tell the world.

If you were near me I would have changed them for free.

 

[Mythos]

"I watched this video and thought about it but then I changed my mind because I live in an appartment."
LOL Living in an apartment has nothing to do with it. Truth is, unless you change tires pretty often, aint no wayyyy they'll fall off the rim like they do in that video.
These are 6 year old stock tires. They seem much harder than the tires that guy is removing. MUCH harder.

"Do you have the other side of the tire pushed down into the center of the rim?"
Yes. I pushed it down to help give some slack on the first attempt. Then I realized how much force I was going to need to exert to pull it back up when I got just a little further around the rim. No way I could get a third iron in there. Like I would need to drive it in with a sledge hammer (not going to happen).

Second attempt, I pulled the irons and started all over. The bead on the opposite side slid down to center on its own. Same trouble. How to get a third iron in there. It's super tight.

"I don't think cutting the band will make things go flying. But I also don't think it needs to be cut.
Once you get the edge up over the wheel, things will start to go better.
Use lots of soapy water to help it slip over the edge of the wheel.
OK that's it. I got three "no problem" feedbacks between the other forum I'm on and a friend who stopped over. I'll try to cut the band.

Based on my last tire changing experience, I'd agree that it doesn't normally need to be cut. The problem is getting the next iron in.

Where are you Mythos? PM me if you don't want to tell the world.
Milwaukee.

If you were near me I would have changed them for free."
Thanks for the offer, RBR. A little far this time. Thanks for the input though. That helps a lot all by itself. I'll post the outcome of the bead band cutting.

Quick little story. I had a Yamaha DT-100 when I was young. all offroad. Tires were 4-5 years old when my Dad TRIED to help me change them at his shop. The stock rims were very cheap like stamped out tin. I busted my butt trying to get them off and the employees just shook their heads. Dad wouldn't give up. I tried on e side and then the other. We tried cutting across the tread and hit steel belts. I had to hack saw. If I recall, we cut all around the whole tread with a jigsaw and left the beads on. Tried cutting the bead and hit a steel band. I think one of the guys cut it with a dremmel but I don't remember how he did it. In the end, I had the beads all scraped and it finally bent in one spot. I missed the whole summer of riding. Dad finally relented. Think I got a new rim and had a tire shop install the tires. I was completely steamed. Rather traumatic. This is why I am nervous about levering on a rim...but this time, I think for good reason.

 

[brpo]

Looks like your technique is bad. The opposite side of the bead needs to be in the relief channel whether going on or off. And you need lube in the right places. Also - I recommend changing tires on a hot day. Set the tire on black top and let it bake. In the winter I have a space heater to warm the tire.

 

[brpo]

I can't tell from the picture but it doesn't look like the bead is broken that is off the outer rim and in the relief channel. Getting the tire off is usually the easier part of the process. Also, you don't need to remove the rotor if you get a tire changer. Save a old tire and put it beneath the wheel while you break the bead.

 

[Mythos]

"The opposite side of the bead needs to be in the relief channel whether going on or off."
Yes, it is. The top bead on the opposite side pulled down into the center on its own when I levered the first bite up. Do you think pulling the bottom bead up all around might help too?


"I can't tell from the picture but it doesn't look like the bead is broken that is off the outer rim and in the relief channel."
The bead was separated from the rim all the way around on both beads with the bead breaker on my tire changing stand. There is nothing else to breaking the bead other than to separate it from the rim, right?

 

[brpo]

"The opposite side of the bead needs to be in the relief channel whether going on or off."
Yes, it is. The top bead on the opposite side pulled down into the center on its own when I levered the first bite up. Do you think pulling the bottom bead up all around might help too?


"I can't tell from the picture but it doesn't look like the bead is broken that is off the outer rim and in the relief channel."
The bead was separated from the rim all the way around on both beads with the bead breaker on my tire changing stand. There is nothing else to breaking the bead other than to separate it from the rim, right?

OK - I got you... the bead is broken, but the bead that I see in the picture still looks very very tight. Really I think you need to be working the tire/bead from the opposite side. Lifting the bottom and pushing down on the top of the opposite side to the tire. Once you get it lined up right usually you only need two bites maybe three of the irons and it should un-rim. Also - it doesn't look like there is any lube on that outside edge of the bead. Good Luck...

 

[brpo]

One other thing - the irons should not be together at anytime - you should be grabbing the bead with the second iron in from a quarter the way around the tire a sliding it around the until it bits then then pull the bead over.

 

[RedBusarider]

If you haven't got your tire off yet a thought just occurred to me.

Maybe you can't do this BUT can you turn the wheel over? I don't know if your stand will allow this.
When I changed mine I had the rotor facing down. Just a thought. Maybe the other side of the tire COULD
be a little more pliable and easier to get over the rim?

Also you said that you can't get 3 tire irons in at the same time.

Could you put all 3 in BEFORE you start to pull back? Then you wouldn't need to force the third one in as
it would already be there. Just a thought.

 

[VFRcanada]

Try putting the two tire irons farther apart, 8-10 inches. Once you pry them back you should be able to remove one and reposition it a little farther around the tire and pry. Then remove the first tire iron. The tire will be far enough over the rim it won't slip back on. More lube too.

 

[Mythos]

"Really I think you need to be working the tire/bead from the opposite side. Lifting the bottom and pushing down on the top of the opposite side to the tire. "
Yeah, I had someone else suggest that. Maybe a C-clamo or a bead breaker clamp to pinch the two beads together at the center would loosen it up just enough.

One other thing - the irons should not be together at anytime - you should be grabbing the bead with the second iron in from a quarter the way around the tire a sliding it around the until it bits then then pull the bead over.
I just have those two side by side in the pic because I was afraid the rim protector was going roll over the edge when I let the bead back down. Just a precaution. It should be easy to take bigger jumps on the first three bites, I know.

Maybe you can't do this BUT can you turn the wheel over?
Sure, if I take the irons out, I could try the other side but I have no reason to think it would be softer than the rotor side. + I would have the sprocket coupling sticking up which does not allow the levers to be pushed down as far---if that should be necessary. I have removed from the sprocket side on other rims.

Could you put all 3 in BEFORE you start to pull back? Then you wouldn't need to force the third one in as
it would already be there. Just a thought.
Great suggestion! I might be able to use that although I think I'd be afraid to bend the rim by prying the 3rd one up. Might still come in handy though if I can get the bead to not be so tight.

"Try putting the two tire irons farther apart, 8-10 inches."
Maybe I will try that along with the suggestion to insert all the irons first before lifting. Also try to C-clamp the opposite beads together at center. If that doesn't work.........I cut.

I may just cut before trying anything else. I'm a little concerned about scratching the bead surface now that the steel bead ring is exposed.

 

[VFRcanada]

"Try putting the two tire irons farther apart, 8-10 inches."[/B]
Maybe I will try that along with the suggestion to insert all the irons first before lifting. Also try to C-clamp the opposite beads together at center. If that doesn't work.........I cut.

I may just cut before trying anything else. I'm a little concerned about scratching the bead surface now that the steel bead ring is exposed.

No need to clamp the two sides together. The top side of the tire will come off even if the bottom is still on the rim. Taking the old tire off is usually easier than putting the new one on. If you need to cut it to get it off you're going to have trouble getting the new one on. Did I mention more lube?

 

[Mythos]

ok. I will lube the crap out of it. I'll use straight dish soap.

I'm hoping that this is just a really old, hard tire. How many people keep a tire on a rim for 6 years? I'm no expert at this, but I can't imagine the new tire will be as difficult. If it is, it's going to a tire shop.