drag_on77598
Registered
i just wondered whyh hardly any busa rider's that i've seen use big bore kits? i see lots of zx-12's with them, what's the differences between that and a turbo? not stupid just don't know.
turbo vs big bore
- Thread starter drag_on77598
- Start date
The 12 has had problems with turbo installs because of the way the frame is designed to serve as the airbox...In other words it requires alot of fabrication to make a turbo work correctly...It's easier to upgrade the 12 with a big bore kit...Big bore kits combined with NOS also serve the Busa well...Got a partner here that's running a big bore and nos setup and his bike is awesome...However we have not gauged our bikes...He's a better drag racer than I am and will more than likely beat me on the strip...But I should destroy him in a roll on...For instance in the 1/8th on his big bore w/nos his best time has been 6.13 on my bike that he is not familiar with he ran a 6.14 on the 4th pass...So my bike is just about ready to venture into the high 5's...It's a cost for HP issue...You simply get more bang for the buck w/turbo -vs- a big bore and nos setup...
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drag_on77598
Registered
ok, thxs man i just wondered and you answered. thxs
hehe, yep, stunnuh knows more about that stuff than me,, I just like saying "BIG BORE HAYABUSA"..
hehe I would love to be able to say it... "Hi, I'm Ego, and I have a BIG BORE HAYABUSA."
plus it's got much better "sleeper" attributes than a nos, or turbo.
hehe I would love to be able to say it... "Hi, I'm Ego, and I have a BIG BORE HAYABUSA."
plus it's got much better "sleeper" attributes than a nos, or turbo.
We've got to learn a bit more about these bikes...
Hey Ego how about if you could say you have a big Bore Blown hayabusa
for those few that have Big bore Kits and Turbos
for those few that have Big bore Kits and Turbos
The number one complaint that I've heard about the big bore is keeping it cool...My partner that has a kit on his Busa, work done by Lee's Performance is having a streetability issue just can't keep the temp down...Another friend that has bored a 12 may have run into the same problem...
That's a good point...My partners bike the 12 had problems starting after the battery was discharged...some big bores have starting problems.... they are hard to turn over and may need a second battery.
I think for the heating issue there is a dual fan mod someone has done on sh.org and you can also set your fan to come on earlier or activate it by a switch. I would perfer a big bore over turbo because of the hidden cost of the turbo and all the probs that can occur. Besides i'd much rather have a sleeper that i can use to bash in the heads of nos owners. The turbo just tells on itself when you pull up
Mr Brown
Registered
12's are bad about that stock. Partner of mine hooked it up to a treuck after it discharged, had to leave it charging for over 2 hours just to get it to hit.That's a good point...My partners bike the 12 had problems starting after the battery was discharged...some big bores have starting problems.... they are hard to turn over and may need a second battery.
suzuki4life
Banned
if they're having temp pronblems odds are they'll end up ditching their thermostats.
if they ditch the tstat, they ain't very smart.
You're a lot better off increasing the psi of the radiator cap than ditching the tstat. The back-pressure the tstat provides is an essential part of the cooling system. Removing the tstat causes coolant to flow too quickly, reducing heat transfer.
all of these are bandaids though, if the truly have overheating problems, the real fix is to increase the radiator size and/or increase fan/air flow capacity.
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You're a lot better off increasing the psi of the radiator cap than ditching the tstat. The back-pressure the tstat provides is an essential part of the cooling system. Removing the tstat causes coolant to flow too quickly, reducing heat transfer.
all of these are bandaids though, if the truly have overheating problems, the real fix is to increase the radiator size and/or increase fan/air flow capacity.
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suzuki4life
Banned
You're calculating based on a car. Larger pumps, more surface area to cool, not as much exposure to air cooling capabilities, materials which don't disipate heat as quickly etc. In the middle of summer you can remove your thermostat on a Hayabusa and it will operate FINE. ONLY in the cooler months should anyone argue this at all due to the fact the bike will require allot more time and usage to get its operating temps into range. HOWEVER most big bore and turbo guys are running synthetic oil, which also somewhat helps negate the need to have such a high operating temp compared to using fossil fuels.
BTW, PLEASE SHOW ME A LARGER REPLACEMENT RADIATOR AVAILABLE FOR THE HAYABUSA.
ONLY possible substitute is from the gp gsxr class race bikes. Their radiators were actually stepped and covered the area used by the oil cooler. Price tag on them I believe was like $5000+
HOw much of a hidden cost...there is a hidden cost in everything...I was going to build a big bore and there are a lot of hidden costs to do it...
I went turbo.... bigger back for the buck and still got room to grow.
Get a new rear tire...differnt model have to change the front
Get a Full system...bike wont run right without a pc
Go nitrous...need a controller so you dont blow yourself up
Got a turbo...need bigger injectors so i can get 300 hp need a swingarm so i dont loop the thing...need a smaller rear so i dont loop the thing...need to have the front lower so i dont loop it at the strip.
There is a post about a guy on this board who threw 25k into his bike because his turbo kept blowing up. Id go with teh motor work
On big bores i think you can go 1397 pretty reliable as long as your not gona push the 13:1 compression ration i have a 1363 motor with 12.5:1 compresion ratio and i have no heating problems from my understanding most of the heating problems is in the higher compression motors and the starting problems granted they give you more HP i'm running 179hp no over the 156 my bike had stock. also have cams and head work done also.
other bike is stock bore with je pistons and Crower rods gona run around 310 on the street but be able to crank it higher if i really want with what i have built it should handle 600hp if i choose to go that route
other bike is stock bore with je pistons and Crower rods gona run around 310 on the street but be able to crank it higher if i really want with what i have built it should handle 600hp if i choose to go that route
