Trunk mod done.

Blue is clearly easier to take pics of... Looks great.. Good Job, and continued Kudos to SixPack and crew for taking it on first..
 
I am going to get me some of these and put them in place of the bolts I used. I think it will look better then the screws. I will do it when I seal it up this winter

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Blanca Busa said:
Somebody needs to start making these ready to install with all parts needed

Do it and I will buy the 1st one:thumbsup:

Black can please:whistle:

From my dunce stool :cookoo:
 
I am just curious how much the fender is and if I could make them all nice and sealed up ready to go?
I send you the new ready modded one and you send me back the core/oem fender to make another one for somebody else?

Checking part prices and thinking?
 
The fender costs $98. Even if it was half price with core return I don't see many paying that much for one when they can spend five bucks on a can and do it themselves. Had the fender been like 20 or 30 bucks maybe but not for a hunge.
 
Sealing the box into the fender is a non issue. You will not find any water/moisture blowing into the trunk from underneathe through any of the 4 sides assuming the box is a good fit, as yours is Saiid(along with every other pic posted of folks who have done this). The roost from the rear tire sprays up in the center, and any water contacting any of the four sides of the box would have to have pressure washer force to get water up over the top of the box and thus running down into it. The problem is as always, the rear seat/hump. Water will blow into the stock or modded trunk from above when riding in the rain(between the tail plastic and bottom of the rear seat or hump. There are several ways to prevent this(spray foam, weatherstripping, ect.), but no quick and easy way. A drain hole in the stock or modded trunk is also just a way for water to enter from below from tire roost.
There is also not a quick and easy way to remove the stock undertail(even though it doesn't have to be removed to do the trunk mod). The easy way is to cut a groove in the undertail to allow the rear master cylinder hose to pass through it so the undertail can be removed. Otherwise you are disconnecting the hose and bleeding the rear brake.
I have also made and sent 2 free trunk boxes to two memebers a year or more ago, both were 4.5" deep. One member had no issues, the other's rubbed. I have posted before that it's not only rider weight, or rider and passenger weight, but how you have the rear suspension set up. Too soft and you'll have issues, and of course if the bike is lowered.
I'm 195lbs in leathers and have set the sag, and even with my wife on the back my 4.5" deep box does not rub.
As posted before, if the box is too deep, remove it and trim a half inch, an inch, whatever evenly across the top and reinstall it. Black plastic license plate bolts also work well to hold the trunk in.
I have been dwelling on this idea for years(even before putting the first one in a gen2), and I have yet to determine how to make this a generic part without rubbing issues...without the box being more than an inch or two deep.
It is as you see much more than the average rider wants to do to their bike, regardless how easy it really is.
The cost of a patented version in different depths, be it trunk only or complete undertail far exceeds the cost of a trashcan and an hour of your time. I looked into that too.
The Tiger Racing undertail was built off of the trunk mod idea, but I respectfully say was disapointing to many as it is basically a race only or fair weather application. As it is not sealed from underneathe at all.
I said originally that I like the fact that ideas are built upon, and I'm very happy with all the positive feedback and individual variations seen so far. However we are still at square one for a cheap generic version. I won't be the guy to say it can't be done, but for a $7 trashcan and a little time I don't think there is a market for something that would have a high pricetag; especially with overhead and shipping costs of a full undertail added also.
The challenge remains.....................
 
$7 dollars?? You paid too much, my can was only $4.95. :rofl:

In my mind it seems like just a simple mold change and viola you have your trunk molded in from get go but I see as you say to have just one and expect it to work with all Busas would be difficult and having multiple sizes would also be difficult.
How bout you and I just share the idea with Suzuki for say......two GenIII Busas :)
 
$7 dollars?? You paid too much, my can was only $4.95. :rofl:

In my mind it seems like just a simple mold change and viola you have your trunk molded in from get go but I see as you say to have just one and expect it to work with all Busas would be difficult and having multiple sizes would also be difficult.
How bout you and I just share the idea with Suzuki for say......two GenIII Busas :)

Make it happen:thumbsup:
 
Blanca Busa said:
$7 dollars?? You paid too much, my can was only $4.95. :rofl:

In my mind it seems like just a simple mold change and viola you have your trunk molded in from get go but I see as you say to have just one and expect it to work with all Busas would be difficult and having multiple sizes would also be difficult.
How bout you and I just share the idea with Suzuki for say......two GenIII Busas :)

There is a lot more to a mold change than "simple". I spent over 12 years as a machinist in the tool and die industry and plastic injection molds are rather intricate.

From my dunce stool :cookoo:
 
There is a lot more to a mold change than "simple". I spent over 12 years as a machinist in the tool and die industry and plastic injection molds are rather intricate.
From my dunce stool :cookoo:

Yep, the overhead for the whole project would be outta sight. The new undertail would demand a high price tag, along with high shipping as well as advertiseing. I doubt enough would ever sell to break even.
It would be nice if Suzuki would consider something like it whenever they make changes to the gen2.
Just an inch or inch and a half deep box would add alot of storage without comprimising tire clearance(assuming they stay with an outer tail section that it would work with).:beerchug:
 
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