stage 1.5 rcc?

i thought the busa DID have a knock sensor that allowed that. also, you don't tune to the point that in knocks, just to the threshold. i'm sure that people can run tons of boost, but why is the limit 14 psi with an air to air intercooler? what if i have a nice set of forged rods, is the limit still 14 psi on an a/a intercooler? higher volumetric efficiency shouldn't affect the boost limit.

Sorry no knock sensors on a busa, and since you mentioned that you don't tune to the point that it knocks, just the thresh hold, that thresh hold with an air/air intercooler on a busa just happens to be 14-15 psi of boost with most intercoolers. If you could install a larger intercooler you may be able to raise the amount of boost you run on pump fuel, hence our liq/air can safely run 18 psi on pump fuel, others have ran even more boost.

Yes if you have a nice set of forged rods, the boost limit would still be 14 psi, the forged rods will handle more hp, but they will not reduce detonation, or lower intake temps, so regardless of what rods or pistons you have, over 14 psi on 93 octane pump fuel will lead to detonation, and in turn start to burn ring landings and vlave seat bridging. Higher volumetric efficiency may or may not effect the boost limit, this is merely my own speculation, my thoughts are the more efficient an engine is, the less it needs forced induction. In other words if the bike engine is capable of 100% efficiency naturally aspirated, then adding forced induction brings it to its detonation limit sooner then a 80% efficient car engine, the car engine has a 20% disadvantage to overcome to reach the same efficiency and put it into the same window of detonation, hence the higher boost in a car engine without the detonation, as it is not using the air and fuel as efficiently.

Not sure if there are any 1.3 liter car engine out there making 150 hp stock, let alone 250 hp at 7 psi.

Richard
 
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Not sure if there are any 1.3 liter car engine out there making 150 hp stock, let alone 250 hp at 7 psi.

Richard
Guess you have never heard of Mazda? What kind of gear head are you? Call yourself a turbo guy huh? A Mazda 1.3 never had a busted rod or a burnt piston..... :rofl:















Just kidding Richard. I know who you are and what you do, nothing but respect for ya sir. Just couldn't resist........
 
Guess you have never heard of Mazda? What kind of gear head are you? Call yourself a turbo guy huh? A Mazda 1.3 never had a busted rod or a burnt piston..... :rofl:















Just kidding Richard. I know who you are and what you do, nothing but respect for ya sir. Just couldn't resist........

Are you talking about the rotary, tough to break parts that were never there, lol but I did own a Mazdas RX-7 years ago,

Richard
 
Are you talking about the rotary, tough to break parts that were never there, lol but I did own a Mazdas RX-7 years ago,

Richard

I was looking at some 4 rotor engine vids on youtube the other day. Just amzing.

I got a question about the liqiud/air intercooler.

How long would it take a street bike to heat soak the liqiud, or is the cooler and rervoir efficient enough to not let this happen.

Kinda what I'm getting at is, can the liquid come to a point where's its not doing its job? Then your street based turbo bike would have to be detuned for longer rides.
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Full circulatory system with a heat exchanger, so the liquid is getting cooled down, it is not just a resorvoir with water in it,

Richard
 
Sorry no knock sensors on a busa, and since you mentioned that you don't tune to the point that it knocks, just the thresh hold, that thresh hold with an air/air intercooler on a busa just happens to be 14-15 psi of boost with most intercoolers. If you could install a larger intercooler you may be able to raise the amount of boost you run on pump fuel, hence our liq/air can safely run 18 psi on pump fuel, others have ran even more boost.

Yes if you have a nice set of forged rods, the boost limit would still be 14 psi, the forged rods will handle more hp, but they will not reduce detonation, or lower intake temps, so regardless of what rods or pistons you have, over 14 psi on 93 octane pump fuel will lead to detonation, and in turn start to burn ring landings and vlave seat bridging. Higher volumetric efficiency may or may not effect the boost limit, this is merely my own speculation, my thoughts are the more efficient an engine is, the less it needs forced induction. In other words if the bike engine is capable of 100% efficiency naturally aspirated, then adding forced induction brings it to its detonation limit sooner then a 80% efficient car engine, the car engine has a 20% disadvantage to overcome to reach the same efficiency and put it into the same window of detonation, hence the higher boost in a car engine without the detonation, as it is not using the air and fuel as efficiently.

Not sure if there are any 1.3 liter car engine out there making 150 hp stock, let alone 250 hp at 7 psi.

Richard
technically speaking, there is no engine that "NEEDS" forced induction (although some diesels run like ass without it). and a blown or boosted motor can easily run past 100% volumetric efficiency. no one uses a colder heat range spark plug? has anyone actually measured the temp inside the plenum, or even just after the intercooler? i wish i had the resources to figure out why bikes have this tendency to detonate, even on low compression pistons an 93 octane
 
300 hp on pump gas with an intercooler is easily do-able, out of a 1.3L engine equates to 230 hp per liter.

That type of efficiency out of a 5.0L mustang would be 1153 hp.

Whats the issue LOL
 
Full circulatory system with a heat exchanger, so the liquid is getting cooled down, it is not just a resorvoir with water in it,

Richard

I understand the circulatory and its not a cooler that holds water.

What I was trying to ask is there a point the the system cannot keep up anymore. Being on a bike with limited space and a short distance from exchanger to reservoir, does heat become an issue with the coolant? Or does it have the capacity to cool completely before being recirculated to the exchanger.
Thanks for the info. Just trying to learn about these turbo bikes. The more I read the more I want one.
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300 hp on pump gas with an intercooler is easily do-able, out of a 1.3L engine equates to 230 hp per liter.

That type of efficiency out of a 5.0L mustang would be 1153 hp.

Whats the issue LOL

Good point Greg, I would like to see an 1100 hp pump fuel 5.0L, or better yet, compare it to the liq/air hayabusa that makes 292 hp per liter, 1460 hp out of a 5.0L on pump, might want to watch that 5.0L detonate a little,

Richard
 
I understand the circulatory and its not a cooler that holds water.

What I was trying to ask is there a point the the system cannot keep up anymore. Being on a bike with limited space and a short distance from exchanger to reservoir, does heat become an issue with the coolant? Or does it have the capacity to cool completely before being recirculated to the exchanger.
Thanks for the info. Just trying to learn about these turbo bikes. The more I read the more I want one.
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System will pull over 200 degrees out of the intake charge and has maintained it over 5 miles, there might be a point at which it will begin to heat up to a point that some cooling is sacrificed, but not sure where you would hold a 600hp turbo busa wide open over 250mph for more the 5 miles, at over 30 psi. Just riding around on the street under 20 psi on pump fuel will never be a problem.

Richard
 
ok fine, liquid cooled it is, you persistent little bastard :laugh:

alright, lets see some pics of your particular setup. detailed plumbing pics...
 
and then my thread died... i just want to know what the install is like on the air/water setup. if you have some super secret setup, i don't need to see it man. and the "ultimate" intake manifold, what makes it ultimate? (i asked rcc, but haven't gotten a response yet). can i run 18 psi with it on pump gas, on a single set of injectors? i'm not crazy about the whole "dual fuel system" thing.
 
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RCC SUPER ULTRA install in progress

Who makes this Ultra Plenum?

Hayabusa_Ultra_K_48fdca4be63a0.jpg


Billet_Ultra_Ple_48f79764b7a5c.jpg


installed.jpg


mockupultrakit.jpg


radiator1.jpg


radiator4.jpg
 
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i wonder if i could get the stage 1 with one of these, in a .48 hotside. or is the .48 too small for higher revs?

AGP 50 Trim
 
i think super ultra kit is just a bigger turbo, i think.

regular ultra kit comes with the aweseome plenum too i do believe.
 
i think super ultra kit is just a bigger turbo, i think.

regular ultra kit comes with the aweseome plenum too i do believe.

Yes, the plenum is the same: four 1,000cc injectors wired to a 4-bar Microtech box. The "regular" Ultra comes with a GT35RR, and the "super" comes with either a GT40 or GT42, whatever your pleasure: 600+ or 700+ RWHP:thumbsup::thumbsup:

The Ultra plenum itself can be used with any turbo that runs its up-pipe through the left ram air hole in the frame. I did one kit with this plenum that had a Super 20 turbo!???
 
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