Quick Shifter?

I watched a vid and the HM Shifter it says you can't use it for 1st and 2nd
i think they are covering any liability

i clutchless change ALWAYS through neutral
and also with QUICKSHIFTER but always with a positive tap

like i said fitted at 3,500 miles in january 2011 now at 69,011 miles :)
My gen 1 14 has no flash. The HM shifter works good. Cuts fuel while you make the shift. Shifting at high rpm is a little tricky. You really have to move your toe as quick as you have the kill time set to or you will miss the shift. Have gotten steel chunks in my oil since using the shifter and I'm sure it's shift dogs getting banged on missed shifts. The gear box bangs back to previous gear under WOT.....planning to try GP shift conversion.

All that aside, the quickshifter is the MOST exciting mod I have done hands down. Yes you will be faster, No not that much faster that you will notice if you're not racing. ....but the sensation of instant throttle into the next gear in 65 mls is like nothing else! The sound is out of this world.....DO get one with Auto-blip for clutchless downshifting. If you are serious, an electric Pingle shifter is probably the best way to go.

The PCV has functions for quickshifter that will allow you to adjust fuel cut / ignition cut or both / gear. Have not played with it yet but I thik it could be used with any shifter....it just cuts fuel / ignition is all it does. If you spend more on a quickshifter all that will be adjustable in the shifter itself.

I recommend a quickshifter for fun factor...it's so cool, I suggest you spend as much as you can you won't regret it....you do need to do some practice with it though. You can't be even a tiny bit lazy on those WOT high rm shifts.
I'm no expert at all but here are a few ways to go with this one.

You can do the quick shifter. If you have the pcv you have to buy the quick shift module to add to the pcv.
if you want to do the quick shifter you can buy a harness from ryan schnitz. The quick shifter will plug into the harness then into at the ecu. You have to have you eco flashed for this method or know how to do it yourself.

You can do an air shifter. This in my opinion is much better. You don't have to shift with your foot. You can use the horn button as the shifter or wire up your own button. This method kills the engine when the button is pressed (it kills it so quickly you do not notice the kill) it then uses air, co2, or nitrogen (this is up to you) to activate a cylinder to shift for you. (this works great when you are drag racing and do not have to rush getting your feet back to the pegs to shift from 1st to 2nd, or at all)
For air shifters to work there are a couple methods. You can use a kill box provided with some air shifters to stop fuel and/or ignition to kill for the shift. or the better option is to use a harness to a flashed ecu. Boost by smith and ryan schnitzel sell the harness.

Ryan schnitz does the ecu flashing if you ship him your ecu.
Boost by smith sells the harness and supplies the software to flash your ecu. this way does cost more but you can make adjustments to your ecu anytime you want with the one time cost of the harness.

With the air shifter you can make it automatic with another harness/shift light that boost by smith sells. you set the rpm and when the bike reaches that set rpm it will shift.
With the air shifter you can also turn it off and on for street riding.

There is no right or wrong way to go with these they are all preference. If we took a poll air shifter or quick shifter, Air shifter will win.
The down side is you will pay more.

I hope this helps
The HM shifter I have is on my 14. I've used it to shift from 1 to 2 but I don't like to try this at high rpm or large throttle because there is too much power there if a shift gets messed up. I normally use clutch for one to two and then quickshift 2 through 6.

If you're familiar with the electronics, you see the LCD is showing only 65% throttle in the lower RH corner of the display. Also, I am not hitting peak rpm before each shift. Both of these because I did not want to risk missing a shift on this last speed run of the season.

this will show you what it's like when it works and when it doesn't. This a few years ago, I do not think it has a thing to do with sensitivity setting. It has everything to do with making a complete foot shift in a fraction of a second. not so easy while tucked down and wearing leathers. GP shift is going to help.