Quick shifter question

Dopey

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I was doing some reading on quick shifters and found out about being able to set one up thru the ecu. I think I've decided my buddy and I are gonna split the cost and and get a flash kit from Greg but while reading i seen someone say you could use different quickshifters to send the signal. My question is do I need a specific style or will some just work better then others? Reason being i really like the healtech quickshifter for the way it's just a small piece that attaches to your shift linkage and very stealth so if it's possible to make one of those work that's the one I'd wanna use.
 
You may be able to use ECU Editor to do the ignition cut for a quickshifter. A quickshifter is just a switch. If a wire can be hooked up fom the Healtech to your ECU, that would be all you need asuming the ECU can be programed to respond with an ignition cut. If ECU Editor has a quickshifter feature, I'd think it would also allow you to adjust kill time and maybe even per gear a/o per rpm. One thing that would be necessary is that the quickshifter switch normally be open or nomally closed. You may be able to select that in ECU Editor too.

I had enquired with Dyno Jet if my HM shifter could be used just like the Dyno Jet quickshifter. The PC5 has a nice quickshifter feature. The answer was not definitive but one thing that would matter was if the switch is open at rest or if it is closed. The DJ shifter is normally open and that's what the PC5 quickshifter utility is designed for. You can't select normally open or normally closed. They made it to work with the DJ shifter so no need for normally closed.
 
How about on the d-shift? Can you manually blip when going down?
Mine is up only...

I down shift normally

The up shift is really something else, it was odd at first not clutching. It's hard to ride with my riding buddy as I am always mistakenly leaving him behind as I find myself accelerating faster than I usually do pretty much all the time.
 
So who is using ecu editor and a quick shifter?
Which j quick shifters work and is the best bang for the buck?
 
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I was doing some reading on quick shifters and found out about being able to set one up thru the ecu. I think I've decided my buddy and I are gonna split the cost and and get a flash kit from Greg but while reading i seen someone say you could use different quickshifters to send the signal. My question is do I need a specific style or will some just work better then others? Reason being i really like the healtech quickshifter for the way it's just a small piece that attaches to your shift linkage and very stealth so if it's possible to make one of those work that's the one I'd wanna use.

my recommendation?

keep away from the q.s. at all busa 1&2 !

if not 100% adjusted or abused (at lower rpm) this will be the expensive result
the busa trans is seemingly not made for a q.s.
 
This is the one I have. Works perfectly with ECU Editor. I have it set at 50 ms...


Also have these as well...

 
I guess it'll come down to finding out if the healtech switch is normally open or closed to see if it'll work thru ecu. I just really don't like the size of most quickshifters and I really like the idea of no one else knowing I have one as well.
Screenshot_20210209-121838_Chrome.jpg
 
This is the one I have. Works perfectly with ECU Editor. I have it set at 50 ms...


Also have these as well...

The $170 qs is the one needed for a gen 2 busa and needs ecu editor to work correctly?
 
This is the one I have. Works perfectly with ECU Editor. I have it set at 50 ms...
Thanks, Dustin. 50 mls is impressive. No missed shifts at WOT and high rpm with that fast of a kill time?

The $170 qs is the one needed for a gen 2 busa and needs ecu editor to work correctly?
Any quickshifter switch should work as long as it is wired up properly. I don't know where that one hooks inline but I would assume whichever one you use, it would need to have the same kind of inline connectors or else you cut and splice (which I avoid at all costs). The only other thing is if the switch you use is open or closed at rest. I bet most if not all are open at rest. I don't see a reason to have current constantly flowing except for when switch signals an ignition cut for the shift to take place.
 
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I guess it'll come down to finding out if the healtech switch is normally open or closed to see if it'll work thru ecu. I just really don't like the size of most quickshifters and I really like the idea of no one else knowing I have one as well.
View attachment 1632121

This one won't work, its a strain gauge and needs the circuity in their box to work. the danosperformance one is the one that I used to buy and sell, just can't buy them low enough to make any money on them, but at $170 a great bargain IMO. This is what fuel and ignition cut looks like on a gen 2 anyway :)

 
This one won't work, its a strain gauge and needs the circuity in their box to work. the danosperformance one is the one that I used to buy and sell, just can't buy them low enough to make any money on them, but at $170 a great bargain IMO. This is what fuel and ignition cut looks like on a gen 2 anyway :)

Thank you sir that's the answer I needed. :beerchug:
 
Thanks, Dustin. 50 mls is impressive. No missed shifts at WOT and high rpm with that fast of a kill time?


Any quickshifter switch should work as long as it is wired up properly. I don't know where that one hooks inline but I would assume whichever one you use, it would need to have the same kind of inline connectors or else you cut and splice (which I avoid at all costs). The only other thing is if the switch you use is open or closed at rest. I bet most if not all are open at rest. I don't see a reason to have current constantly flowing except for when switch signals an ignition cut for the shift to take place.
Nope, no missed shifts. Been working perfectly for over 4 years now.
 
This one won't work, its a strain gauge and needs the circuity in their box to work.
It looks like my HM Plus shifter should work if I hooked up a connector like the one on the loom and routed the other end to the ECU (or whatever wire going to the ECU that is responsible for an ignition cut). The loom has two wires in it so I presume one constantly draws a small amount of current off the coils to power the module and the other draws all current during the ignition cut. If I found out which of the two wires from the loom provides power for the module, I could hook that up to any power source and the other wire in the loom would be spliced to whichever wire is required to do the ECU editor quickshifter function. Set the module for one mls to trigger the ECU ignition cut, set ECU editor quickshifter for 55 mls. The ECU would cut ignition for 55 mls in response to the pulse from the loom wire. Sound reasonable?

I could still retain the use of sensitivity and compression/extension adjustments that are set in the module while using the ECU to do the ignition cut. Come to think of it, the sensitivity and compression/extension settings might be why a strain gauge might not work without its module hooked up to it.

HM.wire.order.jpg


Just wondering. For $170, it might just be worth it to go with the Dano strain gauge. I could probably sell the used HM Plus for that much.
 
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