Powder Coating Stock Rearsets

[mvastine]

I’ve wanted to do this ever since I got the bike and now I’m really excited to have it done. It’s got to be one of the best aesthetic mods you can do to a stock bike. I really wish I had taken before pictures, but I didn’t. I’m posting because when I ran into a question (PITA bushings) I searched for help and a couple people said they did it but nobody posted the details. Anyway hope this saves somebody some time and frustration…

Disassembly isn’t bad, you may need a small breaker bar for the bolts to the frame/subframe.

The biggest issue I had was getting these bushings out of the rearset plates before sending them to the powdercoater. Some people say you can leave them in but my guy told me to remove them. I used a vice to press them out, but at first I thought the rubber was glued in so I pressed on the center. The one on the left is the result, ripped the rubber grommet out of the thin steel bushing. That’s the part you should press out.

I didn’t have a complete set of press accessories so I went to the hardware store and got a bolt/nut/washer combo to use as a press tool. The bolt just slips into the grommet hole (electrical tape used for spacer), and the washers are only slightly smaller diameter than the hole in the rearset. A socket (larger size then the bushing) can be used on the backside to have a whole to press into. The wood was used to stabilize everything.

Here’s what the parts looked like after I got them back from powder coating.

The next trick was getting these PITA bushings back in. I tried pressing them in but I was afraid of accidently scratching the coating so I cheated. Dremel time…I used the small sanding drum to go around the inside of the aluminum plate in circular motions until the bushing slipped right in…easy. Sorry the picture is bad, but you get the idea.

After everything was re-assembled...The finished product. I swear the bike is clearner than that!

 

[Dino]

Sweet...that is my plan exactly...

 

[Merlot]

Wow nicely done.

 

[Mewn]

I will be doing the same thing soon, how much did you pay to have the powdercoating done?

 

[mvastine]

Yea I don't understand why Suzuki didn't do this in the first place.

I paid $75, and for those in the DFW area, Top Koat 817-478-0797. His name is Joe and did a great job.

 

[BigBSBusa]

Nice!

 

[woodwheel]

great job...

 

[Vic_E55_2001]

I did at least 50 sets, You don`t have to press out bushing. Rubber will hold 375F for 15 minutes. Now you can loose your rearset because bushing is too lose.
Instead of sanding it down you could freeze busing while heating up

I agree with you that Suzuki should do it at the factory instead of painting it with crappy silver paint.

 

[BA BUSA]

 

[mvastine]

The thermal idea is probably a better, but it's slow and I wanted to ride today. I took out very little aluminum and I'm not to worried about the rearset coming off because the bushing doesn't hold them on, the oversized screwheads do...on the 2nd gen anyway.

 

[dsbunton646]

i have decided to get mine done as well and i will be disassembling the parts this weekend in order to get them shipped. i need some help though. 1) can the bolt heads and linkage be powdercoated also? i have been told the coating can get in the threads and make the nuts not fit. i have also been told there are ways around it (ie.. hight temp tape etc..) 2) does the shift linkage and shift rod have to be taken apart in order to have them coated? i am assuming yes so.. how does the rod come apart from the ball joint on either end? are the ball joints just pressed fit? i want the whole shibang black, including the bolt head, shift lever, pegs, brake lever, linkage etc.. 3) can the brake linkage and cylinder also be powdercoated? sorry for all the questions but your parts look great and you seem to have some good idea about the process. thanks.

 

[docjunior]

powdercoating looks good.

unrelated but how do you like them pipes? i was thinking about getting them for my orange/black 08

 

[mvastine]

Dsbunton646,
Like Vic said above I’m almost sure the rubber is fine, but I was told to remove all of it. Any other holes/threads can be covered up.
1)Yes all your bolts can be coated, the powdercoater will cover the threads. I just didn’t go to the trouble. Plus if a wrench slips on them they’ll look scratched up.
2) Yes take everything apart you don’t want permanently coated together. The shift rod unscrews, but remember one side of the rod is reverse thread. I learned this the hard way years ago. For some reason I didn’t do the shift lever this time, but I assume they would wrap up the connected ball joint just like threads. I wouldn’t try to press the ball links out.
3) I’d have to look closer at the rear m/c linkage and I don’t have it in front of me, but I know you could disassemble it. Just depends how much trouble you want to go to.

Like the bolts, lever & rod I’m ok with some parts not being black, I think when you do too much it looks like you just shot everything assembled, i.e. not factory- a little OVER done, but that just my preference.

Docjunior,
I like the M4s. A little loud for me (I like to stay inconspicuous), but not too bad. Look sweet except I can’t keep my heels off them.

 

[dsbunton646]

THANKS A BUNCH!! that is what i needed to know and am looking forward to the mod. i didn't think about the "spraying the whole thing " look. i might just leave the bolts, or paint them later if i decide i want them black. thanks again for the input.

 

[Jza]

Yea I don't understand why Suzuki didn't do this in the first place.

I paid $75, and for those in the DFW area, Top Koat 817-478-0797. His name is Joe and did a great job.

+1

Kawasaki's look great AS STANDARD with everything blacked out

 

[EarlyBird]

 

[Bruce Bohannon]

Looks great!

Be careful with the detergents you now use to clean the bike.

 

[memorex]

I've been thinking about doing this for awhile now. Thanks for the heads up on the bushings.

 

[dsbunton646]

i jut took all mine of the bike. i haven't removed the bushings yet. am i understanding it correctly that i can leave them in and still have the sets powdercaoated? also, for those that have done it, did you powdercoat all the very small pieces like the pins retaining clips and etc that hold the pegs on, just to make sure they match?

 

[Greenbean]

Dsbunton646,
Like Vic said above I’m almost sure the rubber is fine, but I was told to remove all of it. Any other holes/threads can be covered up.
1)Yes all your bolts can be coated, the powdercoater will cover the threads. I just didn’t go to the trouble. Plus if a wrench slips on them they’ll look scratched up.
2) Yes take everything apart you don’t want permanently coated together. The shift rod unscrews, but remember one side of the rod is reverse thread. I learned this the hard way years ago. For some reason I didn’t do the shift lever this time, but I assume they would wrap up the connected ball joint just like threads. I wouldn’t try to press the ball links out.
3) I’d have to look closer at the rear m/c linkage and I don’t have it in front of me, but I know you could disassemble it. Just depends how much trouble you want to go to.

Like the bolts, lever & rod I’m ok with some parts not being black, I think when you do too much it looks like you just shot everything assembled, i.e. not factory- a little OVER done, but that just my preference.

Docjunior,
I like the M4s. A little loud for me (I like to stay inconspicuous), but not too bad. Look sweet except I can’t keep my heels off them.

Questions for you PC guys, I removed all my foot peg hardware today and have been trying to remove as much as I can, gonna go back into the garage in a minute and try a 14mm socket on the bushings,

Here is my questions,

Whats about the copper colored insert on the shifte lever and the ball and socket joint,

Are you guys also power coating the shift rod itself and the piece that attaches it to the tranny?

Check my pics, sorry for the quality, My BB is just 2.0mp,

Lastly,
this is the column that the brake lever pivots on, I think it can be threaded out but how ca I get it out and not damage the smooth surface that the brake pedal moves on?

Also, what size shoes do you wear that you say you can't keep your feet of your pipes, I am leaning towards the M4 slip-ons myself...I wear a size 15 though