Help with Rostra Cruise Control! Captain, TwoTonevert, Sous, Anyone!

[PADEROLIS]

Read this, I've used this process on no less than 10 different installs.

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I'm seeing a few different relay wiring schematics: Sous's: 30- connects to violet wire from cruise unit
87A- battery ground
87- 12V at battery
86- battery ground
85-brake switch wire (white with black tracer)

Rostra Manual: 30- Ground
87A- Violet wire from cruise unit
87- NOT USED
86- Ground
85- Brake switch wire (white with black)

Currently I have the relay wired like the Rostra manual instructs, but I still can't get diagnostics mode to work.

 

[ottafish]

Quick question, are you tapped into both the VSS and the no1 ignition coil?
Have you also tapped into the clutch switch?
Depending on what you have used will depend on what the switch settings are. The no1 coil is only for engine runaway to disable the cruise, it's not used for speed input on the new rostra models. If you have tapped into the clutch then the coil wire should be grounded.

Also from memory, the violet wire needs to be held at grnd during normal operation and removed from grnd when brakes applied. But I'm fairly certain it doesn't need +12v at brake on time. It just needs a not ground.
Take the violet wire, remove from relay and ground it. Put the unit into diag mode and remove the violet from ground. The led should come on. I have mine all apart at the moment so happy to help

 

[PADEROLIS]

Quick question, are you tapped into both the VSS and the no1 ignition coil?
Have you also tapped into the clutch switch?
Depending on what you have used will depend on what the switch settings are. The no1 coil is only for engine runaway to disable the cruise, it's not used for speed input on the new rostra models. If you have tapped into the clutch then the coil wire should be grounded.

Also from memory, the violet wire needs to be held at grnd during normal operation and removed from grnd when brakes applied. But I'm fairly certain it doesn't need +12v at brake on time. It just needs a not ground.

Yes, I am tapped into the #1 coil and I am tapped into the VSS wire. Come to think of it, the coil wire is grounded on my Burgman scooter's Rostra system. I just assumed it was because it has an automatic transmission. In regards to the violet wire; where should it be connected?

 

[PADEROLIS]

Thank you, everyone, for all of your help and advise so far! Hopefully I can get this figured out!

 

[ottafish]

Yes, I am tapped into the #1 coil and I am tapped into the VSS wire. Come to think of it, the coil wire is grounded on my Burgman scooter's Rostra system. I just assumed it was because it has an automatic transmission. In regards to the violet wire; where should it be connected?

For testing only, any decent ground will do. Takes the whole relay issue out of the equation

 

[PADEROLIS]

Okay, I disconnected the TACH wire from the #1 coil and grounded it, I also put the violet wire to ground. Nothing changed, I still can't get into diagnostic mode. When I turn the control pad on and I apply the brakes, I see a quick flash of the LED inside the servo. This happens whether I have the violet wire connected to anything or not.

 

[PADEROLIS]

Right now I'm only tapped into the VSS, I am not tapped into the clutch switch. Do I need to reconnect the TACH wire to the #1 coil, or should I leave it grounded?

 

[ottafish]

Right now I'm only tapped into the VSS, I am not tapped into the clutch switch. Do I need to reconnect the TACH wire to the #1 coil, or should I leave it grounded?

If you're not hooked into the clutch switch, you need the no1 coil. It's a failsafe for over revving. Say you're out cruising and pull the clutch in, there's no governor to stop the engine revving to redline and going bang. So the signal from coil1 will tell the rostra that the engine is in a runaway state and disengage. If you have the clutch switch hooked up, then you don't need it.

My next step would be to disconnect everything and start testing one by one. Make sure the voilet is grounded and power the system into diag mode. Should be no diag led on. Then break violet grnd and the led should come on.

And just to be sure, maybe double check the 4way molex connector from the control pad that you have the correct wires matched.

 

[PADEROLIS]

If you're not hooked into the clutch switch, you need the no1 coil. It's a failsafe for over revving. Say you're out cruising and pull the clutch in, there's no governor to stop the engine revving to redline and going bang. So the signal from coil1 will tell the rostra that the engine is in a runaway state and disengage. If you have the clutch switch hooked up, then you don't need it.

My next step would be to disconnect everything and start testing one by one. Make sure the voilet is grounded and power the system into diag mode. Should be no diag led on. Then break violet grnd and the led should come on.

And just to be sure, maybe double check the 4way molex connector from the control pad that you have the correct wires matched.

I've got the molex connecter connected to their corresponding wires. I will reconnect the TACH wire to the #1 coil. The wires at the molex connector show 12V when I hold that particular button down. I know it's rare, but I'm beginning to wonder if I may have a defective unit! I really hope not, it's going to suck to have to uninstall it and wait for another unit!

 

[c10]

I have a used spare switch assembly that could be sent out Monday depending on work

 

[PADEROLIS]

No matter what I do, I can't get the unit to go into diag. mode, I'm thinking there's got to be a defect, but I wish I knew for sure! I mean; how hard can it be? This is the first time I've installed a Rostra in a Busa, but not the first time I've installed a Rostra unit. I've installed the Audiovox CCS100 in an 07 and an 08, and they have worked. To be fair, my scooter does not have LED brake lights.

 

[PADEROLIS]

I have a used spare switch assembly that could be sent out Monday depending on work

Thank you for the offer!! But if the switch was bad, I don't think it would show voltage when I held down the buttons. Am I correct in my way of thinking?

 

[c10]

Thank you for the offer!! But if the switch was bad, I don't think it would show voltage when I held down the buttons. Am I correct in my way of thinking?

Probably so . Was just thinking a try before boxing it all up

 

[ottafish]

Thank you for the offer!! But if the switch was bad, I don't think it would show voltage when I held down the buttons. Am I correct in my way of thinking?

Correct. The switch outputs are held at ground until a switch pressed, the output then changes to +12v

 

[ottafish]

BTW, c10, my shipment to you is being held up as the pcb is made in China and it's taking ages to get any info at the moment.. Damn virus thingy

 

[ottafish]

What model switch assy are you using?

 

[PADEROLIS]

Correct. The switch outputs are held at ground until a switch pressed, the output then changes to +12v

Would you please tell me what the red LED inside your servo does when you apply your brakes? Does it stay on solid when you hold the brake lever, or does it just give a quick flash and then go out?

 

[ottafish]

If it turn ign on, then press res/acc and press the on button, it goes into diag mode and led is off. If i hit either front or rear brake the led lights and stays on solid as long as I'm on the brake. I'm in the garage now and just tested it.

 

[PADEROLIS]

What model switch assy are you using?

It is P/N: 250-3592. It is an open circuit switch with the ENGAGE LED. Do you think my issue has anything to do with me not having the ENGAGE LED wire connected? I read it was an option to connect it, but wasn't required to make the system work.

 

[PADEROLIS]

If it turn ign on, then press res/acc and press the on button, it goes into diag mode and led is off. If i hit either front or rear brake the led lights and stays on solid as long as I'm on the brake. I'm in the garage now and just tested it.

Okay, thank you! What does it do when you are not in diag. mode, but the unit is on and you hold the brake?