Guys that powdercoated their rearsets....

Klutch556

Registered
How the hell do you get these anti vibration sleeves out?!?!?
i heated them, put a socket on one side and used a vice to push it into a larger socket to try and press it out, but the rubber just stretched the entire depth of the socket...
And did you unscrew the little clutch pivot arm or leave it? Because that sucker don’t wanna come loose either.
30754DAA-C527-428F-B8E8-4A8CA59AD1CB.jpeg
 
You can have the coater mask the areas you don't want coated. And use a bolt and nut with flat washers on either side to keep any coating from getting in the mounting holes or on the rubber. When they bake the coating it won't get hot enough to hurt them. The tape they use looks like regular masking tape. Could be something special. But it peels right off.
 
You can have the coater mask the areas you don't want coated. And use a bolt and nut with flat washers on either side to keep any coating from getting in the mounting holes or on the rubber. When they bake the coating it won't get hot enough to hurt them. The tape they use looks like regular masking tape. Could be something special. But it peels right off.
I owe you a beer broski!
I should just come here before i do dumb stuff like thinking for myself...
 
How the hell do you get these anti vibration sleeves out?!?!?
i heated them, put a socket on one side and used a vice to push it into a larger socket to try and press it out, but the rubber just stretched the entire depth of the socket...
And did you unscrew the little clutch pivot arm or leave it? Because that sucker don’t wanna come loose either.
View attachment 1629891
That "clutch pivot arm" [shifter shaft] just leave that in. If you remove it the coating will be over the surface that will be contacted by the "arm" when you re-install and it will tear the coating off. Just mask it as Popie said and tell them you dont want it coated,same with the grommets. If they dont like yer tape job,they'll re-do it. That way they get told,and the tape is a reminder to them when they are ready to paint. The "anti vibration sleeves" [rubber bushings] do come out,but doing so usually destroys them. They rarely wear out to the point of replacement.Mine were powder coated 10 years ago in gloss black,still look good. I wish you had mentioned this my brother...I would have mailed you mine for free. You could have mailed me yours in return. I may remove my custom rear sets for touring,yours would have done the job for that.
Rubb.
 
and @Klutch556 they will wear as time goes by. Heal guards cost 20 bucks and will save the coating from the heels of yer giant Frankenstein boots. :p

heel guards.jpg


Something else to consider that looks really cool are aftermarket rear-sets. Mine were only about 150 buck.Look good,good fitment,are standing up well,3 position heights.

rs 3.jpg


rs 2.JPG


My powder coated stockers with custom pegs and custom shifter and brake pedal...

rs1.jpg


rs4.jpg


Rubb.
 
and @Klutch556 they will wear as time goes by. Heal guards cost 20 bucks and will save the coating from the heels of yer giant Frankenstein boots. :p

View attachment 1629916

Something else to consider that looks really cool are aftermarket rear-sets. Mine were only about 150 buck.Look good,good fitment,are standing up well,3 position heights.

View attachment 1629918

View attachment 1629917

My powder coated stockers with custom pegs and custom shifter and brake pedal...

View attachment 1629919

View attachment 1629920

Rubb.
I currently have the driven TT rearsets on mine. I thought I disliked the stickers... but the more I see others with black stockers... the more it’s growin on me. So I thought I’d toss mine in with the rest of the stuff getting coated. Figure it gives me more options...and... he said it wouldn’t cost any more to have them done as well since I’m getting so much other stuff done at once. Lol
 
Leave them in and bake them like that. My powder coater guy did that and never had an issue.
 
Back
Top