Levers Removal





Mythos

Registered
#1
Clutch and Front Brake Levers Removal
The front brake lever and clutch levers are usually only removed to replace them. Short aftermarket levers might stand less of a chance of breaking in a fall. I saw recently where short levers also may decrease the chance of certain finger injuries in a fall. I believe the main purpose of switching to aftermarket levers is appearance. The OEM levers are lighter in weight than Pazzos. I have not had the opportunity to weigh other brands of aftermarket levers.

Tools:
10mm box end wrench
8mm socket
silicone spray lube
rag
cotton swab
denatured alcohol
silicone grease or white lithium grease
nonpermanent thread locking agent


Removal
Unless otherwise noted, The following procedures for lever removal are identical for both the front brake lever and the clutch lever.

1. Use an 10mm box end wrench to remove the pivot bolt lock nut which is located under the lever perch.
clchlvrrmvpvtbltlknt.jpg


2. Use an 8mm socket to remove the pivot bolt.
clchlvrrmvpvtblt.jpg

To unscrew and pull the pivot bolt smoothly, apply light pressure to the lever toward the inside of the perch, counteracting the outward pressure of the pushrod (clutch) or plunger switch (brake).

3. Remove the lever from the perch.
rmvclchlvr.jpg

Be careful that the gold pushrod bushing does not drop out of the clutch lever.

rmvbrklvr.jpg

The front brake lever does not have any loose parts installed to it.

Installation
4. Wash the grime from the perch with a rag moistened with silicone spray lube.
clchlvrclnprch.jpg

Use a cotton swab moistened with silicone spray lube to clean the metal push rod (clutch) and gold disc (front brake). Use a cotton swab to clean in the corners of the perch around the rubber dust boot. Avoid applying grease or lube of any kind to the small electronic plastic sensor with push switch to the inside of each lever perch.

5. Clean the pivot bolt and the bushing with silicone spray lube. Use a cotton swab to clean out the hole in the bushing.
clchlvrclnpvtbshg.jpg


6. Clean the silicone residue from the threads of the perch and the pivot bolt with denatured alcohol on a cotton swab.
cleanpvtbltthrds.jpg


7. Apply silicone or white lithium grease to the areas of the lever, perch, pivot, bushing (clutch lever) and plunger switch (front brake lever) where they contact one another.

The clutch lever
grsclchlvrpvt.jpg


The front brake lever
lubbrklvr.jpg


the clutch lever pushrod bushing and inside the hole
grsclchlvrbshg.jpg


...and the pivot shaft of the pivot bolt.
grslvrpivot.jpg


8. Install the pushrod bushing to the clutch lever. Place the lever into to the perch being sure the pushrod seats into the bushing hole. Hold pressure inward on the pushrod or plunger switch to align the perch and lever holes. Insert and thread in the the pivot smoothly.
clchlvrpvtbltnstl.jpg


10. Tighten the the pivot bolt just a bit more than finger tight (torque spec: pivot bolt, 1.8 ft pounds) with a 8mm socket.
pvtboltttn.jpg


11. The pivot bolt locknut has a nylock insert which is designed to prevent it from coming loose. If the lock nuts do not have the nylock insert, use nonpermanent thread locking agent. Tighten the pivot bolt locknut snug. (torque spec: pivot bolt, 4.5 ft pounds) with a 10mm box end wrench. Do not use thread locking agent with nylock nuts.
pvtbltlkntttn.jpg



Weight Increase

OEM levers: 8.60 oz (Clutch lever 4.25 oz, Front Brake lever 4.30 oz )
busalvrswght.jpg


Pazzo Levers: 9.15 oz (clutch lever 4.60 oz, front brake lever 4.60 oz).
pazobusawght.jpg


Net weight increase of .55 oz
 

Gavilan

Registered
#2
Great tutorial, this will be very useful for me, I broke the clutch lever against a wall..
So i will try with some aftermarket levers

Thanks :thumbsup:
 

Mythos

Registered
#7
Woohoo! Someone is taking over for Blanca!

:beerchug:
those would be some really big shoes to fill. But thank you. that is one of the highest compliments I have been paid in a very long time. Most of all, I am glad there are many people on here who really know their wrenching because I usually need to get a good deal of help from them before I get rolling on one of these.

I will say this, if I took better care of my cuticles and scraped the crud out from under my nails once in a while, I might just make some pretty good bread as a hand model...you think?
 

Blanca BusaLess

Suffers from PBSD
Donating Member
Registered
#9
The clocks ticking don't worry. There is nothing stopping me from getting another tomorrow.
Just right now is not the time for a bike in my life. Me thinks a GenIII is around the corner and it may be a good reason to get another one. Let's just hope one comes in white so I don't have to get a new member plaque. :laugh:

But in South Florida this is my daily news. It ain't no joke down here.
Rider down I 95 - SoFlaSportbikes.com - South Florida's Sportbike Community
 

Mythos

Registered
#10
......Just right now is not the time for a bike in my life. Me thinks a GenIII is around the corner and it may be a good reason to get another one. Let's just hope one comes in white so I don't have to get a new member plaque. :laugh:

.......
I was thinking the same thing. Was going to write about it in the last post but decided not to...but since you brought it up, Blanca...

I own the updated Gen 1 ZX-14, 2008. Have the Gen 2 busa, 2008. Love them both.

Gen 2 ZX-14r is out but I'm not really thinking about it. My money will go on the Gen 3 Hayabusa.
 

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