Fork seals

[Blkoutbusa]

Ok, few questions and didn't wanna bump older thread.

$130 said and done from a guy I know. Does good work etc. Oil seals, dust seals, and oil. And labor.

Or DIY? IF DIY, do you bother replacing the dust seals? And I debated going to 7w oil for forks.

Any input? $130 is pretty cheap to not mess with it except fork removal....

 

[Mathewrussell52]

$130 with you pulling the forks?

Dust seals are cheap I wouldn’t try to save $12 there.

After the forks are off it’s a 20 min job.

 

[sixpack577]

At 195lbs in full leathers, 30-32mm sag front/rear stock suspension, I really liked how 7w oil made the forks feel.

 

[GIXERHP]

Oem seals and dust seals are $65 plus the oil,, $130 is a good price if he is Oem parts

 

[bigoltool]

All new seals, and do the springs at least while your in there. If you trust him $130 seems cheap.

 

[mabupa]

You can always by 2 brackets and 2 bolts and modify them to make your own spring compressor. $130 is a good price, but I love learning how to do things I’ve never done before. Also, I agree with 7w oil, but I did springs at the same time too, so not sure what made the biggest difference.

 

[sixpack577]

Cool spring compressor, but you don't have to remove the springs to replace the seals.

 

[GIXERHP]

Cool spring compressor, but you don't have to remove the springs to replace the seals.

To correctly bleed the cartridge yes you do

 

[sixpack577]

To correctly bleed the cartridge yes you do

My mistake, just quoting what I had read here...imagine that.
I have always disassembled the forks by the manuals when replacing the seals.
Now I don't feel like I missed out on a short cut.

 

[Blkoutbusa]

New info: A guy that owns his own suspension company, and is good at it too, said $100 all said and done, both sets of seals and oil. And he will do them while I wait / watch and shoot the breeze.

Just gonna have them done for that price...

 

[sixpack577]

New info: A guy that owns his own suspension company, and is good at it too, said $100 all said and done, both sets of seals and oil. And he will do them while I wait / watch and shoot the breeze.

Just gonna have them done for that price...

That's a steal
oem seals and oil costs nearly, if not that much.

 

[Blkoutbusa]

http://daughertymotorsports.com/

The guy knows his stuff! Very confident in the product and price!

 

[no1sun]

This has been done to death but my experience....
Just followed the threads here to change my leaking fork seals on my 2008 Gen 2.
Got OEM parts from the local dealer and both seals, dust caps and clips were £78. Seemed a bit pricey and saw some on the internet at lot cheaper but at least they were genuine. I very much doubt Suzuki manufacture their own seals but hopefully some subsupplier is making them to a known spec.
I removed the front wheel, mudguard, brakes etc while on paddock stands.
To support the bike I prised apart (not removed) the two side fairings and with the bike on front and back paddock stands I packed up with wood on either side of the exhausts onto the engine and then removed front paddock stand and the bike settled down. Seemed pretty stable.
Removed small plastic cowling under light (2 x 10mm socket either side of the horn.
The shock is connected with an alun screw (6mm? Not sure what size it was) on the upper yoke and two bolts (12mm spanner) on the lower yoke. Just gently rotate it out once slacked.
To dismantle the shock assembly I turned the shock upside down and placed it next to the bench. I put two pieces of wood to protect top nut. I used a 50 x 50 (2” x 2”) long wooden baton to lever under the bench with me sitting on the other end like a see saw with the shock in the middle. Compressed the spring assembly down and cracked open the drain screw (8mm alun screw) with an alun key connected to ring spanner and hammer, lol (high tech ). Drained all the oil out and pumped the middle bit until bored. Oil was minging. Left to drain for a day or two then pumped and cleaned everything.
Note: When I removed one of the seas with a screwdriver I scored the internal diameter of the housing. It was quite deep as the tube is soft, but cleaned down, then applied a coat of superglue, then rubbed it down with wet and dry emery cloth. Repeated two more times till smooth and totally filled.
Reassembled everything then the added oil. Some Motul 5W. I used a big syring and poured in through one of the holes in the spring assembly near to top. Around 525ml. Tightened the tube up to the top cap and O ring (I didn’t have a replacement). Once the shocks were in the bike I pushed though and held with a screw from the lower yoke (12mm spanner) and gave the top cap a tweak (24mm spanner) Shocks seemed fine and are back on the bike. Tomorrow I will put back on the front mudguard brakes and wheel.
I have always avoided doing this but it was easy, just don’t score the housing like I did. ( but at least you know how to sort it)
Looking forward to getting back out on the bike. The Scottish summer is here.

 

[bussassin417]

First, no way I'm going this job. I only upgrade cosmetic parts on my bike. Safety maintenance is done by the professional.

I supply parts to my mechanic. Of these 3 companies, which one do you suggest using:

All Balls
Core Motorcycle Works
Cycleto

Also, when going this job; aside from dusk & fork seals - do you need new clips/rings/garments that come in the OEM kit ?

Thanks in advance

 

[bird1300]

I'm doing mine now and taking my time doing it. I purchased the o rings, copper washers, seals, and dust shields. Basically everything but the clips, all Genuine Suzuki parts.

 

[mabupa]

First, no way I'm going this job. I only upgrade cosmetic parts on my bike. Safety maintenance is done by the professional.

I supply parts to my mechanic. Of these 3 companies, which one do you suggest using:

All Balls
Core Motorcycle Works
Cycleto

Also, when going this job; aside from dusk & fork seals - do you need new clips/rings/garments that come in the OEM kit ?

View attachment 1593490
Thanks in advance

I read several comments stating OEM was the way to go, so that’s what I did. Also, the hardest part of that job is gathering the needed tools and finding a way to support the front of the bike.

 

[bussassin417]

... OEM ... the way to go ...

Will do search to find best priced OEM kit.

Thanks again

 

[bussassin417]

Should bushings be replaced when seals are replaced ?

 

[Mathewrussell52]

Should bushings be replaced when seals are replaced ?

View attachment 1593492

No but you can inspect them usually you can feel the tube wobble if they are bad.

 

[bussassin417]

... inspect them ...

Are they easy to replace when replacing the seals ?

Don't want to "waste" the opportunity when seals are being done; especially if they wear about the rate as seals.