Wheelie
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Advice from you 1/4 mile experts. Went 9.72 today
- Thread starter twinvipers
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Wheelie
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lol, yeah I read that, dude just do a air pressure adjustment and you will go faster, won't cost you anything
wee
twinvipers
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Will drop air and go back.
How about a 2" over arm? Does someone sell them at only 2 over?
How about a 2" over arm? Does someone sell them at only 2 over?
twinvipers
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thanks
twinvipers
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would that be the clutch mod?
Wheelie
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twinvipers
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thanks
twinvipers
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What are your thoughts on lowering the bike to the bottom of the links? And triple clamp to lower front? Will it net better times at the track?
That's been answerd by about 5 different people already. rule of thumb is .10 for every whole you lower it.
As long as there are not bottoming out issues, yes. The lower it is, the better times. Fast08s .1 per Inch is pretty spot on. Actually anything you can do to lower the center of gravity will help. Running a seat pan will get the rider down another inch. There is a reason the cut the seat rails on the grudge bikes!!
I feel there is a need to work on the front forks. Best fix have them cut internally to limit the travel and lower it. Preloaded heavily on both the downside and the top-out spring. Ofcourse this would not work for us guys that still ride the bikes other than at the drag strip. I bought a spare set to build and never did it. For dual purpose bikes I found the tree works well in combination with the strap. I lowered it with the tree about most of the way and then pulled it down the last 1/4â€or so†with the strap. The forced the front wheel assembly to come up at the same time the front started rising. This in turn reduces the inertia of the rise during the launch.
Think about an autobody slide hammer. Screw it into the panel. Slide the weight all the way to the user end against the stop and pull. Now move it 2†toward the screw end and pull again. Which made the panel move the most?
The rider getting his weight down against the bike helps as well. You don’t want the bike to move under you. Your feet should also be on the ground during the launch as far back as possible. It gives you the leverage to press the bike into the track on the launch. (wears your boots pretty good also)
Also be careful, too low can meet with bad results when the bike gets too high and slams back down. Damaged header tubes, and broken oil pans are usually the result. ZX14s are more prone to that happening, but I’ve seen a few broken busas.
Forgot to add. I don't know what to tell you for sure on "your" lowering links. I've had 4 different sets in my hand at the same time and none of the holes matched. So it would depend on who built them. You want to avoid touching the tire to the undertail regardless.
Draco1340
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The general order of insanity I recommend to people starting off is the following. Most of these things have been discussed, so its really just intended to show the order of mods.
Lower - straps and links are first place to start. Slam it as low as possible without hitting anything.
Tougher - as soon as you start hammering bike, you need to ditch the 2 piece clutch hub. Put a good chain on as well. Stock ones are junk. A broken chain can ruin you day / life.
Longer - only way to address wheelies. If you want a good 60', you need to hammer full throttle out of the lights. Gen II bikes run into problems clearing tail section much more than Gen I bikes.
Stickier - The minute you stretch, you need a tire. Shinko US seems to be best bang for buck. If you don't want to put a tire on, don't stretch.
Stiffer - the minute you put a stretch more than 3", you need to revalve your shock. Stock one is designed for stock length. Longer one needs way more spring preload, and rebound and compression damping, or you will spin.
Lighter - OK, so now you have your 60' times down around 1.40, so its time to work on the 330'. Get the lead out. Start from the back of the bike first. If you take all the weight off the front, your back looking at the sky. Taking 40 lbs off your bike is WAY easier and cheaper than adding 20 HP.
Stronger - we all want more powerful bikes, but adding more power should be the last thing you do to go faster. Power gives you MPH, but it doesn't change ET that radically. I have seen many 400 HP turbos get beat by stock motor bikes with good chassis setups.
Lower - straps and links are first place to start. Slam it as low as possible without hitting anything.
Tougher - as soon as you start hammering bike, you need to ditch the 2 piece clutch hub. Put a good chain on as well. Stock ones are junk. A broken chain can ruin you day / life.
Longer - only way to address wheelies. If you want a good 60', you need to hammer full throttle out of the lights. Gen II bikes run into problems clearing tail section much more than Gen I bikes.
Stickier - The minute you stretch, you need a tire. Shinko US seems to be best bang for buck. If you don't want to put a tire on, don't stretch.
Stiffer - the minute you put a stretch more than 3", you need to revalve your shock. Stock one is designed for stock length. Longer one needs way more spring preload, and rebound and compression damping, or you will spin.
Lighter - OK, so now you have your 60' times down around 1.40, so its time to work on the 330'. Get the lead out. Start from the back of the bike first. If you take all the weight off the front, your back looking at the sky. Taking 40 lbs off your bike is WAY easier and cheaper than adding 20 HP.
Stronger - we all want more powerful bikes, but adding more power should be the last thing you do to go faster. Power gives you MPH, but it doesn't change ET that radically. I have seen many 400 HP turbos get beat by stock motor bikes with good chassis setups.
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Very good info.
Thought I might add to this one. If you are over 170lbs on a Gen I bike, likely you are under sprung/valved already. Adding length is only going to make it worse. The Gen II bike is setup for a bit bigger person so maybe 190-200lbs. Gen I guys could swap to a Gen II shock and spring for a cheap change to get some improvement. It has a bit stiffer rate spring. Actually very close to the aftermarket spring I am using on my revalved drag shock with the extended arm.
BusaTrip
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Professor and Draco1340, I think you 2 two could come together and make a great detailed guide to Drag racing. One that would be at the top of a thread and maybe pinned so it is easy to find. Included could be some detailed info on such things as when is a good time to add a full exhaust and map, adding ballast, and air shifters and such. Mainly pointing out some of the mods and the order of priority. Maybe give some insight to how much each mod contributes to gaining performance. I would also love to see it formatted like a "map" so to speak. for instance...some of us are going the route Professor went by not stretching. that would mean ballast and different launching technics. Having that info on one page would be awsome. even include where you can get some of the items needed. 
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