Abs hard line removal help

Greg we do not have the inspection police party yet of Bull Crap !
Now why remove ABS ?? Weight , and the Gen 2 Hayabusa system is not very good compared to others . Brake feel is another Reason . No mater what both my 2014 , and my brothers 2015 ABS hayabusa's feel like garbage in the lever . While a 2019 ABS Suzuki V strom 1000 feels like a champ !
To those who also say why remove ? Some people can ride to a level that we do not want interference or rider aids .
My new Tiger 1200 XCX every time I get on I go to modes , and select off road pro . This turns everything OFF . TC / ABS are now disabled fully . Then I go to suspension settings , and on the fly adjust to a Road setting . ITs a beautiful thing . Wheelie , power slide it with no nanny interference , and the Lever feels awesome .
 
c10 said:
Greg we do not have the inspection police party yet of Bull Crap !
Now why remove ABS ?? Weight , and the Gen 2 Hayabusa system is not very good compared to others . Brake feel is another Reason . No mater what both my 2014 , and my brothers 2015 ABS hayabusa's feel like garbage in the lever . While a 2019 ABS Suzuki V strom 1000 feels like a champ !
To those who also say why remove ? Some people can ride to a level that we do not want interference or rider aids .
My new Tiger 1200 XCX every time I get on I go to modes , and select off road pro . This turns everything OFF . TC / ABS are now disabled fully . Then I go to suspension settings , and on the fly adjust to a Road setting . ITs a beautiful thing . Wheelie , power slide it with no nanny interference , and the Lever feels awesome .
Click to expand...
My buddy who owns a bike shop rides an African Twin...he wondered why it was such a 'dog' when he was riding it and had one of his tech look at it...it turns out he had it in 'gravel mode' which reduced the power and upped the ABS system...

I asked him why he didn't read the manual...to that he just smiled and said who does?? He then said, I will now..

He said with the systems shut off it is a totally different animal...

IF we get another gen Hayabusa, it will be full electronic aid equipped...
 
I read manuals front to back . :) about 30 pages into the Big Tiger service manual . No timing marks on the engines .You use a 6 mm pin in the block to locate TDC , and then use cam block tool to check timing of adjustable from the factory cam sprockets . 6 nm tool to set cam chain tension after that .

My Triumph dealer has offered me a job as I knew more about the tigers than anyone there. It shouldn't be that way though .
 
It looks like if I remove the shock but leave the swinger in place I might be able to remove the rear lines intact?What do you guys think?
 
murphc13 said:
A side note on this legal bs.
Is it possible to use a dash unit from a non abs Gen2 on a Gen 2 with abs removed?(I understand the mileage is kept in the dash).
Click to expand...
Why would you want to swap the dash??
 
c10 said:
Same plug both units just a extra pin out / light on ABS model
Click to expand...
Thanks Bryan.Bryan should I be able to remove the rear hard lines and keep them intact if I remove the upper shock bolt/nut and let the swingarm hang down out of the way?
 
murphc13 said:
Thanks Bryan.Bryan should I be able to remove the rear hard lines and keep them intact if I remove the upper shock bolt/nut and let the swingarm hang down out of the way?
Click to expand...
Not sure its been a few minutes since I deleted mine , but as I said I just cut everything out . Used a 18" 1/4 extension 8 mm wobler to get the stupid silver hold down bracket that is on the foot brake side , but you have to reach it from the shift side
 
c10 said:
Not sure its been a few minutes since I deleted mine , but as I said I just cut everything out . Used a 18" 1/4 extension 8 mm wobler to get the stupid silver hold down bracket that is on the foot brake side , but you have to reach it from the shift side
Click to expand...
I was able to un bolt it just not get the line out, but with the shock out it may wiggle out! I hated the ABS on mine
 
c10 said:
Not sure its been a few minutes since I deleted mine , but as I said I just cut everything out . Used a 18" 1/4 extension 8 mm wobler to get the stupid silver hold down bracket that is on the foot brake side , but you have to reach it from the shift side
Click to expand...
Ok cheers mate.I’ve already had to use a few 3/8 extension bars to reach the banjo bolt on the rear master(from the shift side) as I nearly rounded the bolt with a spanner.
Thanks guys for the help.
 
Berlin Germany said:
@murphc13

two ways to get steel braided into the abs

1.
the flex. parts are threaded into/onto the hard lines.
to replace - only - the rubber lines by steel braided you can order these parts with standard banyos at the one side and threads at their other. a good dealer should know what banjo/thread-combination you need.

2.
tearing out the entire lines - hard and soft ones
with two banjos - at both (steel braided) sides (cut em simply off as c10 wrote - you won´t need them any more)
BUT
then pay big attention to ALL the banjo bolts into the abs-hu/pump
their inner thread is m10x1.0 (or x1.25 - i don´t remember savely sorry)
the thread length inside the pump is shorter than the bolts need in depth - caused by this either you must shorten/cut these 4 bolts (2-3 mm)
or you have to use a second washer between banjo and pump (one above + two under => 3 washers per connection/bolt are needed)
otherwise the screw connection to the hu-pump will not be tight or you will destroy the thread / connection in the pump. that I know for 100% sure from my brake-conversion of my '00 when I implanted her the abs.

3.
to avoid the cross over line (the sad air consumption point) at the front wheel (from rh to lh caliper) you can use two long lines from the pump to each caliper and connect this pair by a double banjo bolt with also! two washers between the lower banjo and the pump. (=> 4 washers needed)
that I also know for 100% sure from my conversion of a turbo-'01 when I implanted her an abs in 2018.
see the pic with red arrow and round
View attachment 1630158

and it you were as smart as me ;) you use this kind of double banjo bolt (also with 4 washers!)
it got the bleeder already inside and the bleeding ot the two front lines is as easy as to pi$$ a hole into the snow. (rubb? germanlish - loool)
View attachment 1630159
little note aside:
i used that kind of bolt at the end at the brake-conversion above too ;)
Click to expand...
Do you have a link to where you got that bolt with the bleeder on top? I installed my brake kit already but I’d like to have that bolt. Thanks
 
BusaBenny said:
Do you have a link to where you got that bolt with the bleeder on top? I installed my brake kit already but I’d like to have that bolt. Thanks
Click to expand...

here at probrake.de

Entluefter-Bleeder.jpg


m10 x 1.00 single Item number: Z0019
double Item number: Z0031

m10 x 1.25 single Item number: Z0020
double Item number: Z0023

and yes - they deliver to the us too ;) - i already asked their boss and he said yes. ;)

and watch the prices - isn´t cheap, but it´s for live - stainless all parts i guess
and i have no clue what the german post will ask for shipping to the us - might be high.
(see this page - intl. shipping)

little hint:
if u use em put 3 layers of (sanitary) teflon tape around the bleeder´s thread
the how to: (written like for stonemasons to chisel - lol- )
at first make the thread a lil bit rough - scratch it all around a bit with a saw blade
then hold the screw in your left hand, thread to the right and turn the tape, away from you, around 3 times and squeeze/smooth it a bit into the thread.
 
Berlin Germany said:
here at probrake.de

View attachment 1632879

m10 x 1.00 single Item number: Z0019
double Item number: Z0031

m10 x 1.25 single Item number: Z0020
double Item number: Z0023

and yes - they deliver to the us too ;) - i already asked their boss and he said yes. ;)

and watch the prices - isn´t cheap, but it´s for live - stainless all parts i guess
and i have no clue what the german post will ask for shipping to the us - might be high.
(see this page - intl. shipping)

little hint:
if u use em put 3 layers of (sanitary) teflon tape around the bleeder´s thread
the how to: (written like for stonemasons to chisel - lol- )
at first make the thread a lil bit rough - scratch it all around a bit with a saw blade
then hold the screw in your left hand, thread to the right and turn the tape, away from you, around 3 times and squeeze/smooth it a bit into the thread.
Click to expand...
You’re the best. I’ll be ordering mine soon enough.
 
BusaBenny said:
You’re the best. I’ll be ordering mine soon enough.
Click to expand...

grin your welcome

and go to a craftman´s shop for sanitary/heating and get the teflon tape there - others (from walmart etc.) could be not that good quality.
you need only that one for water-leading pipes instead of gas-leading pipes.
they are a bit different (here in germany seen by the taperoller - for water it is yellow, for gas red)

and only at the bleeder - not at the screw itself ;)
 
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