Gen 3 ABS delete

[MonkeyButtRides]

Any help would be appreciated.

Here is a thread someone else pointed me to. I haven't executed this yet so I can't speak to the validity of the process in relation to a Gen3 but I would be willing to bet it's not far off if at all. Yes the Gen3 has way more nanny aids but so what. TC and ABS do not have to be directly related to each other, my ZX10 has TC but no ABS, there is no reason for they have to go hand in hand.

All that said the ABS on the Gen3 is pretty non intrusive on the front for street riding.

ABS delete tech / turning off abs gauge light | Gen 2 Busa Information

Ground the Brown wire on abs unit ;)

www.hayabusa.org

 

[TonyM995]

Post photos off unit and location . I did the work for Gen 2 delete , and what to wire through .

Hi @c10 thanks for posting! As @smithabusa noted in another post, the communication used ins CAN. I have the service manual but not enough knowledge to consider myself a mechanic so this is a lot of growing pains for me.

It seems like to remove the abs unit you would need to determine what other electronics rely on those messages and create a device that can deliver those messages in absence of the abs unit. What do you think?

Video on CAN for anyone looking to learn:

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To those asking why remove abs, I wanted to keep this on topic of how to but here you go- I’ve owned 4 road race bikes and still have/ride one. In Colorado that doesn’t give me a ton of riding time. Last year I bought a 2021 Ktm super duke 1290 and it’s nice but I wanted to go faster and do some drag racing since I’m more comfortable riding at a track. So I bought the gen3 and am planning to do a turbo kit and built motor.

The front lever on the busa is soft and often needs a few pumps to be firm. That’s scary to me when trying to slow down from 160+ mph.

Removing the abs and upgrading the lines would give me a firm consistent lever every time. Sure this isn’t a road race bike but if I’m going to put a turbo on then I want the best brakes possible.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

The front lever on the busa is soft and often needs a few pumps to be firm. That’s scary to me when trying to slow down from 160+ mph.

Removing the abs and upgrading the lines would give me a firm consistent lever every time. Sure this isn’t a road race bike but if I’m going to put a turbo on then I want the best brakes possible.

Several here are having this problem on the new bike where after some time the pressure is gone. This is a flaw with some of the gen 3 bikes. Be aggressive with the dealership. The answer is currently unknown. It is possible that you may fix it with these changes but please be aware that it is not a weakness but instead is a severe and unexpected problem of unknown origin.

 

[Ked0607]

Pretty sure Chris Moore has a video where he has disconnected ABS and most of the ABS removed his rear brake and one side of the front, capped the ABS unit and left it installed with no problems.

Yea he is giving that bike away for the next giveaway.

 

[c10]

One can physically bypass by all new lines / leaving the unit in the communication ring . On my systems in life saftey we call it SLC = signal line circuit and once made through communications continue to other items on the SLC circuit . in your case the Can bus circuit .
Likely when you unplug the unit like the ( Gen 2 ) the feed of TWO can bus wires ( high / lo as seen in manual ) is broken to other equipment relying on comms / signal from the Can bus .

I would need a bike for quiet awhile to figure out the wiring , and a work around bypass . It may be very likely even if I figure out the wire bypass a code may become present , and unable to remove like the ABS code/light on the gen 2 model .

 

[c10]

Looking at diagram the reason bike may not start once unplugged is the IMU # 4 in diagram is retuning Can Bus to #5 ECM = no start .

 

[smithabusa]

One can physically bypass by all new lines / leaving the unit in the communication ring . On my systems in life saftey we call it SLC = signal line circuit and once made through communications continue to other items on the SLC circuit . in your case the Can bus circuit .
Likely when you unplug the unit like the ( Gen 2 ) the feed of TWO can bus wires ( high / lo as seen in manual ) is broken to other equipment relying on comms / signal from the Can bus .

I would need a bike for quiet awhile to figure out the wiring , and a work around bypass . It may be very likely even if I figure out the wire bypass a code may become present , and unable to remove like the ABS code/light on the gen 2 model .

I've been messing with trying to get the dash working with no suzuki ECU, and out of the 22 CAN messages on the bus, there are 11 that have to be there for the dash to seem happy and work. 2 of them are from the ABS unit (it has 4 total). i have been taking CAN logs of the entire bus, then going back and removing messages one by one and playing back the log into the CAN stream with no Suzuki ECU present to see how stuff works.
But every message has the 7th or 8th byte with a counter that goes from 0-15, 12-27, 100-115 that it counts over and over. Seems the dash is looking for all of this for it to be happy.

 

[c10]

I've been messing with trying to get the dash working with no suzuki ECU, and out of the 22 CAN messages on the bus, there are 11 that have to be there for the dash to seem happy and work. 2 of them are from the ABS unit (it has 4 total). i have been taking CAN logs of the entire bus, then going back and removing messages one by one and playing back the log into the CAN stream with no Suzuki ECU present to see how stuff works.
But every message has the 7th or 8th byte with a counter that goes from 0-15, 12-27, 100-115 that it counts over and over. Seems the dash is looking for all of this for it to be happy.

So essentially a digital type of key to get functions . Simply bypassing the ABS by a wire through the Can bus will not achieve a start or run function .

 

[PeregrineKeith]

Pretty sure Chris Moore has a video where he has disconnected ABS and most of the ABS removed his rear brake and one side of the front, capped the ABS unit and left it installed with no problems.

I think this is correct. My bike has one rotor up front only. The abs unit is still there and acts accordingly yet I have no rear brake hardware or lines and only one up front. I’m not sure how he did it but other than the reduced stopping power it works just fine.

 

[PeregrineKeith]

Yea he is giving that bike away for the next giveaway.

Mine is the same way I believe

 

[smithabusa]

Bump on this topic, i started a new one as well forgetting this one was here. Pretty confident I can do it, BUT there are some drawbacks.

I've had some people ask to do this. What are your goals? Remove ABS, but keep speedo and traction control? This will require wiring for wheel speed sensors to work without the stock ABS Unit in place (and can't be plug and play, you will have to remove 2 wires from the 48 pin ECU connector, they are easy to extract though), and will require a box to be plugged into the red diagnostic connector in the tail to keep the ABS lamp off (assuming that is what you want). Hill hold won't work, cruise control cancel from front or rear brake won't work, indicators on dash for front and rear brake pressure won't work. I am sure there is other stuff too (linked braking) but those are some quick ones off the top of my head.

Wheelspeed sensor goes bad or out of alignment wouldn't produce a code either.

Also, the ABS valve on it's own without lines weight about 3lb 4 ounces for reference. with the bracket.

***intended off-road use and test purposes only***