2003 Gsxr1000

[sixpack577]

I just checked the valves.
15 right in the middle of spec, and one exhaust valve at the higher end...but in spec!
No need to swap shims, yay!

 

[sixpack577]

The Clymer service manual shows a K&N air filter
lol

 

[Bumblebee]

I just checked the valves.
15 right in the middle of spec, and one exhaust valve at the higher end...but in spec!
No need to swap shims, yay!

View attachment 1671118

I suck at adjusting bucket and shim type valves....even with following the service manual.

 

[sixpack577]

I suck at adjusting bucket and shim type valves....even with following the service manual.

It's not bad, I just check the timing multiple times...and I'm always concerned until they start, lol
I zip-tie the timing chain to a cam gear to keep it where it was whenever possible too.


I'm putting the rotors on the front wheel now, about to have a roller again.
I'll post some pictures soon.

 

[sixpack577]

But...I was ready...

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

I never did it myself but I’ve watched it done on CBXs. First the motor has to be tilted forward and then 24, yes, 24 valves have to be checked. Thankfully they don’t go out of spec very often. In all the miles I rode them only three were ever out of spec and they were loose not tight. Too tight and you never know it until BANG. Too loose is just noisy.

Does anyone remember Bultacos or the Maicos or Pentons? They were the kickazz dirt bikes of my youth. They were incredibly quick but probably pale in comparison to those of today, not just in power but suspensions too. And drum brakes? What are those?

 

[mabupa]

I never did it myself but I’ve watched it done on CBXs. First the motor has to be tilted forward and then 24, yes, 24 valves have to be checked. Thankfully they don’t go out of spec very often. In all the miles I rode them only three were ever out of spec and they were loose not tight. Too tight and you never know it until BANG. Too loose is just noisy.

Does anyone remember Bultacos or the Maicos or Pentons? They were the kickazz dirt bikes of my youth. They were incredibly quick but probably pale in comparison to those of today, not just in power but suspensions too. And drum brakes? What are those?

My great grandmother’s Honda cub had drum brakes and they were horrible!!!!

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

My great grandmother’s Honda cub had drum brakes and they were horrible!!!!

My 1970 CB750-4 had a single disc up front and a drum in the rear. The brakes were considered a huge step forward too.

 

[sixpack577]

The new Brembo rotors are on, they only weigh about an ounce and a half less than the stock pair, lol, but every little bit counts.
Regardless, these are the rotors that I wanted, for quality materials that'll last.
The stock rotors were done, rashed with every button siezed too, lol

 

[sixpack577]

Balances perfectly as always

 

[sixpack577]

Rolling again...

 

[sixpack577]

Chain and chain guard on
16t/-1 front sprocket on it.
I kept the stock size 17t 520 front too, both are Vortex, as is the stock 42 tooth Vortex rear aluminum

 

[sixpack577]

New stator cover and gasket

 

[sixpack577]

Valve cover on
New throttle-body boot o-rings

 

[sixpack577]

Delkevic real carbon fiber slip-on with stainless steel midpipe, and removeable insert.
This is the 18" muffler, the next smaller was 14"
It looks really long, but I'll wait until the tail is on to tell.
I figured all along I'de cut one or two inches off of it some point.
But, it is very well made, with great hardware.
For these years, and many others, the slip-on is not only a weight loss, and a little power from the straight through design, but it eliminates the factory midpipe valve, which really regulates and limits power, to make the bikes less aggressive....booooo.
The factory titanium header also only weighs 4.8 lbs, so it's still a good set of pipes pipes.
The muffler was $289
and is as good or better quality than most pipes that cost up to twice as much.

 

[sixpack577]

New header gaskets
And stainless steel bolts.
The steel bolts even weigh the same as the stock steel.
14.5 grams each...but the stainless look Much better than the scuzzy stock ones did(I put anti-seize on the threads as usual, espcially with a ss fastener going into an aluminum thread).
What's worse, is that you guys have me weighing fasteners now...
Parts, sure, but fasteners, and not even titanium!
Lol, but I was curious

 

[sixpack577]

I put the throttle body boots on with 4 new oem o-rings.
Then cleaned the fuel injectors, and replaced their filters and o-rings...and the 4 lower o-rings are the wrong ones, so I'm waiting for replacements to get here.
I cleaned the injectors by spraying fuel injector cleaner through them, then from the other direction, while activating them temporarily with a battery and a couple leads.
Fortunaty they were clean to start with, and had a good spray pattern, consistent accross all 4.
If you've never done this, the Gen1 and Gen2 Busas are done the same way.
Remove the old filters from the injectors first.
To do this, thread a bolt into the open end of the filter, which is on the fuel rail side of the injector.
An M4x1.0 size works well, and is common throughout Japanese motorcycles.
This is a phillips head, and thread it in gently with a small screwdriver until it stops.
Then, put the fastener head in a vice(or put a big washer on the bolt first for grip...and be really strong, lol), pull up on the injector and it will lift off of the old filter and the bolt.
Set the new filter in place, and it will need pushed in with some force.
I have always found it easiest to put the filter's outer end down on the workbench(with it started in the injector), and carefully push the injector down on to the new filter until it sits flush.
I always put vaseoline on all new o-rings too, as it helps prevent damage on installation.

 

[sixpack577]

I disassembled the rear caliper and cleaned it, and have a rebuid kit with new seals and pad bolt, with new Ebc sintered pads to put together next.
Your Busa calipers are very similiar in appearance, and function the same, so the rebuild process is the same.
Fortunately the pistons were not corroded.
Once the brake fluid gets old, it begins breaking down from heat cycles, and it will eventually eat seals, allowing moisture in, causing damage and failure from corrosion.
This is why brake fluid is to be changed every 2 seasons, so it performs at it's best without causing future problems, and to change it before it starts to become caustic.
'Well, I take care of my bike and the fluid looks clean in the resivor'.
Ok, as it can take a little longer than 2 years before you may notice the fluid discoloring; but do you know what the fluid in the calipers looks like?
Contrary to what most think, brake/hydraulic fluid is not moving around everywhere in the lines.
The line is full, and the fluid moves back and forth in the line, much like a flexible solid.
So, that means that the majority of the fluid in the line, remains in it's current location...including in the calipers, behind the pistons.
Don't belive it?
See for yourself.
The fluid in the rear master cylinder resivor and line was clean and clear...but look what's in the caliper, the fluid looks like mud, and if you didn't know that it was brake fluid, you would assume it's mud.
This is also Not an isolated incident.
I have worked on so many old and neglected brakes...and they All look like this eventually.
But, if you change the fluid every couple years, the correct way, by vacuuming out the old fluid, which gets out All of the fluid, including the cruddy stuff in the calipers, then the seals last much longer.
The seals that come out of calipers in this condition are very soft and fragile, and at the point of failing at any moment as a result, as friction, heat, and wearing hydraulic fluid are all constantly degrading them.
Do your brake maintenance folks, it's cheaper and safer in the long run.

 

[Bumblebee]

I disassembled the rear caliper and cleaned it, and have a rebuid kit with new seals and pad bolt, with new Ebc sintered pads to put together next.
Your Busa calipers are very similiar in appearance, and function the same, so the rebuild process is the same.
Fortunately the pistons were not corroded.
Once the brake fluid gets old, it begins breaking down from heat cycles, and it will eventually eat seals, allowing moisture in, causing damage and failure from corrosion.
This is why brake fluid is to be changed every 2 seasons, so it performs at it's best without causing future problems, and to change it before it starts to become caustic.
'Well, I take care of my bike and the fluid looks clean in the resivor'.
Ok, as it can take a little longer than 2 years before you may notice the fluid discoloring; but do you know what the fluid in the calipers looks like?
Contrary to what most think, brake/hydraulic fluid is not moving around everywhere in the lines.
The line is full, and the fluid moves back and forth in the line, much like a flexible solid.
So, that means that the majority of the fluid in the line, remains in it's current location...including in the calipers, behind the pistons.
Don't belive it?
See for yourself.
The fluid in the rear master cylinder resivor and line was clean and clear...but look what's in the caliper, the fluid looks like mud, and if you didn't know that it was brake fluid, you would assume it's mud.
This is also Not an isolated incident.
I have worked on so many old and neglected brakes...and they All look like this eventually.
But, if you change the fluid every couple years, the correct way, by vacuuming out the old fluid, which gets out All of the fluid, including the cruddy stuff in the calipers.
The seals that come out of calipers in this condition are very soft and fragile, and at the point of failing at any moment as a result, as friction, heat, and wearing hydraulic fluid are all constantly degrading them.
Do your brake maintenance folks, it's cheaper and safer in the long run.

View attachment 1671446

View attachment 1671447

View attachment 1671448

@Berlin Germany would be proud of you....

Nasty looking fluid you have there.....good job in getting it sorted out.

 

[sixpack577]

@Berlin Germany would be proud of you....

Nasty looking fluid you have there.....good job in getting it sorted out.

Lmao

I'm sure the front calipers will be the same too...