When changing your oil?

[Fastfrog007]

Ill be darned, I was actuallly doin somthing right for once

 

[majestic12]

I was always taught to do it warm because it might keep the some of the heavier particles suspended in the oil.

 

[mr8ball]

I do mine after a warm up as well. I never take the plastics off. I have learned to get my hand in there and get the filter out with out going through all that work I put the filter pliers through the cut out and wala it's loose. I take the bolt out of the side and the push pins out of the bottom put it out and snake my arm around and turn the filter off. Spray it down with carb cleaner to get the excess oil off. Saves me a lot of time.

 

[MEBusa]

Warm to very warm here

 

[masterblaster]

After the first 3 changes it does not matter. The filter catches all the particles after the major wear in is done.

 

[The Big Red One]

I do mine after a warm up as well. I never take the plastics off. I have learned to get my hand in there and get the filter out with out going through all that work I put the filter pliers through the cut out and wala it's loose. I take the bolt out of the side and the push pins out of the bottom put it out and snake my arm around and turn the filter off. Spray it down with carb cleaner to get the excess oil off. Saves me a lot of time.

I tried that on my gen1 with yoshi exhaust, wasn't happening. I HAVE found if you remove the small inner piece (next to the radiator) with the 3 screws (and one push pin) on the inside of the fairing first, and put it on last, the whole fairing is a snap to get off and on. That little piece is what really makes the gen1 a pain. All you need is an elbow phillips screwdriver, or a 1/4 inch socket with a phillips tip and you're golden.

 

[mr8ball]

I have never changed it on the Gen 1 I have the 08 Gen 11 and just found it easier for me. I have small hands and arms which makes it easier I guess Sometimes it pays to be a small man

 

[kromdom]

I follow the recommended procedure described in p.40 of the Gen II service manual: Service manuals for Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycles

 

[StromBusa]

I also open the fill cap to let the hot oil out as fast as possible hoping to flush out any sludge, let it drip for a while, and replace the fill cap until I'm ready to add oil (to aviod knocking dirt or bits into the crankcase). I blast the magnet channel in the drain plug with wd40 then blow it off with air, and repeat a couple times. Always hand start the plug, and use a torque wrench to seat it proper. Use a super clean funnel, and keep rags, tools, and everything clean. I use a very short "stubby" ratchet and steel filter wrench along with some patience to spin the filter on and off. I generally try to avoid doing things things like dropping the drain plug into the steel filings under the bench grinder, using an impact driver to start the oil plug, using lawnmower oil, discount oil, or anything but Mobil 1 in my Hayabusa, draining cold engines (could save some oil though...) using cheater bars to tighten oil plugs, skipping oil & filterchanges, stretching oil changes past 3000 miles, letting other people do it, and mixing oils. At 21000 miles I just completed my 8'th oil & filter change, and this bike is still growng on me, I want her running tip top.

 

[jellyrug]

i warm up the motor because i was taught that when you drain it cold the top part of the motor has a span of time where it doesnt get lubricated when you start it up after you add oil to it cold which can cause damage

Never thought about that, it makes very good sense.

 

[bigjack7679]

i warm up the motor because i was taught that when you drain it cold the top part of the motor has a span of time where it doesnt get lubricated when you start it up after you add oil to it cold which can cause damage

But wouldn't this hold true for everyday cold start up? One of the benefits of synthetics is that they are very slippery and do a better job of staying on the internals parts better.

 

[Tm@nFL]

You drain the oil while it is hot.
Then just to be sure no sludge or contaminants are left completly disassemble the entire engine.
Wipe down all parts with microfiber towels. Coat all parts with WD40 and blow them dry with an air hose.
Then submerge then in Germ-X, have to be sure there are no bad virus or bacteria are on the engine parts.
Put all parts in an autoclave to make sure they are serialized.

After all that, reasemble the engine in clean room wearing a tyvek suit with respirator.

You just can never be too careful!!

 

[Fastfrog007]

You drain the oil while it is hot.
Then just to be sure no sludge or contaminants are left completly disassemble the entire engine.
Wipe down all parts with microfiber towels. Coat all parts with WD40 and blow them dry with an air hose.
Then submerge then in Germ-X, have to be sure there are no bad virus or bacteria are on the engine parts.
Put all parts in an autoclave to make sure they are serialized.

After all that, reasemble the engine in clean room wearing a tyvek suit with respirator.

You just can never be too careful!!

If I wasnt lazy and WAY to stupid to doin even half that, I would

 

[The Big Red One]

I also open the fill cap to let the hot oil out as fast as possible hoping to flush out any sludge, let it drip for a while, and replace the fill cap until I'm ready to add oil (to aviod knocking dirt or bits into the crankcase). I blast the magnet channel in the drain plug with wd40 then blow it off with air, and repeat a couple times. Always hand start the plug, and use a torque wrench to seat it proper. Use a super clean funnel, and keep rags, tools, and everything clean. I use a very short "stubby" ratchet and steel filter wrench along with some patience to spin the filter on and off. I generally try to avoid doing things things like dropping the drain plug into the steel filings under the bench grinder, using an impact driver to start the oil plug, using lawnmower oil, discount oil, or anything but Mobil 1 in my Hayabusa, draining cold engines (could save some oil though...) using cheater bars to tighten oil plugs, skipping oil & filterchanges, stretching oil changes past 3000 miles, letting other people do it, and mixing oils. At 21000 miles I just completed my 8'th oil & filter change, and this bike is still growng on me, I want her running tip top.

Picky bastid aint'cha

 

[Stoney McSloth]

I ride around all day and then take it to the shop and pay someone else to burn their hands on my oil change. But I didn't know about the baby oil, i've been using Astroglide this whole time.

 

[karnage]

warm is nice but I do it cold so I dont get burned when getting at the oil filter.I have been using zuki oil but I used my last zuki, so I wil be switching maybe to mobil 1 motorcycle oil for close to the same price and I got a good deal on some k&n oil filters on ebay.Oil is a preference really, just dont go car oil.Royal purple would be nice but that stuff is like $10 a quart.

 

[jellyrug]

But wouldn't this hold true for everyday cold start up? One of the benefits of synthetics is that they are very slippery and do a better job of staying on the internals parts better.

Actually, on a normal motor, most wear takes place during starting, when the oil is pumped to all the little critical places. If you do an oil change and renew the filter, it takes a little longer to fill the pump and the filter. So running the motor before draining, gets the oil film in place for a re-start shortly after filling with new oil.

 

[EarlyBird]

I also fill the filter to allow the oil to wick into the paper.... Pretty much priming the filter. Another trick is to pull the efi fuse and turn the engine over till the oil light is out. Insert fuse, and fire it up. After warming up, shut down the engine and wait and check oil level and add as needed.

 

[StromBusa]

You drain the oil while it is hot.
Then just to be sure no sludge or contaminants are left completly disassemble the entire engine.
Wipe down all parts with microfiber towels. Coat all parts with WD40 and blow them dry with an air hose.
Then submerge then in Germ-X, have to be sure there are no bad virus or bacteria are on the engine parts.
Put all parts in an autoclave to make sure they are serialized.



After all that, reasemble the engine in clean room wearing a tyvek suit with respirator.

You just can never be too careful!!

I hope you use the Germ-x with the rust inhibitors...

 

[Fastfrog007]

I also fill the filter to allow the oil to wick into the paper.... Pretty much priming the filter. Another trick is to pull the efi fuse and turn the engine over till the oil light is out. Insert fuse, and fire it up. After warming up, shut down the engine and wait and check oil level and add as needed.

I like that fuse idea, it shall be done.