Ill be darned, I was actuallly doin somthing right for once
I tried that on my gen1 with yoshi exhaust, wasn't happening. I HAVE found if you remove the small inner piece (next to the radiator) with the 3 screws (and one push pin) on the inside of the fairing first, and put it on last, the whole fairing is a snap to get off and on. That little piece is what really makes the gen1 a pain. All you need is an elbow phillips screwdriver, or a 1/4 inch socket with a phillips tip and you're golden.I do mine after a warm up as well. I never take the plastics off. I have learned to get my hand in there and get the filter out with out going through all that work I put the filter pliers through the cut out and wala it's loose. I take the bolt out of the side and the push pins out of the bottom put it out and snake my arm around and turn the filter off. Spray it down with carb cleaner to get the excess oil off. Saves me a lot of time.
i warm up the motor because i was taught that when you drain it cold the top part of the motor has a span of time where it doesnt get lubricated when you start it up after you add oil to it cold which can cause damage
i warm up the motor because i was taught that when you drain it cold the top part of the motor has a span of time where it doesnt get lubricated when you start it up after you add oil to it cold which can cause damage
You drain the oil while it is hot.
Then just to be sure no sludge or contaminants are left completly disassemble the entire engine.
Wipe down all parts with microfiber towels. Coat all parts with WD40 and blow them dry with an air hose.
Then submerge then in Germ-X, have to be sure there are no bad virus or bacteria are on the engine parts.
Put all parts in an autoclave to make sure they are serialized.
After all that, reasemble the engine in clean room wearing a tyvek suit with respirator.
You just can never be too careful!!
Picky bastid aint'chaI also open the fill cap to let the hot oil out as fast as possible hoping to flush out any sludge, let it drip for a while, and replace the fill cap until I'm ready to add oil (to aviod knocking dirt or bits into the crankcase). I blast the magnet channel in the drain plug with wd40 then blow it off with air, and repeat a couple times. Always hand start the plug, and use a torque wrench to seat it proper. Use a super clean funnel, and keep rags, tools, and everything clean. I use a very short "stubby" ratchet and steel filter wrench along with some patience to spin the filter on and off. I generally try to avoid doing things things like dropping the drain plug into the steel filings under the bench grinder, using an impact driver to start the oil plug, using lawnmower oil, discount oil, or anything but Mobil 1 in my Hayabusa, draining cold engines (could save some oil though...) using cheater bars to tighten oil plugs, skipping oil & filterchanges, stretching oil changes past 3000 miles, letting other people do it, and mixing oils. At 21000 miles I just completed my 8'th oil & filter change, and this bike is still growng on me, I want her running tip top.
But wouldn't this hold true for everyday cold start up? One of the benefits of synthetics is that they are very slippery and do a better job of staying on the internals parts better.
You drain the oil while it is hot.
Then just to be sure no sludge or contaminants are left completly disassemble the entire engine.
Wipe down all parts with microfiber towels. Coat all parts with WD40 and blow them dry with an air hose.
Then submerge then in Germ-X, have to be sure there are no bad virus or bacteria are on the engine parts.
Put all parts in an autoclave to make sure they are serialized.
After all that, reasemble the engine in clean room wearing a tyvek suit with respirator.
You just can never be too careful!!
EarlyBird said:I also fill the filter to allow the oil to wick into the paper.... Pretty much priming the filter. Another trick is to pull the efi fuse and turn the engine over till the oil light is out. Insert fuse, and fire it up. After warming up, shut down the engine and wait and check oil level and add as needed.