Wheel Bearing Write Up?

ajblbv

Donating Member
Registered
Just ordered All Balls wheel bearings per mike1180s recommendation. Will be doing this next weekend. Does anyone have a link to a good write up? Numerous threads have referenced how easy it is but few have pics. They are also keen to mention not damaging things and being careful.

So all that being said, any links and experience would be appreciated.
 
I had a local speed shop do mine.

I actually have a free standing press in the garage but didn't want to chance screwing it up. :)
 
IMO you really cannot do this job properly without using a blind bearing puller. Having a large enough hydraulic press is also a big help.

I am not saying it can't be done withhout these tools, but to do it properly you should use them...
 
I will see how much the shop charges. The local yamaha charges 24 dollars to mount a tire if you bring in just the wheels, so maybe they'll do bearing cheap. If not, I'll get into it myself. The write ups do make it seem easy enough.
 
Pry off the dust seals first.
Then I pound mine out whatever way you can.
I use a long brass punch and hammer.
The old ones are garbage after they are removed anyway.
Place the new bearings in the freezer until they are really cold. This will shrink them.
Take the wheel and heat the surface where the bearing will be installed.
I use a hair drier.
Not too much heat like with a torch.
Them I pull in one bearing on 1 side with this simple home made tool. (I don’t like the idea of pounding them in but it works.)
Then do the other side.

Here are 3 pages from the Haynes manual:

Good luck!
Come back if you have problems or questions.

Bearing Tool.JPG


Wheel Bearing 1.jpg


Wheel Bearing 2.jpg


Wheel Bearing 3.JPG
 
I do it very similar to above, I just use an old bearing I ground the outer race down on so it would slip in the recess easily and use it to drive the new bearing home
 
Have a read of this thread:

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/general-bike-related-topics/117125-front-wheel-bearing-question.html

Bottom line is - You can hammer the right hand one in with a socket, but don't hammer in the left one with an old socket, use a bearing puller as described in the Suzuki manual. Hammering them in will ruin them as you need to have a little clearance on the outer race of the left hand one, trust me, I've been there.

Also, the Haynes manual is incorrect, use only the Suzuki manual description for this job. I even emailed Haynes about this and they admitted the bearing puller is the only way to go.
 
i use same method as mike1180, i also have proper bearing punch kit at work.

with ref to front bearings needing small amount of clearance ( obviously i fitted mine wrong when i changed them couple of year ago ) what i dont understand is this , if you dont press the left one all the way home to leave a little clearance , surly when you torque the front axle up this would pull it in tight pressing both bearings tight up to centre bearing spacer .

you cant have every thing tight & leave a gap :whistle:
 
i use same method as mike1180, i also have proper bearing punch kit at work.

with ref to front bearings needing small amount of clearance ( obviously i fitted mine wrong when i changed them couple of year ago ) what i dont understand is this , if you dont press the left one all the way home to leave a little clearance , surly when you torque the front axle up this would pull it in tight pressing both bearings tight up to centre bearing spacer .

you cant have every thing tight & leave a gap :whistle:

When using the bearing puller, the discs of the puller will be flush against both inner and outer race of the bearing. When you tighten up the puller the inner races will meet the spacer and not go any further. This also means that the outer race on the left will not go any further. That's what gives you the clearance on the outer race. There is no clearance needed on the inner race.
So now when you put the wheel on, the axle lip will press the inner races only against the spacer and the outer race of the left hand bearing keeps its clearance.

Clearance is only needed on the outer race of the left hand bearing. If you push the outer race in too much you will get brinnelling over time. I did this also and could feel the notchiness in my bearing when I changed my tyres after about 3k miles.
 
When using the bearing puller, the discs of the puller will be flush against both inner and outer race of the bearing. When you tighten up the puller the inner races will meet the spacer and not go any further. This also means that the outer race on the left will not go any further. That's what gives you the clearance on the outer race. There is no clearance needed on the inner race.
So now when you put the wheel on, the axle lip will press the inner races only against the spacer and the outer race of the left hand bearing keeps its clearance.

Clearance is only needed on the outer race of the left hand bearing. If you push the outer race in too much you will get brinnelling over time. I did this also and could feel the notchiness in my bearing when I changed my tyres after about 3k miles.


gottcha , now i understand ,:thumbsup: thankyou
 
When using the bearing puller, the discs of the puller will be flush against both inner and outer race of the bearing. When you tighten up the puller the inner races will meet the spacer and not go any further. This also means that the outer race on the left will not go any further. That's what gives you the clearance on the outer race. There is no clearance needed on the inner race.
So now when you put the wheel on, the axle lip will press the inner races only against the spacer and the outer race of the left hand bearing keeps its clearance.

Clearance is only needed on the outer race of the left hand bearing. If you push the outer race in too much you will get brinnelling over time. I did this also and could feel the notchiness in my bearing when I changed my tyres after about 3k miles.


gottcha , now i understand ,:thumbsup: thankyou
 
Last edited:
When using the bearing puller, the discs of the puller will be flush against both inner and outer race of the bearing. When you tighten up the puller the inner races will meet the spacer and not go any further. This also means that the outer race on the left will not go any further. That's what gives you the clearance on the outer race. There is no clearance needed on the inner race.
So now when you put the wheel on, the axle lip will press the inner races only against the spacer and the outer race of the left hand bearing keeps its clearance.

Clearance is only needed on the outer race of the left hand bearing. If you push the outer race in too much you will get brinnelling over time. I did this also and could feel the notchiness in my bearing when I changed my tyres after about 3k miles.

Exactly right.
That is why I don't use a hammer, and use a puller.
Thanks Celtic.
 
Would advanced auto have a bearing puller? Or am I looking at going to a motorcycle dealer to find one? Thanks guys
 
What happens if during a tire change you reverse the direction of the front wheel? Now your right bearing is on the left side....without clearance????
 
Opted to let the local shop do it for 49 bucks both wheels. I feel like I could have, esp with the .org at my disposal, but it was an issue of time and also if I screwed it up my bike would be town for a ton of time. So unfortunately no write up from me. Thank you for all the input tho.
 
What happens if during a tire change you reverse the direction of the front wheel? Now your right bearing is on the left side....without clearance????


sure there is a direction arrow on the spoke of the wheel for this reason
 
sure there is a direction arrow on the spoke of the wheel for this reason

If necessary, put your own reference mark of some type.....masking tape, permanent marker dot, whatever on the left side. Well, that's what i would do!
 
Back
Top