I'm sure this has already been asked before but I couldn't find it. What are some things to look for in a used busa? I'm in the market for one in the next few weeks and there are a few to choose from around here. What should I look for besides the normal stuff like signs of being dropped and leaking forks etc. Are there busa specific problems I should be aware of? BTW i'm in the Philly area if anybody is trying to sell. I'm looking for a bike with less than 10,000 miles that's fairly new, 2004 or newer. Thanks everybody and of course i'll post pics when I get it!
Used Busa Question
- Thread starter NickGT
- Start date
Okay, so just the normal stuff it sounds like, no busa specific issues to look for. Thanks! Hope to see you all riding.
On a side note, I don’t see any of you guys mentioning the proper way to break a bike in to these guys with brand new bikes. I wouldn’t recommend following the book. There are some good articles I can link if you guys want. The gist is to use short hard throttle blips up to about 75% of redline on the way home from the stealership (don’t die though) and then drain the oil and then ride it gently for the next 500 miles and it's ready to rock. You want to set the rings and prevent ring lands as well as flush out any metal left over from manufacturing. Also you should be using regular dinosaur oil for break-in it creates greater heat which is actually a good thing. After that switch to a blend or full synthetic. Also if you go long periods between rides make sure you use oil with a good additive package.
On a side note, I don’t see any of you guys mentioning the proper way to break a bike in to these guys with brand new bikes. I wouldn’t recommend following the book. There are some good articles I can link if you guys want. The gist is to use short hard throttle blips up to about 75% of redline on the way home from the stealership (don’t die though) and then drain the oil and then ride it gently for the next 500 miles and it's ready to rock. You want to set the rings and prevent ring lands as well as flush out any metal left over from manufacturing. Also you should be using regular dinosaur oil for break-in it creates greater heat which is actually a good thing. After that switch to a blend or full synthetic. Also if you go long periods between rides make sure you use oil with a good additive package.
I will stick with the book on break-in... There are many that try a hard break-in, but sounds like a formula for disaster. YOu would figure Suzuki would know what they were doing on breaking in "their" bikes...
1. I would get as many mods as possible. Upgrades don't cost you anything if you get it with the bike most of the time...
2. Check gearing... If they have changed gearing and not used a yellowbox or like, it will not have accurate mileage recorded.
3. Look for drops.
4. I would lift the tank and check under the hood and under the engine. Make sure if they have worked on it, that they have done a good job and got it back together correctly.
vaportrail
Registered
"and then drain the oil and then ride it gently for the next 500 miles"
I don't care how gentle you are, the motor won't make 500 miles without oil :0
Sorry, couldn't resist. Good luck on your hunt and be safe.
Chuck
I don't care how gentle you are, the motor won't make 500 miles without oil :0
Sorry, couldn't resist. Good luck on your hunt and be safe.
Chuck
Haha, yeah sorry. You might want to add a little oil for the 500 miles
Or your could just leave it empty, dont worry the knocking of your pistons and the slapping of your valves is a good thing! lol
I've built drag racing engines since I was 12 we always just picked a big hill and did a couple of WOT passes up them to load the engine up really good and then ran them all season no problems. I definitely don’t agree with the soft break in and many others also disagree. Besides the fact that a soft break in creates less HP b/c of worse ring tolerances and is prone to blow by, wouldn't you want to know if everything was done right from the start. I think a dealer is going to be more likely to help you out when the bike spins a rod bearing off the showroom floor than in 9 months when you've added a slip-on, power commander, and K&N. At least be careful not to run it at constant RPM's for long periods of time. Bare minimum run different gears on a long trip so you aren't constantly sitting at the same RPM. This will help prevent high spots forming at the top and bottom of the cylinders. High spots that could cause ring damage when you finally decide to get on it and the rods get hot and expand more. This usually doesn't kill the engine but it will produce less compression than an engine that was properly broken in and had it's rings set in the first 20 miles.
Heres a good link for bike engines. Which as you all know are the same as car engines as far as mechanics and design. Sizes vary obviously. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I've built drag racing engines since I was 12 we always just picked a big hill and did a couple of WOT passes up them to load the engine up really good and then ran them all season no problems. I definitely don’t agree with the soft break in and many others also disagree. Besides the fact that a soft break in creates less HP b/c of worse ring tolerances and is prone to blow by, wouldn't you want to know if everything was done right from the start. I think a dealer is going to be more likely to help you out when the bike spins a rod bearing off the showroom floor than in 9 months when you've added a slip-on, power commander, and K&N. At least be careful not to run it at constant RPM's for long periods of time. Bare minimum run different gears on a long trip so you aren't constantly sitting at the same RPM. This will help prevent high spots forming at the top and bottom of the cylinders. High spots that could cause ring damage when you finally decide to get on it and the rods get hot and expand more. This usually doesn't kill the engine but it will produce less compression than an engine that was properly broken in and had it's rings set in the first 20 miles.
Heres a good link for bike engines. Which as you all know are the same as car engines as far as mechanics and design. Sizes vary obviously. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Gotta ask ... what does that mean? What would cause that? Thanks ...
Abusive wheelies. Which is abuse in general, just like missing teeth on sprockets. I've put a hard 12K on mine and it may not crank in the morning, but still running original plugs and this thing smokes everything around. I roll on the throttle, no burnouts, no wheelies on purpose anyway.
Haven't done a good peg runs lately, but those attrack to much attention. Busas scream at 180
Someone may have mentioned it, but check the pipes along the bottom for crushing or scars. Same thing.
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