throwing on a slick

[Kevin Jones]

Am I going to die? Will I shoot my eye out? I got a free MT slick that I am going to mount on a spare wheel today. I have a shinko hook up that I havent tested, stupid ass track closed last night. I will have all three on wheels and just swap around. Stealth for street (DOES NOT HOOK UP ON THE TRACK, DANGEROUS), shinko hook up (untested except for some street runs), and the slick.

Question is, is it even worth trying? If its wheelie city and strapping, launching low rpm and anything else other than going back 18" with a pro adjusted shock and clutch isnt going to prevent it, then it seems pointless. What are your experiences? I dont race classes, I am a novice. Bad traction problems prior to this clutch with a shinko stealth. 10psi in the tire and sideways the whole pass which I should have just aborted.

Gen 1, stage 1 RCC (not a perfect tune, working that issue, Dobrin set to 230hp on the dyno and walked away, since then had an ecu fail and replaced, he refuses to give me the bin file he originally put on my old one, long story, PC5 holding a decent AFR right now)
MTC 2 stage lock up (untuned)
8" back on velocity swingarm

Going 1/4 Sunday afternoon so not so worried about launch as I am 1/8th.

 

[Dennis]

I haven't run one, but friends have. They have gone away from them on a street bike. The Hookup seems to do well enough for one buddy to go 4.90's in the 1/8 no wheelie bar. The other buddy says as soon as the bike moves around you end up on the edge of the slick which is no traction compared to a rounded profile tire. Good luck, let us know how it works.

 

[Dark3]

Did you say you are using the pc5 still? What happened?

 

[Kevin Jones]

Ok, so the slick sounds like it might not be worth the trouble. A 4.9 on a hook up is sick. I cant think a slick would be that much faster.

Alan, I am afraid to autotune under WOT in boost so I plug the PC in when I run at the track which really isnt tuned but it does run rich and safe or so the logs say, although I am either not calibrating the MAP sensor right or its not going above 4lbs boost. If I could get a verified TAFR map, I would set it up in ecueditor and then bring it over to woolich, flash, and then feel better about trying to run it. I made one, I would actually like to post it here and see what people think about it. In fact I will. I just developed it off of what I read. Unreal. Even my work phone is broken to take a picture now. I will screenshot it and email it to myself. I am kind of thinking my MAP sensor is not calibrated. I simply took the 5v at atm press (which the engine wasnt running, im not sure if it changes) and put a compressor with as best I could 8 psi and read the volts. I didnt have anything more accurate to put air into that thing and measuring at WOT at 10k, I have no idea how to get that in a meter reading. A mightyvac silver with precise pressure out would have been ideal. But I may not have the tune to pull the boost right the way it is, I just dont know. I wouldnt have ever known minus what it said on the dyno months and months ago, which actually came up about 20hp short of what we wanted.

What do you guys think? Is the motor going to go off like a claymore at 80 or WOT like this?

 

[Kevin Jones]

Is there no way to make that bigger and more readable?

 

[oldgixxer]

Hey Kevin since we cant text I'll post this here.
Just a thought,gonna throw it out there and see what you think: you can rig up a simple regulator to turn the boost down a few psi,say maybe 4-5psi. Then you can slowly dial in your suspension and get it set properly as well as run the bike with less horsepower until you find a happy medium where you are able to launch and make a full pass without traction issues. Once you are 100% and dont spin,slowly increase the boost a little at a time and make adjustments accordingly to get you down the track without spinning.

Once you establish the launch and practice making full passes without aborting you can bring back the 10psi and have at it.

Figured Id throw a suggestion/idea at ya since I know it's extremely frustrating and discouraging not being able to get the bike where you want it E.T. or mph wise.

I have a $30 home made regulator on my 1000 so I can turn the boost down to 8psi for pump or to 13psi(or more)for C16.

 

[Dark3]

Not sure where you need to be for WOT AFR but it does look like that map could stand to be smoothed out a bit. I can see in one spot where your jumping from 13 to 12 in one cell. Thats gonna make it run a bit rough

 

[Dark3]

And also your tps idle transition area looks to be around 13.5. I would bring that up to 14.2 or so if you have an iap idle area of 14.7. Thats where i keep mine and the idle bounces around from 14.5 to 14.9 ish

 

[Dark3]

As you know if your scared of leaning out at WOT why dont you try cleaning your exhaust go out and run a fatter map like add 20% fuel in the wot areas manually go out blacken up the pipe just for reference, come back and take alook and dial in your tafr and then AT. Are you mainly worried that you arent setting up the proper wot tafr? Rob should have an easyish answer there. Run that fatter end of it and go from there

 

[Kevin Jones]

Sounds like a good idea, thanks Alan. time, damn need more hours in the day

 

[Stevo80]

I have guys down here running considerably quicker then 4.9's on a hook up. I wouldn't use a slick myself as it's not necessary. Prostreet bikes don't use a slick, think about that.

 

[Kevin Jones]

I was noticing that Sunday at Orlando 1/4 mile. My friend ran a 8.03 on a hookup at 10psi with a bit too much front wheel off the ground. If he is running the hook up, and every single bike at Green Cove 1/8th is running a hook up when they have +15 wb, it must work. Plus I like what Dennis said about the round tire actually having more contact area. In a physics sense, it is absolutely clear.