who all is running a slick and bar? I know we are few and far between but just wondering who is doing it. I am currently building a backhalfed bracket bike. I am just too big to heads up race so it will be a pro e/t bike. right now the motor is stock with a built tranny and a 2 stage or single stage lockup whatever it is called. plan on running 17/55 gearing 2 step, autoshift, delay box, air clutch, full out drag bike
slick and bar
- Thread starter ssober
- Start date
holeshot kid
Banned
55 REAR COG THAT TYPO? Never heard anybody run that gearing.
Im -1 front 44 rear cog think thats +4 IF u want full benifit from the bar you need replace monoshock with solid strut.(it comes with pingle bar)
Why airclutch? I run the hydraulic clutch release its same thing guys use 4 line lock brakes. THis is activated by delay box releases clutch it adjusts but i never have on mine.
WHen I get in 1st light I pull clutch in then press the big button clutch is then locked in u could pull out on lever wont move. release that button activates delay box.
THis thing I have it mounted right @ clutch slave but had 2 remove coolant overflow bottle 2 make room.I relocated it + used smaller bottle.
MPS Hydraulic Clutch Release
you would need hydraulic lines 2 install that. YOu dont need go 2 air clutch unless just want 2.
IF U KNOW ANYBODY THAT HAS LINE LOCK ON THERE BIKE THEN THEY HAVE PROB INSTALLED ONE THOSE.
Im -1 front 44 rear cog think thats +4 IF u want full benifit from the bar you need replace monoshock with solid strut.(it comes with pingle bar)
Why airclutch? I run the hydraulic clutch release its same thing guys use 4 line lock brakes. THis is activated by delay box releases clutch it adjusts but i never have on mine.
WHen I get in 1st light I pull clutch in then press the big button clutch is then locked in u could pull out on lever wont move. release that button activates delay box.
THis thing I have it mounted right @ clutch slave but had 2 remove coolant overflow bottle 2 make room.I relocated it + used smaller bottle.
MPS Hydraulic Clutch Release
you would need hydraulic lines 2 install that. YOu dont need go 2 air clutch unless just want 2.
IF U KNOW ANYBODY THAT HAS LINE LOCK ON THERE BIKE THEN THEY HAVE PROB INSTALLED ONE THOSE.
holeshot kid
Banned
I like the shinko slick you get a lot runs on it
No typo on the gear. I should be able to be close to the top of 6th when I go through the traps. I already have the mps air of hydraulic clutch on my zrx that I am currently running. I am doing a complete rigid bolt on back half and custom bars not the pingle parts or anything resembling a swingarm. I ran the pingles for a few years and they work good for occasion but the feel of a long bar that is designed for my weight and length of bike are much smoother launch. I am running rc comp wheels skinny in front and an 7x18" m/t slick in the rear. The only road use this bike will see is on the trailer.
I have been racing for about 5 years and slick and bar racing for most of it. I have run the line lock but when I get on a pro tree it won't react as fast I want so I went with the air over hydraulic.
Are you running a lockup or a stock clutch?
I have been racing for about 5 years and slick and bar racing for most of it. I have run the line lock but when I get on a pro tree it won't react as fast I want so I went with the air over hydraulic.
Are you running a lockup or a stock clutch?
Draco1340
Registered
Presumably with that gearing this is being set up for the 1/8 mile. That is a lot of gear, and a lot of time spent shifting (5 shifts at 90 milliseconds each is almost 1/2 a second) so I would wonder if you could get buy with fewer shifts and a lower gear. What is the weight of bike and rider?
Regarding the clutch, I have never known anyone to succesfully set up a 2 stage lockup. Multistage clutches are smooth and progressive, but two stage setups basicly grab at some distance out, resulting in chassis shock. A heavy duty clutch / spring setup is good for 250 HP before you need a lock up. How much power are you making?
Regarding the clutch, I have never known anyone to succesfully set up a 2 stage lockup. Multistage clutches are smooth and progressive, but two stage setups basicly grab at some distance out, resulting in chassis shock. A heavy duty clutch / spring setup is good for 250 HP before you need a lock up. How much power are you making?
I am running a single stage / 2 stage on my bike now and it is close. Motor is stock except for a murray and an airbox mod. Not sure about weight of bike and rider but I am betting over 800lbs. I don't see the advantage or the hassle of setting up a multistage on a bar bike. Most guys I race around on bar bikes go from a lockup to an all out slider and I really like being self sufficient at the track.
I think the busa and my zrx are close on high gear ratio and with a 15/55 gearing on the rex it would run 131 @ 10400, With a 17/55 the busa should be able to run 147 give or take @ 10400. The auto shift is set to turn off when I go into 6th so if I need to stretch it a little farther I will but I really don't think I will trap much over 140 if I hit 140. I don't plan on spraying, this is a bracket bike. consistency of everything. The tranny is back cut so I doubt I will have to use 90 milliseconds kill
My reasoning for the lockup is to take the initial hit off of the tire. I am button launching delay box and it shocks the tire hard without a lockup. It hits hard on the rex but not as hard as it could and I race some slick tracks and some grabby bastards. Thunder valley and Ennis are grabby Wichita and Ark City are slick, there is about 1000 rpm difference in launch rpms between tracks. I will be the first to say if I can't get the clutch lined out I will go to a multi or a slider but I have some wisdom near me and if all else fails I say I screwed up. One of the arkansas boys if dropping 1.35 60's on a single stage with no bar in a zzr1200 so I think a single can be set up properly.
I think the busa and my zrx are close on high gear ratio and with a 15/55 gearing on the rex it would run 131 @ 10400, With a 17/55 the busa should be able to run 147 give or take @ 10400. The auto shift is set to turn off when I go into 6th so if I need to stretch it a little farther I will but I really don't think I will trap much over 140 if I hit 140. I don't plan on spraying, this is a bracket bike. consistency of everything. The tranny is back cut so I doubt I will have to use 90 milliseconds kill
My reasoning for the lockup is to take the initial hit off of the tire. I am button launching delay box and it shocks the tire hard without a lockup. It hits hard on the rex but not as hard as it could and I race some slick tracks and some grabby bastards. Thunder valley and Ennis are grabby Wichita and Ark City are slick, there is about 1000 rpm difference in launch rpms between tracks. I will be the first to say if I can't get the clutch lined out I will go to a multi or a slider but I have some wisdom near me and if all else fails I say I screwed up. One of the arkansas boys if dropping 1.35 60's on a single stage with no bar in a zzr1200 so I think a single can be set up properly.
holeshot kid
Banned
Just stock clutch.
dragonbusa
Registered
I"ve been running a bar and slick for three years. thats alot of gear your talking. I"m running 16/47 I"m in 4th in the 1/8. 5.98/115 with 1.38-1.39 60s It dont stay in first long enuff to blink twice! All I can say is try it, sprockets are cheap, but I bet your gonna run out of gear in the 1/4ml
dragonbusa
Registered
looks way cool!
S-R Racing
Registered
With that set-up I think you'll find 9.70's pretty easy, like all day long. Nice bullet,hope you have a safe & fast season.
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Ft Campbell Busa
Registered
Why the extensions with a bar?
holeshot kid
Banned
Thats cool looking tailpiece.
I
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dragonbusa
Registered
BINGO! yes I tryed it with stock wheel base. slams the bar down hard and unloads the tire. With this set up I can leave at 8-9000 rpm on the two step and dump the clutch.
My wheelbase it close to 12 over and I am still going to run a bar. It should leave very soft. I don't like to leave above 8000, prefer 5500-6000. It can't be good on parts leaving high so I put in the lockup to take some of the hit and it slips the clutch a little out of the hole. The slick acts as a cushion and absorbs shock of the clutch hit also. Look pics of a chain when launching. I bet it gets tight.
dragonbusa
Registered
yes, it is hard on parts. but it a blast! racing is hard on parts but hey that dont stop nobody
busafastone
Registered
what if I am running a full out street bike stock wheel base. 30hp nos and air shifter. do not want to stretch. Want to take wheelie bars off and run it back on the street. Go to the track ever few months. that is why I want to leave it street when not at the track
I'm running 15-56 gearing. With the flat m/t slick it puts me through the 1/8 in the top of 4th. Mps release, stock clutch, heavy springs, stock motor with sidewinder and a good tune. Boost by smith auto shift and leaving off the 2 step at 4500rpm. Runs deadly consistent 5.80 with 1.30 60ft. It took me most of the year to get the gearing dialed in. This is just what worked for me. With the tall tire and less gear it was bogging out of the hole.
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