Rideability...clutch options

[Busacure]

I'm trying to find a fix to a problem I'm having. My problem is a low speed jerk in the drive train especially during around town driving. Making a calm 90 degree turn when I accelerate from the initial deceleration to enter the turn, the bike jerks from the throttle transition. I've searched and searched and come to the common conclusion that the back torque limiter introduces this excessive play. Instead of a constant solid engine/transmission engagement the "slipper clutch" creates a small gap of positive engagement. Deceleration loads one side of the BTL and acceleration loads the other side. The gap, slip, play...whatever you call it is what causes the the bike to jump, jerk, or the common clunk when the load goes from the decel side to the accel side and loads the drive train "suddenly".
So what I would like from the .org is some feedback confirming or dismantling my above theory, suggestions on aftermarket remedies, and anyone who has the same problem. I'm looking at the brocks clutch mod...but don't know which of the two is right for me the everyday rider. I also was looking at the clutch cushion kit as well. I don't want to burn up 5 Benjamins on the wrong application. lease: lease:

 

[freponyryd]

Not too sure about that, but I took the selection piece out of the clutch and dremeled the number 4 side down a little so it grabs in the middle of the clutch throw. Really helped with my left hand because I had carpal tunnel surgery a few years ago. might help with your problem as well.

 

[jetsetter]

Are you sure the chain is properly adjusted? Also too much play in the throttle cables can cause the bike to be jerky.

 

[TruWrecks]

No problem here. Must not be too common.

 

[B@DA$$08BUS@]

Are you a newer busa rider?

 

[rusheriv]

Sounds like you're decelerating through to the apex then accelerating out of the turn and getting some drivetrain lash. You need to decel prior to turn, maintenance throttle through the turn and accelerate out of the turn.

 

[B@DA$$08BUS@]

Sounds like you're decelerating through to the apex then accelerating out of the turn and getting some drivetrain lash. You need to decel prior to turn, maintenance throttle through the turn and accelerate out of the turn.

Thats the point I was gonna try and get to after he answered my question? I didnt want to just come out ant tell someone how to drive because I am not an ace pilot myself. Thanks man for taking the heat round for me

 

[Got-Busa?]

Not questioning your ridding but...

I'd recommend the Brock's clutch mod. You can install the cushion if you want but some feel it's not needed on the Gen-II. I don't use one but then again I don't live on the 1/4-mile drag strip...

Also, what mods on the bike...? If you've got a pipe and no PC/tuner IMO that is your biggest problem. The people claiming you don't need a PC haven't ridden one with a proper tune. A bad tune or NO tune will give you a similar jerky feeling with on/off throttle transitions...

 

[Busacure]

B@D yes I is.
rush yes I is.
Got Thanks for input but I insist on firsthand exp. with products. bike is bone stock
Jet I agree.
I think I got it. Awhile back I adjusted the suspension to tighten it up and raise the rear up 2 turns along with some mild compression adjustments. I did adjust the chain right after changing the ride height and all. I had previously adjusted the throttle play to get rid of the dead spot. The chain setting settled in and added some slack. I now have adjusted the chain a little tighter than factory spec. That really helped, there is still a little driveline lash but its now instantaneous and very predictable...when I expect it. I will heed to the pointer you gave me Rush. This bike is the heaviest sportbike I have ever owned. It carries alot of momentum and is insanely powerful. Thanks all. Hope this helps another noob down the line.

 

[iride]

Might want to check the sprocket dampners, The rubber things the back of the sprocket fits into,, Mine are bad at 3000 miles, The sprocket carrier should fit very tight, I ordered a set of pretty red ones from.
Schnitz Motorsports, Inc
Mike

 

[Busacure]

Might want to check the sprocket dampners, The rubber things the back of the sprocket fits into,, Mine are bad at 3000 miles, The sprocket carrier should fit very tight, I ordered a set of pretty red ones from.
Schnitz Motorsports, Inc
Mike

You mean these Cush Drive Damper, Suzuki Hayabusa   Schnitz Motorsports Inc
I would guess there would be some kind of play between the rear sprocket and the rim if it where going bad, like old mushy engine mounts. Mine seem tight. How did you know yours where bad?

 

[iride]

The bike will be jerky with shifting, like in the lower gears,,
The best way to tell is to take the rear wheel off, If the sprocket carrier falls out and is easy to put back in its wore out,,, I had to replace the dampers on my GSXR 1000 at about 6 thousand miles, Just replaced the ones on my DL 1000 with 14 thousand miles, Made a BIG difference on both bikes...
Seen the ones SCHNITZ makes for the Busa and thought I would try them out. Should be better than stock....
I had to use WD40 to get the sprocket Carrier back in the new dampers on my GSXR 1000,,,
It should be nice and tight,,,,
Mike

You mean these Cush Drive Damper, Suzuki Hayabusa * Schnitz Motorsports Inc
I would guess there would be some kind of play between the rear sprocket and the rim if it where going bad, like old mushy engine mounts. Mine seem tight. How did you know yours where bad?

 

[Busacure]

Still trying to chase down some answers. Found this. Look at the play between the dogs. This is from a kawi bike but I would assume that it is a common design. I think i read some where that 1-3 gears on the busa are under cut from factory so that would add to the clunk affect by giving more space between dog cogs.
While stopped with bike in first gear and clutch pulled in, push the bike forward with feet about 1-2' and let out clutch lever slowly till the clutch is just beginning to engage and it clunks, pull clutch in again and move the bike another 1-2' and do the same...clunk. It will not clunk again unless you move forward with feet.
My 2003 SV 1000 did not clunk and it had a BTL clutch as well. I do not think the trans was under cut though from the factory. I feel I have narrowed it down to the dog cogs in gears 1-3 being under cut. Opinion's?

 

[Billyroe]

wondering if you ever fixed this problem, dealing with issue at the moment about to buy the clutch mod get back to me if youre still on the site. Thanks