Problem Tracing why the fuel pump not priming

busanostra

Registered
I have a golf kart project and with 1st gen busa engine. I was trying to trace why I don't hear the
fuel pump priming when I turn the ignition on. I checked everything but ... no cigar.
1. I put a delete on the tip over sensor.
2. I eliminated the (shorted) the side stand switch.
3. I replaced the fuel pump relay (the large relay and the small relay).
4. I directed the fuel pump in the battery and it works.
5. I put the gear in neutral
6. I pressed the clutch switch before starting the engine (engine cranks no problem).

NONE OF THESE WORKS
Question, If your fuel tank is empty, will the fuel pump still prime?
Can you think of something that I need to look into?

Thank you folks!
 
Oh, I checked all the fuses and all are good.
I put multiple ground to the chassis and the engine.
Is there an immobilizer that I need to know?
 
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if the ignition switch (key switch) isn't factory, that will cause it. there is a resistor in the switch that the ecu uses as an anti-theft
I soldered 100k resistor (black/white wire)in the key harness side, still no cigar.

I can only crank the engine if I ground the Y/B in the pump relay.

I tested my camshaft position sensor and it's not in the spec. I bought a new one and waiting to arrive.
Maybe that's my problem, 'cause I don't have injector pulse and sparkplug spark either.
I will let u know when I get it.
Thank u!

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But I don't remember having white wire.

Shall I follow your pinning even I have no white wire?
its just wire i used, i remove the 2 center wires from the ignition switch wiring, not needed when using an aftermarket ignition switch


at least checking this aftermarket switch, those 2 wires do get connected when turning the key to the on position, so what you did should actually work.

rereading your post, i see the issue, 100 Ohm, not 100,000 ohms is what you want.
 
its just wire i used, i remove the 2 center wires from the ignition switch wiring, not needed when using an aftermarket ignition switch


at least checking this aftermarket switch, those 2 wires do get connected when turning the key to the on position, so what you did should actually work.

rereading your post, i see the issue, 100 Ohm, not 100,000 ohms is what you want.
This is the resistor I used 1/2 100K (pic)
and the two wires I need to be soldered together with the resistor is B/W and PINK/BLACK stripe, right?
(IT looks red but it's pink)

Thank you so much

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