Pistons vs Head gasket spacer

Dscahill

Registered
Well Like the title says, I am nearly ready to put my 01 away for the winter months and strap on a turbo, but I haven't really been able to wrap my mind around the reason that one would install a spacer plate opposed to turbo pistons when building a boosted bike?!? Do they achieve the same thing only different ways? Whats the drawback to the spacer?

I'd rather only tear the motor down once so I'd like to get this correct the first time around.

Thanks!

-D
 
Adding a spacer to a stock motor raises the head, and by doing so lowers the compression. Being as you can make 330hp on a stock bottom end its a cheaper alternative to building the engine and still make some decent power.

Most aftermarket Pistons require a base spacer because the ring lands are thicker. Doing so raises the face of the piston making it taller. So to compensate you raise the head to get your clearances back in check. This is for gen 1 bikes.

Gen 2 bikes don't require a base spacer for most turbo Pistons because the geometry is a little different on those Pistons to make up for the 2mm of extra stroke from the crank.

Why not use a thick head gasket? Glad you asked. The thicker the head gasket, the more prone they are to move around from combustion pressure. The more surface area you expose to combustion pressures, the easier it is to move and blow out head gaskets.

We're lucky suzuki uses a "modular" engine where the cylinders are separate from the upper case unlike a lot of the kawis. Those you're forced to use thicker head gaskets depending on the combination to keep your clearances. Also put you in a bind with stroker cranks with shorter rods. Since they don't have the luxury of moving deck height around they have to deal with extreme rod angles which wear bearing quicker, and tend to break rods, or spin bearings if you're lucky.
 
That has always been one of the things about this community that has baffled me. Unlike other racing subsets, take my Dad's GN for instance. He has a radical car and we both know mechanically just about anything but when it comes to boost, we dont know much at all. So we research. The GN community is super super helpful. They share tons of information, Brett is one of them. This community it seems at times doesnt want to give up knowledge. I understand that for some it is business, repetitive business requires holding on to stuff. Walter's builder who is super cool told me there are things he wont share so I know it means something to have put in the blood, sweat and tears to learn stuff the hard way. It is however frustrating to the novice at this stuff to be left searching. We arent rich and we cant afford to make costly mistakes. Or maybe the search is the important part. But I truly thank you Rob and anyone who is willing to share such information. There are no books out there on how to hot rod your busa motor. No other way to learn than to ask. Those that squander knowledge, well, it is your right. But, I spend a lot of money on this stuff. Your information can stay with you and I will pay Rob and those who I remember when I need stuff.
 
Adding a spacer to a stock motor raises the head, and by doing so lowers the compression. Being as you can make 330hp on a stock bottom end its a cheaper alternative to building the engine and still make some decent power.

Most aftermarket Pistons require a base spacer because the ring lands are thicker. Doing so raises the face of the piston making it taller. So to compensate you raise the head to get your clearances back in check. This is for gen 1 bikes.

Gen 2 bikes don't require a base spacer for most turbo Pistons because the geometry is a little different on those Pistons to make up for the 2mm of extra stroke from the crank.

Why not use a thick head gasket? Glad you asked. The thicker the head gasket, the more prone they are to move around from combustion pressure. The more surface area you expose to combustion pressures, the easier it is to move and blow out head gaskets.

We're lucky suzuki uses a "modular" engine where the cylinders are separate from the upper case unlike a lot of the kawis. Those you're forced to use thicker head gaskets depending on the combination to keep your clearances. Also put you in a bind with stroker cranks with shorter rods. Since they don't have the luxury of moving deck height around they have to deal with extreme rod angles which wear bearing quicker, and tend to break rods, or spin bearings if you're lucky.

So long story short, just do it right build the motor with Rods/pistons and use the spacer for clearances and avoid the floating Headgasket?

-D
 
yes exactly! trus me ull wanna go faster so just build it right the first time. pistons just aren't that expensive imo. rods are about a $1000 or so. I wud go with CP-Carrillo Pistons and Rods.

I had my pistons coated from Swain and opted for the HD rods, was only a couple hundred bucks extra to coat the pistons. its not like a car where u need 8 pistons and 8 of them need coating.

300 hp sounds like a LOT and it is no doubt compared to stock or even a big bore kit makn 240 hp but u will adjust to that power over time and wanna turn it up. I was at 335 hp last year and it was fukn fast not doubt. never lost a roll race on the street with a bike or a car but I was longing for more and decided to upgrade cause those TT Lambos out in Long Island (Where all the money is) are no joke lol.

and Rob is very knowledgable and helpful so listen to wat he suggests.

So long story short, just do it right build the motor with Rods/pistons and use the spacer for clearances and avoid the floating Headgasket?

-D
 
I hadn't considered the piston coating. But like Brett and Rob, I am doing main studs, cyl studs so you can get extra ft lbs of torque too. They aren't that expensive insurance compared to some other stuff. I am getting a valve job and hd springs installed and shimmed. No porting. Just basically what you would do with a typical engine rebuild except we are rebuilding with bad ass ****. And the spacer requires adj cam sprox which need pressed on by machine shop anyway, and might as well go with a new cam chain while you are there. He is going to do my head for $250 and degree the cams for $200 ($150 but I insisted he teach me).
 
I appreciate the props guy, I do my best!

Long run if you just do a spacer to run a little over 300hp it's gonna cost you more. But I understand budgets, so I put it out there as an option to squeeze a little extra power out of it.

I'm sure on my next Busa it will just be a spacer motor. As I'm getting older (just turned 30, look out) im realizing much over 330 and I'm tapping out. I love hard acceleration but must doing mach 3 is a tad scary. He'll look at this video from tonight. 4th gear doesn't last long at all.

http://youtu.be/yMY4hGzM8HQ
 
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