Oil pressure light

Frank, you are forgetting that the wire connection to the oil pressure switch is GROUNDING the circuit when the pressure is below 4 psi, and causing the red light to come on.
As pressure rises above 4psi the the circuit becomes open, and the grounding is lost, and the light goes out.
Therefore a loose wire or a disconnected wire will not cause flickering or permanently illuminated red lamp on the dash.

The only two possible causes are, . . .
1) low oil pressure (below 4psi)
or 2) a faulty pressure switch.
Before diving in to remove the oil pan and visually checking screen etc (oh and don't forget the oil pressure relief/bypass valve needs chrecking to see if it's jammed in the open position) just check the oil pressure at the port by removing the bung and fitting a test gauge. . . or fit another switch you know is in good working order.
If the pressure is actually low (which in this case I doubt and believe the switch is at fault) then it will be time to remove the pan and run thru all the checks.
Well was not the pickup screen in working condition cleaned with water and degreser several times nothing blocking. Looks like time to order bypass valve thanks Kiwi for info.
 
Well was not the pickup screen in working condition cleaned with water and degreser several times nothing blocking. Looks like time to order bypass valve thanks Kiwi for info.
It has begun.

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So let us keep up. You did or did not change the sending unit out before tearing into engine?
No didn't change sending unit. Had to remove oil pan anyway to put in a baffel I ordered. Honestly not sure where sending unit is located but looking at manual. Possible to have a clogged filter or oil pump problem going out to change filter now but think the pressure relief valve is going to be stuck when I check it.
 
…..have you put a gauge on it to se what the actual pressure is???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
No I suck don't own one yet. It is the logical thing but am on an upgrade/ replace parts that could possibly be a problem now or in near future kick.
 
…..have you put a gauge on it to se what the actual pressure is???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Pressure relief valve does move but requires a fair bit of force; not sure if normal. Will compare with new one. I wanted to do this & gear since last year. Also moving the coolant temp switch to the right side.
 
pressure valve is the HIGHEST pressure allowed
it would have to be stuck open to cause low pressure
Never actually heard of it happening without debris
and only once at that after reassembly from a melt down
Doesn't Pep boys or Autozone lend tools like that free?
 
pressure valve is the HIGHEST pressure allowed
it would have to be stuck open to cause low pressure
Never actually heard of it happening without debris
and only once at that after reassembly from a melt down
Doesn't Pep boys or Autozone lend tools like that free?
Yeah not the valve. Great idea will check Advanced & Autozone. At least I will know the pressure value for certain.
 
Did you find anything taking your oil pan off I’m doing mine tomorrow I have everything ready to go just ran out of steam today this heat is rough, changed my sending unit, didn’t make a difference

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@Nastee

hi

i saw at your pics the plug in the radiator - but no "T" for the feeler yet.
how did you solve the problem?
did you build yourself a "T" with m18x1.5 for the feeler / switch?
or
did you somehow integrate the temperature sensor in the cylinder head´s rear into a new circuit (for the fan)?
if yes, with which circuit?
 
@Nastee

hi

i saw at your pics the plug in the radiator - but no "T" for the feeler yet.
how did you solve the problem?
did you build yourself a "T" with m18x1.5 for the feeler / switch?
or
did you somehow integrate the temperature sensor in the cylinder head´s rear into a new circuit (for the fan)?
if yes, with which circuit?
Went with T kit just waiting for proper clamps to arrive before installing. Seems no local shops carry silicone clamps that small. Had to order online but picking the right size took a bit since most are listed incorrectly. They should come on Thursday but I already made a simple harness since I run the 180 degree sensor. Priority is to put the new oil pump gear in first on Wednesday. Simple peace of mind upgrades the bike has been rock solid for so long I have taken it for granted; overlooking parts that eventually wear out for go fast parts.
 
Did you find anything taking your oil pan off I’m doing mine tomorrow I have everything ready to go just ran out of steam today this heat is rough, changed my sending unit, didn’t make a difference

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No I didn't find any issues besides the water pump seals which have been replaced. What are you referring to when you say sending unit? Oil pressure switch or something else just to be on same page. Oh & your bike looks sinister.
 
…..have you put a gauge on it to se what the actual pressure is???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Bought the guage last week.
 
Did you find anything taking your oil pan off I’m doing mine tomorrow I have everything ready to go just ran out of steam today this heat is rough, changed my sending unit, didn’t make a difference

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Well found the problem & sometimes it is the simplest of things. I pinched the ground wire with the clutch cover somehow the last time changing the clutch! New section of wire problem solved. No oil light lit now.

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@Nastee

hi

i saw at your pics the plug in the radiator - but no "T" for the feeler yet.
how did you solve the problem?
did you build yourself a "T" with m18x1.5 for the feeler / switch?
or
did you somehow integrate the temperature sensor in the cylinder head´s rear into a new circuit (for the fan)?
if yes, with which circuit?
Bike is back together as of today. Maybe this info will help others in the future.

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