Oil Filters

Bergster

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Ok Busa people, I've done some crazy in depth research on oil and oil filters for the past few weeks and I think I've come to a wise conclusion.

I looked hi and low for the perfect oil and oil filter for my Busa. I've seen many posts on filters and oil so I went deep. There are many oils and oil filters to choose from and everyone wants to know which one to get.

Most motorcycle engines (Busa) are Hi flow and Hi pressure oiling systems. They require large amounts of oil to keep them cool and lubricated with the high RPM's.

Everyone wants the best filtration they can get. The better the filtration the less the flow (thats a fact). Bikes need FLOW. So there has to be a compromise.

I looked at many oil filter research sites (over and over) and came up with Purolater (ML16818) as being the better of all evils and the oem filter being #2 (Suzuki filter) if you couldn't find a Purolater.

I've seen a few posts on Hayabusa.org (the best bike forum) that some of the people were using the Purolater PureOne PH14610 as there filter of choice. The Purolater PureOne is rated #1 in filtering oil. I took a look at them because it was a Purolater and found out that the filter had 20x1.5 threads. The Hayabusa has 20x1 threads as most Suzuki's do. (don't know how those people are doing that without messing there threads up). The bypass valve was close to the same pressure and the filter was about the same size but it was a longer filter with more media, so maybe I could change the threads on the bike to make the Purolater PureOne PH14610 work. I was on the verge of doing this and decided to call Purolater and see if they made a PureOne filter with the 20x1 threads with a size that was close so I wouldn't have to change the threads on my bike to make it work.

I talked to a Rep. today and he said that Purolater DOES NOT and WILL NOT make a motorcycle oil filter with the PureOne media because, motorcycle engines require high flow and high pressure. The media in the PureOne filter wouldn't flow enough oil with its size to take care of a motorcycle engine, and with the oil pressure of a motorcycle engine it would be running through the bypass valve most of the time (no filtering). No filtering is a bad thing. It would be better to run the cheapest, lowest grade P.O.S. filter you could find, rather than run a PureOne (the greatest automotive filter made).

In conclusion with the many hours of research I choose the Purolater ML16818 as first choice and OEM Suzuki as #2. Never ever ever ever put the Fram PH6018 on your motorcycle if you even like it. Did a little work on that one too.

As far as oil goes.....
If you want a standard oil: Rotella 15w40 or Castroil GTX 10w40.
Synthetic: Rotella 5w40 or Mobil 5w40.

I know other guys are pushing other oils here and they are good. When it comes to breaking the oil down, the ones listed fared the best.

I'd go more into the oil but I'm beat. If you would like to talk to me about the filter thing, feel free to P.M. me.

I just felt like I needed to pull my weight with this board. I've gotten so much from it.
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I think you're probably right about the filters, but I'm sure there willl be others who will have other opinions.
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As to the oil there are definitely other opinions out there. Probably any oil is OK as long as you change it and the filter regularly. For a widely available, reasonably priced synthetic the Mobil 15W50 looks good for warm weather. And of course for cool weather a lighter weight such as a 5 or 10W40.

My own preference runs towards a ester based synthetic. I'll be using Maxima this spring as their additive package seems very robust. And next winter I've already got some Silkolene to try.

Though I've read that once you find a brand you like stick with it as it takes 2-3 oil changes to be able to notice any improvement.

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Hello, I know that when everyone gets on the oil topic it gets confusing. First off, Amsoil synthetics are simply the best thing you can put in your engine. Yes, I'm a dealer. The proof, my cummins dodge always ran rotella with summertime engine oil temps at 220 degrees. I switched to amsoil at 120,000 miles and the next day in the same temperature the truck ran 20 degrees cooler with the amsoil. Now back to motorcycles. I have had a 97' gsxr-750 and a 00' TL1000R and always have used amsoil. This was when it was 4-5 dollars a quart. Both the TL and gixxer had over 25,000 miles when I sold them and they ran just like they did when I got them. Now the oil has went up significantly since then. My busa's first oil change was on the suzuki's oil. Now after doing some research I am using diesel oil in my busa made by Castrol, called Tection Extra 15w-40. You can get it at advanced auto parts on sale for $5 a gallon, wow. Back to amsoil, although it is better, my experience with it is that it only last the 3,000 miles that regular oil last in these bikes. After the 3K mark it becomes difficult to shift then I drain it. So I'm not getting anymore service out of it than other oils. I ride a lot and oil changes are frequent, so it gets expensive. I use the Castrol 15w-40 for 1,500 miles and I drain it, leave the filter on, and refill with about 3.5 quarts. The next 1,500 do this again but change the filter also. I use hiflo-filtro HF-138 that is $6.25 each. Now, why the diesel oil in my busa. Diesel engine oils do not contain all the friction modifiers that are found in car oils and do great along with our wet clutches. They also contain more zinc and phosphorus levels like real motorcycle oil than automotive oils. If you are familiar with diesel engines, they have gear driven timing, which means they also have a lot of gears inside the engine beating on the oil. Motorcycle transmissions is the downfall to oils. The gears and high reving shear the viscosity of the oil, besides higher temperatures, this is the only difference between auto and motorcycle oils. Everyone else is also correct about the car oils slipping your clutch. Any oil that is 5w-30 or 10w-30, is labeled as a energy conserving oil that contains a lot of friction modifers to improve gas mileage in your car, this is killer for our clutch. DO NOT USE THESE!!! Your can however use any thing 5w-40 and up. Use the 40 weight all year long or if you live in a hot place you can use 50 weight in the hot months but not the winter. I use the diesel oils because their formulation closely matchs that of motorcycle specific oils a lot closer that car oils, synthetic or not. If you want synthetic use a syn. diesel oil like Mobil 1 Delvac or amsoil both in 15w-40. If you need any more help just get at me, and yes I research oil a lot, its my thing!
 
all I know is that synthetic oil burns at higher temp and my bike likes suzuki oem oil and filter. end of the story for me. My bike did NOT like motul full synthetic AT ALL. Started clickly clacking in the valves and alot more vibration straight up from 4500 rpm all the way to 8000rpm.

Just like someone on this board said, he has yet to hear someone claim premature engine failure due to low quality of oil.
 
I've spoke to two bike mechanics from two different shops. Niether one said that syn's were bad, but both said that they see premature clutch wear. when i asked them what oil did they prefer. They both asked what came with it and said stick with that. One is a mechanic for the NOPD for 25 years, so he sees many bikes, the other was from a honda dealer where I did not purchase my bike. I would say these guys probably do not analyze the oil, but see alot of what actually happens on the inside. I have used syn's years ago, but went back to convential oil, due to not seeing it lasting any longer. With this bike I will probably stick with the oem suzuki oil & filter . The factory can not be that far off & the bike runs fine.
 
Been unsing Rotella T 5w40 synth in all my vehicles for a couple years. Almost always looks good when draining it, so I use it again to lube my chainsaw chain.
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I run it in:

2004 Suzuki Z400 (quad)
2004 Honda Rincon (quad)
Cub Cadet Mower
Pressure washer
2004 Nissan Titan (Hemi eater!
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2004 Nissan Murano
and finally just put it in my 2004 Busa LE... before storage
I also used it in my FZ1 before I sold it, and my Toyota Tundra before that was sold.

When I used other oils.. it would be like coffee when I drained it... not Rotella... it is great! And Amsoil reps even admit that (at least the ones I've talked with). Delvac is also a good oil.
 
If it works stick with it! I have been running the Castrol Tection Extra 15w40 for about 2,000 miles now and I love it. No metal on drain plug magnet. Smooth shifts and low noise. And the best part it is $5 bucks a gallon not a quart.:)
 
oem filter that good huh? I guess those japanesse engineers were on to something...
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I use oem filter and oem oil and my busa purrrrrrs like a kittie. I tried auto synthetic, motul blend, motul synthetic . my kittie don't like it, and that's the end of story.
 
This is my first post here and I wanted to really contribute. Oil is usually hotly debated but I finally found lab tests on motocycle oils! Here they are:

For years I have been reading all the ads and claims surrounding different motorcycle oils and prayed that someone would test them all out. Knowing that magazines accept advertising dollars for their survival, I also knew that a magazine would not do anything to cheese anyone off...In the October '03 issue of Sport Rider my prayers were answered in the form of an article entitled Oils Well That Ends Well and it included (among other things) Laboratory and Dyno Analysis. I brought the article to my service manager at an auto dealership (he is an avid racer on a Buell) and he promptly lost it. The excitement I had about it and the irony was that the best oil was Mobil 1's AUTOMOTIVE oil. I found it ironic that their automotive oil outperformed in all parameters their own oil designated for motorcycles. My problem is I am anticipating buying a new Busa and previewed this article with service managers in two stores and both said regarding the Mobil 1 that if something went wrong they (the manufacturer) would not stand by the warranty.

I have heard it all, that the oil will get beat up more in the trans of a Busa (true) and yet the Mobil 1 really did out perform every oil extant. The author sort of back pedaled at the end and said "I cannot tell you what to do." The graphs for the tests were pretty conclusive.

I had forgotten in what magazine the article/test originally appeared or when so I could not (until yesterday) locate it. I finally found it and it is presently reproduced again on the Sport Rider site. The viscosity test is where the Mobil 1 Automotive really out did the others and it is the most difficult test..

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0310_oil/

I would really appreciate any and all advice regarding voiding my warranty and knowing if any of you Busa owners are also using Mobil 1 Automotive...

Lastly I have read almost all of the recommendations for insurance companies and have not had good results. I am 56 years old with no tickets and no accidents in an automobile in over 5 years. I was licensed for one year on a motocycle in New York. Please refer me to full coverage honorable companies that insure in Southern California.

Please forgive what might be considered information you guys already know and what is probably obsessive reading teacher syndrome but when I saw the charts in the article I thought "they got to be kidding, they are soooo small who can read 'em." Turns out they are ALL POP-UPS! I tried to copy and paste into my original post the chart on viscosity (the one where the Mobil 1 is the winner) but it would not take...just thought everyone should know the charts are pop-ups in case you (as I did) get initially discouraged when you see them in the article. Just click on the chart you want to read (and turn off your Pop-Up Blocker-natch)

No one has addressed the warnings (plural) that I received from the 2 service managers telling me that despite the Mobil 1 Automotive oil seemingly and clearly being superior to all the others tested in every possible way that the manufacturers will not honor the warranty of the bikes should I use it and should there be (God forbid) an engine failure...is this a scare tactic or is it true?

I am not being a nervous Nell here. I had a '96 Chevy Camaro 5.7 SS 6 speed (with the same size vette wheels and tire package) that I never raced and never had over 85 mph and at 39,000 miles the piston began "chattering" which turns out meant "the engine blew!" Despite the fact that the engine was 3,000 miles out of warranty the service manager knew that I religiously changed the oil and filter every 3,000 miles and did not race the car and both authorized and ordered a new engine shipped from Detroit at NO COST to me! I was VERY lucky as out of pocket it would have been about $5,000 including labor. When I asked "how/why can something like that happen?" he replied, "they (meaning the engines) are made by humans." At the time I didn't think it was a very good answer since there was an article how the very same engine was run non stop (except for oil changes) in a car for 24 hours maintaining a speed close to 170 the entire time and here it blows up..

My long-winded point being things happen and would like to know how supportive Suzuki would be? I saw a post where an owner put R&G sliders on his Hayabusa for protection in the event of a tip over and Suzuki said that because the bike had these sliders on the bike it meant he was racing it and would not honor a warranty issue! This kind of stuff is scary to read and see!

Here are some replies I got elsewhere to the LAW:
From motorman4life...
I don't have the case-law handy, but I know there were some class action suits relating to this years ago. It was the opinion of the court that so long as you could prove the 3rd party product met the specs of the manufacturers product, that they had to honor it. The ONLY EXCEPTION was if the products were provided FREE to the customer by the dealer or manufacturer or as part of a FREE maintenance or service that was provided for the term of the warranty.

This is why some mfgs. include the oil/fluids as part of free service for the term of the warranty. Others have dropped their demands and just suggest you use their products. They are also better about communicating the specs on their products and provide warnings as necessary to avoid problems.

Since these consumer protection lawsuits, it has been common knowledge that if a mfgr demands you use their fluids as a condition of warranty, they must provide them free of charge for the term of the warranty.

I believe this all came about over a radiator leak problem and people using non-Honda radiator fluid that unexpectedly caused corrosion to a component in their bikes. Honda did not tell anyone about the problem or what specific type to use (ie. a WARNING against fluids that did not have a specific pH level, etc..), they just said they would not honor the warranty if non-Honda fluids were used. They lost.

If a dealer is trying to pull that one now, I'd hammer them on it. You can bet the corporate office knows better. Search for the case law and raise a stink!

Let us know how it goes.

from dopesick VFR...
In short words. NO. Provided you use the same "spec" oil as the manufacturer uses or certifies for use.

The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act is the federal law that governs consumer product warranties:
 

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Nice first post. It looks like you will be in competition with me on the long posts!
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I don’t remember what the previous owner had in my bike but when I changed it to Mobil 1 MX4T the shifting did improve. It may have been in my head but it feels like the performance is up slightly. I have been running Mobil 1 products almost exclusively since 1993 in all of my vehicles. I have had numerous samples analyzed and have always liked the results. I did swap my truck out from Delvac 1 to Royal purple recently. After about 3000 miles I could see I made a mistake. Back to the Delvac 1 and you could hear the difference. Shear is a problem in motorcycles, and Mobil 1 handles it quite well. If you want to really read quite a bit of info, check out the forums on “Bob is the oil guyâ€￾ Link


Ohhhh... And Welcome!
 
PureOne is what I use on the mustang,65-70lbs at idle,never had a problem.On the busa: OEM filter and Mobile 1 synthetic 15/50 and 20/50 depending on the time of the year.:)
 
The subject of oil filters was hashed over on another thread a few months ago. At that time, I called Purolator to ask if the commonly available automobile filter a lot of Hayabusa owners use (PL14610?) was a good choice. He said not at all because it was not designed for the spikes in pressure and high RPM at which motorcycles operate. In fact, he told me that he would use ANY manufacturer's motorcycle filter before he would use his own company's automobile filter on a motorcycle. That certainly says a lot.

If you want to use a Purolator motorcycle filter on your Busa (and it seems to be a good choice), Pep Boys stocks them.

Ed
 
Details for the ML16818 are:

Thread: 20mm x 1.0
Burst: 310 psi
Center Tube collapse: 240 psi
Micron Rating: 20
Single Pass Efficiency: 93.6%
Relief Valve opening pressure: 9-11 psi
Anti Drainback valve material: nitrile rubber
Media material: cellulose

I won't use a filter with a silicone anti-drain back valve due to the ester content in the engine oil's' I use
 
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