Oil Filter
- Thread starter uncle
- Start date
Are you sure it is the oil filter?
Also, you said you changed the oil, how tight did you put the filter on and did you run oil along the gasket?
Have you tried to tighten it yet?
What Shawn recommended...I'd start there first, then move to replacing the filter and check for leaks if those first options don't pan out...
Good luck! And are you certain it's not oil that dripped on the pipes when you removed the old filter? If you don't cover 'em, oil gets on there and does drip for a bit before it burns off...
Good luck! And are you certain it's not oil that dripped on the pipes when you removed the old filter? If you don't cover 'em, oil gets on there and does drip for a bit before it burns off...
uncle
Registered
I tried t tighten it but only by hand NOT by tool. I know it's not oil from the change. Here's what happened...I started it this morning to warm it up, got on to leave and smelt oil burning, check it out saw what it was, took right side faring off, could see that it was coming from oil filter (FRAM, I know I should have gone with something better), cleaned it off then headed out. got off freeway and noticed little smoke, checked again and sure enough it was back again.
I definetly tighten mine with the tool. I don't think you can get it tight enough with just your hand.
If you follow instructions in manual you are supposed to screw it on until it touches, then it is two full turns thereafter and she is real snug after those 2 full turns if you ask me and there is no way I could have done it with my hand.
At the very least I would snug it up again and see if that cures the problem; make sure yo wipe all excess so you can tell if its still leaking.
Cloud
I also use the suzuki oil filter. You will not be able to get the filter tight enough by hand. You can get a filter wrench that fits on the end of the filter at most suzuki dealers for about $8. Do you have stock exhaust or aftermarket headers that have a clearence issue with the filter? You may also check to make sure the o ring from the old filter was not left on the engine mating surface for the filter. I have seen that happen before. Also as was posted up, did you lubricate the new oil filter o ring before installing the filter? This is a must to assure the seal of the filter. Hope this helps!
Go with the OEM filter! Getting rid of the fram filter is reason enough to change. Also if you go to the dealer to get the filter also pick up an oil filter wrench while you are there. About $5 for the drag specialties brand. Part #17070. Works like a charm!
I've used the zuki filters for every change. I hand tighten mine and have never had an issue. Have read about the cheaper purolator filters and plan on trying them with full synthetic once my warranty is up in September.
It could be a filter issue or a less than clean mating surface. I'd remove the fram and change to zuki or purolator and make sure that mating surface was clean. Always use oil on filter gasket material before installing.
Good Luck
It could be a filter issue or a less than clean mating surface. I'd remove the fram and change to zuki or purolator and make sure that mating surface was clean. Always use oil on filter gasket material before installing.
Good Luck
bigoltool
Registered
I am running the Purolator filter now. Exactly as everyone stated above you cannot get the filter tight enough by hand. The $5 wrench is money well spent. But for removal I dont even bother! I have a set of oil filter pliers that work awesome for filter removal. They carve up the case a little bit so I wouldn't use em to install.
Similar to these.
http://www.brandsplace.com/0246-vimv246.html
Similar to these.
http://www.brandsplace.com/0246-vimv246.html
Kewl I edited a quote, WTF
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