oil drain pan/plug issues

[babuski]

okay boys and girls....last year I had a small problem with a very minor leak at the drain plug. The mechanic suggested either tapping the drain plug (how do they do that?) or a new oil pan (about 300 bucks with labor as they have to move the headers/exhausts...)

Or you can use a little teflon tape around the drain plug to help seal better. Well for 20,000 miles that solution worked and it costs nothing....

however, yesterday I changed my oil and notice some two very very small slivers of metal...like the size of a small staple (except it was curved....like threads).
It looks like my drain plug or the housing threads have started to strip. The plug still turned...again I used a small amount of teflon tape.....I rode the bike for 1 hour at about 80 mph and went up to 120...then let bike sit and get nice and hot for a spell....guess what...? NO LEAKs....

but at some point (when riding season is over) I'd like to fix this.....should I get a new drain pan installed or is there another solution that is reliable. don't want to lose my oil 400 miles from home....

 

[ks-waterbug]

Go to the parts store and get an oversized plug.....

 

[big coop]

Like Waterbug said get a oversized plug and New Crush Washers, Problem fixed.

 

[The Big Red One]

(babuski @ Sep. 17 2007,10:09) okay boys and girls....last year I had a small problem with a very minor leak at the drain plug.  The mechanic suggested either tapping the drain plug (how do they do that?) or a new oil pan (about 300 bucks with labor as they have to move the headers/exhausts...)

Or you can use a little teflon tape around the drain plug to help seal better.  Well for 20,000 miles that solution worked and it costs nothing....

however, yesterday I changed my oil and notice some two very very small slivers of metal...like the size of a small staple (except it was curved....like threads).
It looks like my drain plug or the housing threads have started to strip.  The plug still turned...again I used a small amount of teflon tape.....I rode the bike for 1 hour at about 80 mph and went up to 120...then let bike sit and get nice and hot for a spell....guess what...?  NO LEAKs....

but at some point (when riding season is over) I'd like to fix this.....should I get a new drain pan installed or is there another solution that is reliable.  don't want to lose my oil 400 miles from home....

First thing is ALWAYS use a torque wrench for the drain plugs  

You can get a tap and die set...grease the end of the tap to collect metal shavings....then run it through the threads to clean them up. That might be enough if you torque it to specs. But for extra safety (which I would do) is to insert a heli-coil in the hole. And of course a new washer. Although I just re-use the washers on both my bikes, and with always torqueing them to specs have no leaks  

 

[HillbillyTom]

(The Big Red One @ Sep. 17 2007,16:27) First thing is ALWAYS use a torque wrench for the drain plugs  

And what might the torque spec be? I don't have a service manual yet and the owners manual says "tighten drain bolt securly with a wrench" no torque spec. They give one for the filter (14.5 lb ft) but nothing for the drain bolt.

 

[Dakkine2]

Oil Drain Plug 16.5 lb ft.

 

[GoldenChild]

Get a oversize plug and put it in there?No you don't....You get another pan or take that one off and have it helicoiled....if you found 2 slivers how man went into the motor,you wanna guess?fix it right and save yourself a headache....one tiny sliver thru a major artery of your motor is like putting air in your arm with a needle,when will it get to your heart?

 

[The Big Red One]

(Dakkine2 @ Sep. 17 2007,14:50) Oil Drain Plug 16.5 lb ft.

Yep thats it and not a bit more  

There's a free service manual for download somewhere on this board...I have it and its been invalueable

 

[HillbillyTom]

(Dakkine2 @ Sep. 17 2007,16:50) Oil Drain Plug 16.5 lb ft.

Thank you sir. I like torque specs. Even though I've been messing with bikes for a few years now, aluminum threads are still kinda creepy to me.

 

[Gunnybusa]

Oil pan $128
Plug $3.50
Washer $0.99

Doing the job right Priceless !

 

[mountainmotor]

Another opinion even though a heli-coil would work well .

There are Threadserts and Keenserts . I like how the Keensert type locks into the aluminum with pins that drive into the soft aluminum . These types will never back out with the bolt . If you go that way use Locktite as a threading lube + doubling as a sealant on the OD of the Keensert .

Pulling the oil pan is easy and while in there you could clean the oil pick up screen thats probably has some small amount of machining swarf in it from the original build and other small particulates from this n that . My Crystal Ball says the coolant needs serviced while there removing the exhaust.

Part of an winter afternoon , a cheap tap , Keensert + pan gasket =  good  as new repair and getting to know underneath you bike  

 

[babuski]

okay.....some of you mentioned heli coil....

I've done some reading...there is a controversy over helicoils and their effectiveness.....a few sites suggest using a "timesert" instead ...that they are more reliable and not prone to coming loose or leaking....

any experts in this area.....btw this is scaring me enough to just go with a news oil drain pan.....then I won't worry about it. with one of these fix it gadgets....everytime I crank the throttle I will wonder if my oil will be springing a leak.....

any more input....?

 

[Gunnybusa]

(babuski @ Sep. 18 2007,08:36) okay.....some of you mentioned heli coil....

I've done some reading...there is a controversy over helicoils and their effectiveness.....a few sites suggest using a "timesert" instead ...that they are more reliable and not prone to coming loose or leaking....

any experts in this area.....btw this is scaring me enough to just go with a news oil drain pan.....then I won't worry about it.  with one of these fix it gadgets....everytime I crank the throttle I will wonder if my oil will be springing a leak.....

any more input....?

I would do the labor for free if you were close to me, it's not that hard of a job.

 

[Glyn]

As long as the Heli Coil or thread insert are done correctly, they would be stronger than the original steel into aluminum setup that comes from the factory. Be very sure that no stray pieces of material are left in the pan. I think it would be worthwhile to remove the pan if possible to perform the repair. Of course, then the only difference is the price of the replacement pan itself.

 

[Gunnybusa]

Gyln you from Long Island?

 

[mountainmotor]

(babuski @ Sep. 18 2007,13:36)  with one of these fix it gadgets....everytime I crank the throttle I will wonder if my oil will be springing a leak.....



any more input....?

Yep . Read my post above .

GE engines that power a very stealthy military airplane have Keenserts , Threadserts and even Helicoils in them after time mandated MOH's .

There's no gadgetry in the excellent repairs allowed in Military Technical Orders .

At 16.5 ft lbs of torque that drain bolt is not holding anything together . Just tight enough to stretch the threads enough to hold it'self in .

 

[babuski]

okay....well I have put about 100 miles on the bike since the oil change...

gone thru all gears, took her to 130 mph...let her idle and get really hot and then shut her down in the cool air we've had in chicago.....NO LEAKs after 100 miles.....

I would like to do the repair but am wondering if it can be held off a few weeks because then riding season is over for the most part and I don't mind losing the bike to the shop for a day or two....

i check the drain plug for leaks several times a day...and will do another 100 miles of riding today.....I think a couple hundred miles in all sorts of conditions with no leaks is a decent indicator...yes?

 

[Glyn]

(Gunnybusa @ Sep. 18 2007,11:43) Gyln you from Long Island?

Yes Gunny, I am.

 

[Glyn]

(babuski @ Sep. 18 2007,13) okay....well I have put about 100 miles on the bike since the oil change...

gone thru all gears, took her to 130 mph...let her idle and get really hot and then shut her down in the cool air we've had in chicago.....NO LEAKs after 100 miles.....

I would like to do the repair but am wondering if it can be held off a few weeks because then riding season is over for the most part and I don't mind losing the bike to the shop for a day or two....

i check the drain plug for leaks several times a day...and will do another 100 miles of riding today.....I think a couple hundred miles in all sorts of conditions with no leaks is a decent indicator...yes?

You could probably get the rest of the riding season out of it, just keep a good eye on it.

 

[Gunnybusa]

(Glyn @ Sep. 18 2007,11:06)

(Gunnybusa @ Sep. 18 2007,11:43) Gyln you from Long Island?

Yes Gunny, I am.

I had to google Lawn Guyland