Helicoil Thread Repair....Input please

[babuski]

Been having some very minor problems with slight oil leaks from my drain plug after the last two oil changes. Prior 6 changes...no problem. Dealer says my threads are a little screwed up (probably my fault as I wrenched the drain plug down tight to prevent any leakage).

He put some teflon tape around drain bolt as a temp fix but says I may want to go with a helicoil thread repair. I could also do a new drain pan...but that would be some bucks and some labor as you have to remove pipes..

what do you folks think? Any experience with helicoil thread repair? You get to use the same size drain plug when its done>

are they reliable? Help please

 

[Devil Dog]

Been having some very minor problems with slight oil leaks from my drain plug after the last two oil changes. Prior 6 changes...no problem.   Dealer says my threads are a little screwed up (probably my fault as I wrenched the drain plug down tight to prevent any leakage).

He put some teflon tape around drain bolt as a temp fix but says I may want to go with a helicoil thread repair.  I could also do a new drain pan...but that would be some bucks and some labor as you have to remove pipes..

what do you folks think?  Any experience with helicoil thread repair? You get to use the same size drain plug when its done>

are they reliable?   Help please

I've done a few but never on an oil drain plug. They work really well..... In the end you do in fact use the same oil plug so long as you get the right Helicoil. If you do go this route....May I suggest that you replace the plug as well, just in case the threads on it are a little messed up.

 

[BentValve]

They work well but for something like an oil drain plug , not IMO.

Get a new pan...for furture reference it dont take much to get the plug tight...use a short
handled ratchet and 2-3 fingers if you feel you cannot judge the tightness. Technically
your supposed to put in a new crush washer after every oil change.

 

[FloydV]

Been having some very minor problems with slight oil leaks from my drain plug after the last two oil changes. Prior 6 changes...no problem. Dealer says my threads are a little screwed up (probably my fault as I wrenched the drain plug down tight to prevent any leakage).

He put some teflon tape around drain bolt as a temp fix but says I may want to go with a helicoil thread repair. I could also do a new drain pan...but that would be some bucks and some labor as you have to remove pipes..

what do you folks think? Any experience with helicoil thread repair? You get to use the same size drain plug when its done>

are they reliable? Help please

I've done a few but never on an oil drain plug. They work really well..... In the end you do in fact use the same oil plug so long as you get the right Helicoil. If you do go this route....May I suggest that you replace the plug as well, just in case the threads on it are a little messed up.

Explain what a helicoil is, please. I have an absolute gift for stripping things, my favorite being steel into aluminum.



<!--EDIT|FAVahalik
Reason for Edit: None given...|1124584122 -->

 

[Red05]

A helicoil is basically a sleeve which is threaded internally and externally, so the hole is drilled and tapped to fit the outside threads of the helicoil, using threadlocker to keep it in. The drain plug, in this case, fits the inside threads.

 

[fatlad03]

hi
I had mine done by the shop and that was 2 years ago and about 7-9 oil changes and no problems at all since, i'm just more carefull on tightening the bolt up, DO IT no worries
dave:O

 

[FloydV]

A helicoil is basically a sleeve which is threaded internally and externally, so the hole is drilled and tapped to fit the outside threads of the helicoil, using  threadlocker to keep it in.  The drain plug, in this case, fits the inside threads.

Thanks. Something good to know when you feel that sickening turn past too tight.

 

[FL Knifemaker]

I've used Helicoils for amost 30 years in manufacturing. I even new their plant manager in CT!!!

First let me say they are are not a solid sleave type insert. They are a specially made COILED insert the must be installed with a special tool. Hence the name heliCOIL!

They work great if installed properly. The threaded hole will actually be stronger and wear longer than the plain aluminum. I use helicoil inserts in all my aluminum CNC fixguring for my knifemaking just for that reason. It's much cheaper than making steel fixturing. If you building a motor, it's common to put them in all the threaded holes in aluminum.

Buy the kit, FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS and you should be good for the life of the bike.

 

[Turbo-Torch]

I personally don't like the Helicoil brand inserts. I've used them on the spark holes in the aluminum heads on my Corvair and they just plain never worked. They would either strip out or end up backing out when the plug was removed.

There is another type on the market that uses a solid insert. After the whole is tapped, you screw in the insert with strong bond Locktight applied to the threads. Once in place there is a tool you place over the top of the insert and hit with a hammer. It expands the top and permanently locks the insert in place.

It'll never come out and you'll never have to worry about stripped threads again...imo everything made of aluminum should come this way from the factory.

Napa sells these kits is many different sizes and they were just a few $$ more than the Helicoil brand.

 

[MET]

Been having some very minor problems with slight oil leaks from my drain plug after the last two oil changes. Prior 6 changes...no problem. Dealer says my threads are a little screwed up (probably my fault as I wrenched the drain plug down tight to prevent any leakage).

He put some teflon tape around drain bolt as a temp fix but says I may want to go with a helicoil thread repair. I could also do a new drain pan...but that would be some bucks and some labor as you have to remove pipes..

what do you folks think? Any experience with helicoil thread repair? You get to use the same size drain plug when its done>

are they reliable? Help please

I looked at doing a self taping drain plug a while back. A plug that you never have to unsrew. I thought i was going to need it, but turns out that the tape or sealant each oil change was more then safe enoug for 10,000 mile or more.

 

[FloydV]

There is another type on the market that uses a solid insert. After the whole is tapped, you screw in the insert with strong bond Locktight applied to the threads. Once in place there is a tool you place over the top of the insert and hit with a hammer. It expands the top and permanently locks the insert in place.

Good to know.

 

[macbusa]

in the mean time go get a torque wrench.........

 

[MoosesBusa]

Don't go through all the work and expense. Keep using teflon tape. It costs $0.99 for a 1/2" X 520" long roll. Just keep it off of the first 1 1/2 threads and you'll never have a problem. three or four wraps of the threads will suffice. Oh, and put the gorilla arm way when tightening the plug!

 

[BentValve]

They work well but for something like an oil drain plug , not IMO.

Get a new pan...for furture reference it dont take much to get the plug tight...use a short
handled ratchet and 2-3 fingers if you feel you cannot judge the tightness.  Technically
your supposed to put in a new crush washer after every oil change.

I hate to quote myself but I need to....guess what happened to my high and mighty ass. Yep, stripped out my own oil pan, on my 8th oil change...this actually happened over a week ago and its already fixed but it was a fcking pain.

Had I used a crush washer every change and/or a torque wrench this could have been avoided.

After doing a little research I pulled the pan and installed a Recoil brand insert, its better than stock now that it has hardened steel threads. The kit was about $75 ..I could have just bought another pan but why? The aluminum is just too soft and I do my oil changes hot which dont help.

From now on I will be torquing down my drain plug and everything else where a toruqe spec is given.


So to answer the question from experience now...yes a Helicoil/Recoil kit will work perfectly.

Anyone need their pan repaired/strengthened? Shoot me a PM.

 

[FJRider]

Question; if you go the helicoil route (which I assume requires drilling out the original threaded hole), does the shop take the pan off to do this? Reason I ask is, if they don't take it off, do you have to worry about aluminum metal shavings up in the pan from the drilling? And if they do take the pan off, why not just install a new pan?

I got that "uneasy feeling" I might have over-torqued my drain plug too

when I did my first oil change, but I used a new crush washer, so I might have just been feeling the new washer crushing, and not the threads stripping (hopefully). No oil leaks, so I seem to be ok so far. I plan to be real careful with the next change though. I think the drain plug torque is only 16 ft lbs? Is that correct?

 

[BentValve]

I pulled my pan to be on the safe side... its a pain since you gotta take off the exhaust.

It could be avoided by putting some grease on the tap and running a gallon of oil or so thru the engine afterwards....even still
though why take a chance?

Why not install a new pan? Because its threads are aluminum too,....a Recoil or Helicoil kit will change it to hardened steel threads.

16.5lbs/198 inch lbs. is the torque spec.



<!--EDIT|BentValve
Reason for Edit: None given...|1126451690 -->